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Old 08-01-2020, 10:45 PM   #1
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Help needed R&Ring my DPs axles

I spent several hours today trying to remove my right axle to stop a leak draining the axle housing. The GD tow truck driver replaced my axles without sealing them up with the gaskets that were to be there or at least using Permatex Gasket Maker.
I'm also pretty sure he used the same electric impact wrench to tighten the 12 axle nuts on the cone washers on the 1/2"-20 bolts. The torques were all over the place and some were definitely tighter than the 55-71 lbs. ft. called for in the Dana Spicer Service Manual. He also replaced my split cone washers which are easy to remove with the right tool(which I have) with solid cone washers which are very difficult to remove, especially when overtightened.
I eventually got 11 of the 12 cone washers off using the hammer and needle nose vise grip pliers shown below. The last one is driven so deep and tight I can't budge it with the hammer and I don't have much meat to grab with the pliers. It's the one at the 4 O'clock position.
Can anyone give me any guidance or tips on how to get the last one off the bolt? I have considered heating the axle end next to the hole where the washer is stuck but don't have any idea if that will work. I'm also a little concerned about catching nearby oil on fire.
I have to move the coach around noon tomorrow so I sure could use some timely help.
TIA!Click image for larger version

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Old 08-01-2020, 11:03 PM   #2
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On semi’s I would pound on the center of the axle shaft with a sledge hammer. That would pop them loose. Going to be hard to do with the wheels on. Maybe use a heavy steel shaft like a battering ram. Be careful not to hit the other studs sticking out.
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Old 08-02-2020, 12:02 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truckerdave View Post
On semi’s I would pound on the center of the axle shaft with a sledge hammer. That would pop them loose. Going to be hard to do with the wheels on. Maybe use a heavy steel shaft like a battering ram. Be careful not to hit the other studs sticking out.
I banged the axle end pretty hard as you can see from the pic. That's how I got most of them to pop out enough to grab them. I couldn't get the head of the hammer flat on the axle because of the hub shroud or whatever it's called.
Do you think a 1/2" drive extension could work as a not so heavy steel shaft?
Maybe I can hook the bottom of the axle cap with the Wonder Bar and pull it out enough to be able to grab more of the cone with the vice grips.
Do I need to buy all new cone washers or will the old ones be servicible?
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Old 08-02-2020, 05:16 AM   #4
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I agree need to "shock" the axle to get it to pop out till you can get a good bite on it.

If your willing to sacrifice the 1/2" extension put it on there and hit it hard with the hand sledge in the picture, you may have to work the edges some. It will probably take some force to knock it loose. It obviously needs a gasket so it has to come off. Tow truck driver should have pulled the drive shaft not the axles...

Cant tell from the picture and I don't remember when I pulled mine last time but any chance you could get a slide hammer on the lip of the axle? That may knock it loose.
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Old 08-02-2020, 05:39 AM   #5
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Can you get 2 nuts on the stud, lock them together, and back the stud out ?
You may have to slice a nut thin.

Desperate option #2 , if a well placed hit with a sledge hammer doesn't do it, is to pull the other side and drive it out with a long rod.

That's how we got the snapped axles out.

Another thought, start it up and shift between foward and reverse a few times. That may loosen it up.
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Old 08-02-2020, 07:47 AM   #6
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Might need to take off at least the outside wheel and use a 8 pound hammer. If using a steel shaft then something with some weight to it. Flat end and ten pounds or so.
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Old 08-02-2020, 08:04 AM   #7
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Another thought, start it up and shift between foward and reverse a few times. That may loosen it up.

This may be the best suggestion.
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Old 08-02-2020, 10:02 AM   #8
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Thanks for the great ideas guys. Some I can use but I'm handicapped a bit by a shortage of knowledge, experience, a suitable place to work, time and tools. I had to give up almost all my big or power tools when we downsized to go full time. I kinda painted myself into a corner by putting this job off for too long.
We have to move from one unlevel dirt campsite to another unlevel dirt campsite in a few hours in the same small crowded city-owned campground so I will have to put it all back together for the short move. I'm pinning my hopes on twinboat's suggestion of slightly rocking the coach.
What do you guys think of putting an oversized deep socket on an extension around the stud and washer and smacking it with the hammer if rocking it doesn't work? Also, what about tightening two nuts on the stud and smacking it to loosen the washer? Will the stud move in a little?
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Old 08-02-2020, 11:40 AM   #9
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Make sure the axle doesn’t have any tension forward or reverse it will bind and hitting it does no good . It needs to be free
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Old 08-02-2020, 01:32 PM   #10
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Do you have a drive line brake on the chassis ?

Chock the wheels and release it if you do. Otherwise it can roll away on you when you get the axle out.

As mentioned above, there may be tension on that last stud.
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Old 08-02-2020, 01:47 PM   #11
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I've NEVER seen anyone attempting to remove an axle shaft without first taking off the shiny hubcap and the hub cover.

There is just not enough room to work with it. Once the shiny stuff is off a person can take an air hammer (short shaft) and place in on the back side of the axle flange and give it a few whacks. It that is not possible, someone already suggested a slide hammer with the hook placed on the back side of the axle flange.

99% of the time, back in the day, we just used a good sledge hammer and popped the center of the axle flange which would bounce back off of the hub, thus loosening all of the wedges.

Good luck and keep us informed of your progress.
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Old 08-02-2020, 03:21 PM   #12
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Take at least the outside wheel off and give yourself some working room.
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Old 08-02-2020, 05:12 PM   #13
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Twinboat's suggestion seconded by jacwjames to gently rock the coach was just the ticket. I moved the coach forward one or two inches then back about the same. When I went back to see the result that cone washer practically jumped off the stud. What a relief!
Thanks to all of you who responded with suggestions. I learned a lot from y'all about different ways to skin this cat. I hope I can remember them if the easy way doesn't work next time.
The main reason I can't pull the outside wheel for better access is the nuts are torqued to 450-500 lbs. ft. and I don't have the expensive torque wrench or even a torque multiplier to get them off and back on again with the proper torque. I also don't have an 8 1/2' long rod to come at it from the other side. Anyway, I expect to run into the same problem when I tackle the other side. I hope not but if Plan A doesn't work I now know about a Plan B and C.
I have somewhat of a reputation for being an avid conservationist. I try my best to conserve my energy but some might call me lazy. I also try to conserve my money but some might call me cheap.
Someone once told me I was so cheap that if I squeezed a nickel any harder I could make the buffalo poop.
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Old 08-02-2020, 07:12 PM   #14
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If it is not too late put never seeze on the cones before you put them back together. You will thank me later.
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