Community Forums

Mixmoses · 02-12-2017, 04:46 PM

Need some ideas.

I was replacing the original shocks on my 04 fleetwood southwind (workhorse chassis) today.
Got the 2 in the back done, and the passenger side done. Drivers side bottom bolt is so rusted that it took more than 30 minutes of torching the nut just to get it off.

The bolt, however, is so rusted that nothing could even move it. We torched it, hit it with an impact wrench and even banged it with a sledgehammer. It just won't budge. Hit it so hard that the end is actually damaged and couldn't get the bolt back on.

Going to try a heavier hammer, but other than that I'm at a loss. How can I get this bolt out without damaging in the sleeve it goes through on the leaf springs?

Thanks.

hivoltage98 · 02-12-2017, 04:48 PM

PB blaster every day for 2 weeks. I had the same on my Honda CR-V. I used blaster on it every day and it finally let loose.

Mixmoses · 02-12-2017, 04:53 PM

Thanks. I'll try that.

High Ball · 02-12-2017, 04:58 PM

spray diesel fuel on it. Blaster is good but eveytime i used diesel on something rusted it came off. unseized pistons a few times and work great

FIRE UP · 02-12-2017, 07:09 PM

Ok Gang,
You're all gonna laugh at me and this link after you see it. I have no idea if this little shenanigan works or not. I have no one to ask. It was sent to me by a friend in my email. See what you think.
Scott

Removing Rusted Nuts With a Candle

Kiawah · 02-13-2017, 06:18 AM

I like that candle video, I'll have to try it sometime.

What I've learned to do with shocks, is before I try loosening the mounting bolts, I always wd40 the exposed threads of the bolt, and then tighten another new nut down on the threads and back off. What this effectively does is to clear out the rust from the exposed threads. Spray some more wd40 to flush the threads, now remove the old mounting nut.

If you don't do that, as you start to unscrew the old nut it will run into the rust on the bolt shaft and eventually binds up. On some shocks that for instance has the nut on the end of the shock shaft (which can spin), is that you end up having to put vice grips on the shock shaft, which never hold better than the rusted shaft nut on the end.

oldeguy · 02-13-2017, 06:36 AM

Heat, PB Blast, candle wax...but it needs to be hotter than a lighter on a lug nut, and impact wrench, cycle between remove and tightening. It will come off....or it will break the bolt.

dms · 02-13-2017, 06:41 AM

PB Blaster, let sit for a day. Then, heat bolt with micro-torch and melt bees wax into it. Will come right off.

YC1 · 02-13-2017, 06:54 AM

If you have room, use a Dremel tool with a cutoff blade. Cut a slit down the side and pry it open with a screwdriver. If you can cut down more than one side it will come off in pieces.

dabrooks · 02-13-2017, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

If you have room, use a Dremel tool with a cutoff blade. Cut a slit down the side and pry it open with a screwdriver. If you can cut down more than one side it will come off in pieces.

I don't think it is the nut he is having a problem with. If I am reading correctly the nut is off and the bolt is stuck in the sleeve of the spring.

JoeSR · 02-13-2017, 08:27 AM

Mixmoses,

I had the exact same problem you had (except that mine was on the passenger side) and tried the same techniques. I got the nut off, but the bolt was rusted tight.

My solution was to get a better impact wrench. My air source was limited. So, I went with a battery powered one from Milwaukee.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2763-20

This battery one is rated at 1,100 ft-lbs of reverse torque. My air tool was rated at 600 ft-lbs, if I could supply the air long enough to break the bolt free.

Mixmoses · 02-13-2017, 05:15 PM

Dabrooks is correct. The bolt is stuck in the sleeve. I just ordered a new bolt from a workhorse parts distributor and will try hitting it with Blaster and a strong impact wrench.

Will try the battery powered one that was recommended.

I was doing some additional research and heard that CRC Freeze Off might work better than Blaster. Anyone have any experience with this?

F4Gary · 02-13-2017, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mixmoses

Dabrooks is correct. The bolt is stuck in the sleeve. I just ordered a new bolt from a workhorse parts distributor and will try hitting it with Blaster and a strong impact wrench.

Will try the battery powered one that was recommended.

I was doing some additional research and heard that CRC Freeze Off might work better than Blaster. Anyone have any experience with this?

I have a can of the Freeze Off, but have never had a need to use it yet. Give it a try. Freeze the crap out of it.

NITEHAWK · 02-13-2017, 05:37 PM

Center punch, then drill as large a hole in the bolt as possible. Then just use some percussion persuasion from the side. The bolt will snap off.
I used to do Chrysler products shocks somewhat like that. I would centerpunch the crappy top nut, then drill a hole thru the nut and the top of the shock, then whack with a hammer. Snapped right off.