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Old 06-30-2017, 04:56 AM   #15
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Well after much reading I've decided to go with a ARP unit:
https://www.arprv.com/products.php#5-blower-fan

Scroll down on that page to item# 4:
#4 v3.1 ARP Fridge Protection Control with Fan Controller and 2 Fans

If you scroll down a little further on that page you'll see the fans that come with it
#5 Quiet High Performance Blower Fans

I will also be installing a circuit breaker that you'll see at the bottom the page
#9 Circuit Breaker (5 Amp)

This unit not only will have a blower at the top and bottom, but the ARP unit actually controls & protects the fridge better.

It was pricey but I'm going to give it a try.

Extra Notations:
After reading Old-Biscuits comment in Post# 11, I went on top of the roof and removed my fridge vent cover to actually examine how close the fridge was to the back wall. I thought is was 4" or so as you saw in my OP. But after closer examination it is indeed about an inch. So the fridge was properly installed however there is a little 3" or 4" open cavity at the very top of the fridge running the full length of the vent screen. When I install the top blower, I will make a baffle to close off that dead space area so hot air won't get trapped in there.

I did talk to Paul the owner about this ARP unit first and I was a little intimidated about how to wire it up. Still am a little. But with my N822 Norcold model having a newer, simpler wiring scheme he assured me it wasn't going to be much of a big deal. I probably will be talking to him one more time right before I install to firm up the steps I have to take. With the mounting of the fan up top, making a baffle for the top, redoing the screening on top of vent and doing the wiring below, I'm thinking it's going to take about 3 or 4 hours (for me) for this install, before I fire up the generator and test this all out.

Since I already have the fridge fix unit installed on the inside of the fridge and will have this unit installed on the back, I'm really anxious to see the results. BTW...my N822 Norcold model has not had any recalls so I don't have to take in account of any other fixes.

The ARP unit should be here on Monday and I will install it next week because we will finally be going FT in about 14 more days (getting down to the nitty-gritty) and this is one of the last things I'm addressing while I still have my shop to work on it. Once completed and tested, I'll report with an update.
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Old 06-30-2017, 05:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marjoa View Post

Well after much reading I've decided to go with a ARP unit:

https://www.arprv.com/products.php#5-blower-fan
A VERY good decision!

But I would go one step further and install their ARPrv control unit also.

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Old 06-30-2017, 10:13 AM   #17
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Martin, wise decision on the ARP control! One suggestion though. You can set the temp at which the cooling fans come on. I would set it to a lower temp, maybe even about 100 degrees, so you get the maximum cooling. I think it may default at 140 degrees. Mine did not operate efficiently at that setting!

It's really easy to install. Just check the colored wiring diagrams carefully. You won't have any problem! Paul is a great guy to work with!
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Old 06-30-2017, 02:16 PM   #18
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Martin, wise decision on the ARP control! One suggestion though. You can set the temp at which the cooling fans come on. I would set it to a lower temp, maybe even about 100 degrees, so you get the maximum cooling. I think it may default at 140 degrees. Mine did not operate efficiently at that setting!

It's really easy to install. Just check the colored wiring diagrams carefully. You won't have any problem! Paul is a great guy to work with!
Hey Joe,

That's good to know. I saw they had so software to really tweak this ARP unit for people who really want to toy with it but it only runs on PC's. I have Mac computers so it won't work. Besides I don't want all that control. This lowering temp tweaking it to 100 degrees, do you need software to do that or how is that exactly done? Is there a knob or a DIM switch or something?
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Old 06-30-2017, 04:57 PM   #19
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Hey Joe,

That's good to know. I saw they had so software to really tweak this ARP unit for people who really want to toy with it but it only runs on PC's. I have Mac computers so it won't work. Besides I don't want all that control. This lowering temp tweaking it to 100 degrees, do you need software to do that or how is that exactly done? Is there a knob or a DIM switch or something?

No, you do it right there on the ARP control using the pushbuttons and built-in display!

Just download the troubleshooting manual and it gives you the exact procedure. Very simple to do!
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Old 06-30-2017, 05:14 PM   #20
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No, you do it right there on the ARP control using the pushbuttons and built-in display!

Just download the troubleshooting manual and it gives you the exact procedure. Very simple to do!
OK, kewl. I'll download that.
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:09 AM   #21
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OK, kewl. I'll download that.

Just be sure to download the troubleshooting manual for the model you are getting! They have more than one manual!
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Old 07-01-2017, 11:31 PM   #22
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What is the max temp that the ARP shuts down the system and where do they want the sensor mounted? Thanks, Jim
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:18 AM   #23
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I thought about installing a fan but have not done it.
In case of a malfunction and fire, the fan would just fan the flames.
Not a good thing!
My n 822 norcold freezes the fridge compartment when set above 3. The freezer operates at about 12 degrees on setting 3.
Moving the thermistor doesn't get the freezer colder.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:55 AM   #24
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I thought about installing a fan but have not done it.
In case of a malfunction and fire, the fan would just fan the flames.
Not a good thing!
My n 822 norcold freezes the fridge compartment when set above 3. The freezer operates at about 12 degrees on setting 3.
Moving the thermistor doesn't get the freezer colder.


That's the whole point of the ARP. If the temperature gets too high it shuts down the entire fridge, fans and everything. And it does it at a much lower temperature than the Norcold recall device does. Ventilation in the back of the fridge is a good thing when it's operating properly.
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Old 07-03-2017, 10:41 AM   #25
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What is the max temp that the ARP shuts down the system and where do they want the sensor mounted? Thanks, Jim

Not sure what the shut-down temp is. The sensor mounts against the heater stack near the AC heating elements.
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Old 07-03-2017, 11:32 AM   #26
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I have a Dometic fridge in my Ford Fleetwood Flair. These things do not do as well in the summer as a household refrigerator at all. Living in Southern Nevada during the summer I knew my fridge would need a little extra help in the triple digit weather to help it run right. So I got a 12 Volt computer fan that was in really nice condition at the thrift store that came already attached to CPU cooling fins. A just switched the fan around so it will blow upward on the fridges cooling unit as it sits on the bottom of the cooling chimney. My RV already has a 12 volt DC accessory port where I can install add ons like a fridge fan, RV awning lighting, etc. so I just shut off all my power, I wired the fan in according to its respective polarity + - . Closed up the fridges back access after install, turned my inverter power back on. It works great. The fan runs all the time to keep the air moving in the back of the fridge. My fridge actually keeps ice cream frozen now and I can make ice again too. Woohoo!! It was a very simple, took me less than 20 minutes. A month later the computer fan is still humming as strong as ever in the back of fridge.

PLEASE NOTE: It is very important that you shut your RVs power completely off and make sure wiring is the correct polarity when doing an install. The 12 Volt wires on your DC side are extremely sensitive. So take every precaution to protect RVs inverter system and only turn the power back on once the install is complete. Also check the fan regularly after the install and keep it clean, keeping dust and debris out of it will make it last for years.
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Old 07-03-2017, 02:04 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by cimplexsound View Post
I have a Dometic fridge in my Ford Fleetwood Flair. These things do not do as well in the summer as a household refrigerator at all. Living in Southern Nevada during the summer I knew my fridge would need a little extra help in the triple digit weather to help it run right. So I got a 12 Volt computer fan that was in really nice condition at the thrift store that came already attached to CPU cooling fins. A just switched the fan around so it will blow upward on the fridges cooling unit as it sits on the bottom of the cooling chimney. My RV already has a 12 volt DC accessory port where I can install add ons like a fridge fan, RV awning lighting, etc. so I just shut off all my power, I wired the fan in according to its respective polarity + - . Closed up the fridges back access after install, turned my inverter power back on. It works great. The fan runs all the time to keep the air moving in the back of the fridge. My fridge actually keeps ice cream frozen now and I can make ice again too. Woohoo!! It was a very simple, took me less than 20 minutes. A month later the computer fan is still humming as strong as ever in the back of fridge.

PLEASE NOTE: It is very important that you shut your RVs power completely off and make sure wiring is the correct polarity when doing an install. The 12 Volt wires on your DC side are extremely sensitive. So take every precaution to protect RVs inverter system and only turn the power back on once the install is complete. Also check the fan regularly after the install and keep it clean, keeping dust and debris out of it will make it last for years.
Am I reading this correctly, that you closed up the vent holes on the outside access door? I've never heard of anyone doing this.

I'm thinking maybe you are just listing putting the access cover back on to complete the installation, right?
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