HWH 610 series low voltage to 8500

[dwwells]

First off, long time follower from afar, first time poster. I have a 2001 Tiffin Allegro Bus with HWH 610 series with AP1079 controller. My control panel appears to work but no jack activity. It's been about 10 months since I know they for sure worked. I have downloaded the troubleshooting guide and going through it.
On part 3b, I haven't tested each sensing pin as I am not sure it relates to my problem, I unplug and panel lights go blank, plug in, the lights work
3c, Not in Park brake light is lit but I think that has always been that way?
So I skipped 3d&e as not in park brake has always been lit
4a-jacks not working at all
4b- Low battery light is not on, I have installed a new 40 amp fuse, Terminal 1 of Master Relay has 11.3-5 volts (8500 line),Terminal 2 has 14.4, terminal 3 has 14.4 (have lithium batteries). Term 1 having less that 12volts is a problem, put tracer on line and got signal at control unit, tested master relay pin at controller and only getting 11.5 volts

Troubleshooter points to a controller problem but I wanted to verify with a second opinion to make sure I am following correct steps. Because the 610 was under the battery bay, It had gotten some rust so I replaced the Master Relay just to be safe.

Do I need to focus on the voltage issue or should I head a different direction?
Thanks for accepting to the board.

[Ray,IN]

I have the 610 central-ground leveling system.(all my ground wires are behind the motor, on one stud) There are two solenoids strapped to the motor. Does one have the usual click when the button is pressed?
If I remember correctly the solenoid on the left is for slide room movement, the right one is for the leveling jack, each one activates the main solenoid on top of the motor while energizing the appropriate hydraulic solenoids.
Yes HWH requires good voltage to operate properly, drive engine should be running or MH on shore power.


Have you checked the 5 fuses on the end of the control box yet?
There are 2 40A fuses near the motor/tank assy.

Also,try unplugging and reattaching the plugs on both control panel and control box.
If all that checks out good, I'd look hard at that "not in park" situation.

[ moderator edit]

[THenne1713]

re: 3c= PARKING BRAKE, NEEDS TO BE SET, (many/most) jack/stabilizer systems auto RETRACT if IGN=ON and PARKING BRAKE= OFF.... (Suspect YOU ARE thinking P-R-N-D-L)? ...but that is NOT what they are saying... they are talking BRAKE. Good Luck

[dwwells]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Thanks for the welcome and your response



I have the 610 central-ground leveling system.(all my ground wires are behind the motor, on one stud) There are two solenoids strapped to the motor. Does one have the usual click when the button is pressed?Will have to verify on this one as most of the time I am the only one troubleshooting
If I remember correctly the solenoid on the left is for slide room movement, the right one is for the leveling jack, each one activates the main solenoid on top of the motor while energizing the appropriate hydraulic solenoids.
Yes HWH requires good voltage to operate properly, drive engine should be running or MH on shore power.
Mine is a little different, I have a master relay and pump relay attached to the motor. My slides use power gear which is driven from a 12V DC gearmotor

Have you checked the 5 fuses on the end of the control box yet?
All fuses appear ok, I did replace 5amp pump fuse on the control box just to be sure.
There are 2 40A fuses near the motor/tank assy.Only found one 40amp and replaced with auto reset circuit breaker, maybe only one since slides controlled separately

Also,try unplugging and reattaching the plugs on both control panel and control box.Need to try this
If all that checks out good, I'd look hard at that "not in park" situation.


Is this the 610 service manual you have?

the link appears to be someones blog, I am using the manual from HWH website for Computer Controlled 610 series leveling system.

[dwwells]

I have uploaded some photos. With ignition active, I press HYD once, these are the lights, transmission in "N" and "Park Break" pulled up. Just wanted to clarify in case I'm not interpreting correctly. Appears that the "Not in Park/Brake" light remains lit when I release the brake (push down Park Break) and Drive or Reverse taking foot off the break.

[eddndee]

Yours may be different but my HWH controller won’t allow me to do anything until the “parking brake not set” light goes off.

[Ray,IN]

Aw shoot; I apologize for that wonky link. This is the correct link: https://hwhcorp.com/ml23521.pdf

[dwwells]

Sorry to just jump on and spit out my problems. I've been working through a lot of problems which comes with owning an RV as we all know. Because of COVID, we hunkered down at home and didn't travel in the RV at all.

At Christmas, we traveled from Dallas to Chattanooga, TN to visit our grandkids and daughter/husband. Almost to her house, I went too sharp on a left turn and my rear wheels went off the culvert and bottomed out and damaged the back rear cargo bays. Made it to the daughters ok. At that time our jacks worked fine.

Come back to Dallas, get insurance involved, get a collision service involved, weeks turn into months. While it was there they repaired/replaced cargo bays, had them replace carpet/time with vinyl, by the time that was all done we are into the summer.

House batteries are shot because they were poor plus they never keep the RV plugged into shore. Converted to lithium battery bank and changed out the Inverter/converter which I will post that experience in future post. Traveled to New Braunfels then to the coast where jacks never worked but the Genny started getting a low oil pressure light. Got back home replaced sensors, hoses, thermostat then the infamous overheat code 33. I have video, there is a code 33. That will be another story but now I'm tackling this jack issue.

Forgive me for the long post but I'm sure all the fellow RVer's know these joys we share working on the RV. Thanks All and I promise to provide more details on my exploits. Danny

[dwwells]

After some stupid and costly mistakes, I resolved my jack issues. Per HWH manual instruction and fellow members, I traced the Park (blue but was really black)9000 line from the control box up to the bottom of the dash floorboard where it was buried behind a wall and not connected. I then literally tore the dash apart and could not find where that wire plugged into anything. My Park light was lit on the message center(MC) so (stupidly) jumped the Park wire to the MC connector and tragically blew out the dash. Ended up shorting out the VDC board. After finding the VDC under the bed and $800 later I got the dash working again. Dug some more into the dash but had no luck identifying where that Park wire need to attach.

After doing some carpentry work to reinforce a poorly constructed dash frame, I decided to just bypass the Park break and ground the Park wire from the controller harness to the ground post(wires) on the controller. Not in Park light went off so I tried the jacks and magically they worked as desired. I know it's not the safest resolution, but I am not the original owners of this 2001 Allegro Bus and there have been multiple things added that I know are no longer used (old tow wiring/units, etc..) and need to be cleaned out but I hate to remove anything in fear that I will create a bigger headache.

By the way, while the dash was a part, I installed a new Planet Audio receiver with a 10" screen which allows me to attach my phone for maps, hands free calls, streaming music, etc.. I plan on taking her out for a spin this weekend to make sure I didn't inadvertently disable anything within the dash with all my rumbling around.
Thanks for all the input and assistance.