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Monkey Run · 12-26-2022, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1972VWbus

The key to JB Weld working long term is preparation. Clean the surface/s thoroughly then use some acetone and wipe the surface. Mix equal amounts of JB Weld and apply to surface/s. Then allow to dry for 15+ hours before returning to service.

JB Weld will have no issue breaking down with hot/cold cycles and/or chemicals such as coolant, oil, fuel etc. Just be sure it has dried 15+ hours prior to return to service.

I use it on lead casting plugs on Weber/Dell carbs and works very well.

The repair will definitely be untouched for awhile. My concern is the pressure from the cooling system. That is most likely where the prep part is the most important.

Unplanned Tourist · 12-26-2022, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monkey Run

The repair will definitely be untouched for awhile. My concern is the pressure from the cooling system. That is most likely where the prep part is the most important.

Just be sure to clean down to bare, shiny metal. Nothing sticks to rust very well.

A good 2 part epoxy like JB Weld will get you home. The new ones are very good, but watch out for it slumping down. You may have to do a second application to get good strength.

Monkey Run · 05-06-2023, 09:00 AM

Firstly, I wish to thank everyone for their assistance with this issue.

After visiting the local Freightliner dealer and them refusing to work on the freeze plug, I had not choice but to make a temporary repair until the rig was back home in my shop. I used a dremmel tool to clean the plug area, then wiped it down with acetone. I then applied a coat of original JB Weld.

After lightly sanding, I applied a second coat. A few days later, I again sanded and covered the area with a fiberglass mat soaked with epoxy resin.

Thankfully, we made it home without an issue, the repair is still as good as new. Not being one to take a chance of being stranded, I also carried a rubber expansion plug made for freeze plug replacement. If the repair blew out, I had the tools ready to clean and insert that into the head.

Unplanned Tourist · 05-06-2023, 09:20 AM

Glad it worked out for you. I suspect that the fiberglass was not really needed. That JB Weld is pretty strong stuff, but more is better, right.

Monkey Run · 05-06-2023, 06:17 PM

You're most likely correct, but the thought of it blowing out was
haunting me. That anal thing I suppose.

Ray,IN · 05-06-2023, 07:52 PM

You mentioned the exhaust manifold. My original was a 2-piece manifold, it broke in 3 places and leaked in 4.
The Cummins replacement is also 2-piece but it is much heaver and reinforced. The exhaust manifold carries all the weight of the turbo and piping is why they break.
The imitation manifolds sold through various sources are no better than the original 1999 OEM.

Too bad your leaking freeze plug is barely accessable. I have used a slide-hammer to pull freeze plugs. Good Luck!

Monkey Run · 05-07-2023, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

You mentioned the exhaust manifold. My original was a 2-piece manifold, it broke in 3 places and leaked in 4.
The Cummins replacement is also 2-piece but it is much heaver and reinforced. The exhaust manifold carries all the weight of the turbo and piping is why they break.
The imitation manifolds sold through various sources are no better than the original 1999 OEM.

Too bad your leaking freeze plug is barely accessable. I have used a slide-hammer to pull freeze plugs. Good Luck!

I should be able to use something similar to the slide hammer, depending upon how far under the floor I'm able to reach. As for the exhaust manifold, I purchased the new two piece unit directly from CUMMINS.