How to level on steep grade?

[JACKAL0PE]

I want to park my (future) Itasca in front of my house for a couple of days to clean, work on and upgrade. If you were looking at the front of my house from the street, the street grade on the right is probably 2-3 feet higher than on the left. So the rig will be parked in a very nose-down attitude.

Is there any safe way to raise it, at least some of that? All the "ramps" I see just raise them 4-7". I don't see any sort of ramp commercially available to get it up in the air higher than that. I have however, seen several instances where people have built their own ramps, but nothing higher than about 7".

I realize that 2-3' is probably too much to try and achieve, but even 1'-18" would be a big help.

Any ideas?

[al2ride]

That's a lot. I would just work on it the way it is, or you could try something similar to my avatar.

[NLOVNIT]

I think 2-3ft is too much to compensate for on the nose & I wouldn't want to try to come close to even 12" off the ground in the front. Any chance you can get it in your driveway, off the street?

Lori-

[JACKAL0PE]

LOL! Oh, my driveway would be even worse. It goes straight up, plus it's too short.

No, it's pretty much the street or nothing. But I've had a class A out there in the past w/o any sort of ramp and it's just very difficult to get anything done with it at that sort of angle.

I'm trying to figure out why a bunch of 2x12's stacked up wouldn't work...at least to get it up about a foot. Do you really think that would be dangerous?

[jmckinley]

This is hard to explain in words but I'll try.

You can make a really strong ramp by cutting 2x12s at an angle and nailing them together. It will be really strong because you're standing the boards up vertically. They will be heavy but will never break.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by jmckinley

This is hard to explain in words but I'll try.

You can make a really strong ramp by cutting 2x12s at an angle and nailing them together. It will be really strong because you're standing the boards up vertically. They will be heavy but will never break.

Without a doubt, a good answer. This is what LARGE TIMBER is for. All you need is to cruise on down to your local lumber yard and ask for some 4"x12" beam to be cut to your needed lengths etc. Some additional 4"x12"x12" blocks, strategically placed under the beams will support monstrosity weight. We call it "cribbing" in the fire department. Even 4"x4" x 12", stacked in a log cabin style can support tons of weight.

Now, of course, before actually driving up on this, just make sure all is stable and won't move. That's easy enough to do by just leveling the dirt on which the lumber will be setting on. You don't have level the entire driveway, just where the pads will be siting.

And, if and when you actually drive on it, have a spotter, like the wife or whoever, using known hand signals or, even just outside the drivers window to assist you in guidance. Been doing it for years at camp sites and haven't fallen off yet.
Scott

[JACKAL0PE]

Thanks a ton. Now I just need to find a lumber yard. That kind of stuff isn't available at the local Home Depot.

But sounds like a winner. Much appreciated.

[TdogKing]

I think your asking for trouble. I worked 37 years in Freeway Bridge construction and cribbed up many Cranes, Concrete Pumps etc. the thing you need to think about is how much damage will occur if the blocking slides, breaks etc. Your blocking will need to safely support 25% of your MH's weight with safety factor added in. That's my opinion, I wouldn't do it.

[gruelens]

I personally would "clean, work on, and upgrade" with the coach on a grade and just leave it un-level. Just turn off refrigerator, leave slides retracted and chock wheels. Leveling on extreme slope will create a very large step into the coach, force the back end into the ground, and there is always the possibility of mishap with very tall cribbing. For a "couple of days" I would not go to the hassle and expense of leveling it on that extreme slope.

[JACKAL0PE]

I appreciate all the sensible responses here. After reading them, I'm forced to reluctantly agree that this one just won't work. I'd hoped that someone else had done something like this or a commercial ramp might be available, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

One question though, can I not open the slides? Will the slope cause a problem there too? I know about the refrigerator, but that's not a problem for what I'm trying to do.

[NLOVNIT]

RV should be level to deploy slides. With as much slope as you're describing, I wouldn't extend them, IMO.

Lori-

[Superslif]

If one of the blocks "slides", your asking for trouble. I just don't see how your going to have 18" high blocks have them not slide on the pavement below.

[TQ60]

Can you back in?

If so think about this.

Make ramps from solid material and they can be steep and limited only by clearance.

Place rubber on the bottom.

Also locate some belting material from industrial rubber supply...conveyer belt.

Next get steel cable with hooks and hardware.

The belt has hooks as do the ramps.

You back in 2 foot short and place belting behind rear tires then back over them.

Now place ramps in front of front wheels and connect to belting under rears with cable.

Blocks in front of rears and end of ramps with spotter so you do not over drive the ramps as that would get ugly.

Then spacers under jacks for a little more lift.


Gravity helps as you are going down hill and the ramps are held to rears and rubber bottoms prevent sliding too.

Special note!!! Do not back up steep ramps as the transmission may not like it...a friend blew out their gm based one doing that.

[Ernie Ekberg]

I'd find a vacant parking lot, if it was me. and never raise your rear wheels off the ground. what kind of coach?