#long read warning. Sorry.
So. I have had the apparently not so unusual issue of no 12v power when I unplug from the pedestal and the generator didn't want to start.
This is a 30 amp 2000 Winnebago Minnie 27P and I have the wiring diagrams. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2000/133784.pdf
The other one I need to look at more closely is here: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2000/133781.pdf
Anyway, I set about solving my own problem and I got new GC2 coach batteries and built new battery cables for them. (I tested the gravity of the cells on the old marine batteries, and one of them had a bad cell. No great loss, as they were at least 7 years old.)
I know, building battery cables seems extreme, but I wanted a heavier gauge cable (2/0) and copper lugs.
I installed a new Powermax Boondock 4 stage converter because I did not want the old Magnetek single stage thing touching my new batteries.
For grins, I replaced the 12 v fuse block. The new one has it's own fuse protection, and that seemed like a better thing.
I had to install a new power outlet for the converter because the old magnetek didn't plug in. There was one of those fake receptacle boxes right there, so I converted it to a real one.
I was so happy. I was so proud. I did it myself. Everything worked!
for ONE TRIP. And then. Back to square one.
No 12v and no generator start.
So I had been suspecting for a while that the solenoid and BD under the step would soon need replacing. The posts and nuts were starting to look corroded.
I replaced the solenoid first. Picked up an Echelin ST80 at Napa and installed that. Nope. That didn't fix the problem.
It was really difficult to replace that because the bolts holding it on were so corroded. I had to break the bracket that supported it and dremel the bolts off. I had to do the same thing when I removed the BD, but then I also had to drill new holes because the old ones were NOT accessible from the back side to get a nut on them!
I had no reason not to believe that it wasn't the Intellitec thing at this point, and I called the Intellitec support guy, and he helped me troubleshoot it for sure. I got a reading of 12.77v on the coach battery side. I had a reading of 10.83v on the "generator" side (opposite side).
And there was a small <1v reading across those two posts. He said that meant I definitely had to replace the BD. So he shipped me a new one and I installed that today.
Anyway. Now I have 12.65v on the coach battery side. Initially I got 13.6 and then 15.1v on the "generator" side, and again a small <1v reading across those two posts.
When the old one was installed, the rocker switch on the wall still made it go CLUNK. This one doesn't even do that.
But here are the things that have me puzzled. The S and I posts on the front are supposed to have at least 11v to them and there is 0 on both of them. On the wiring diagram those go to a 9 pin connector somewhere, but I haven't been able to find it. Does anyone know where they actually go? On the wiring diagram these are circuits LG and LH. I did JUST notice that the little codes that they annotate on the second diagram are printed on the sheathing of the spaghetti wires, so I will have to go back and look at those again. I think the third skinny wire that goes to the 5 amp fuse operates the rocker switch on the wall. I am actually not convinced that the spade it is making contact with the fuse. I tried both new fuses and the old fuses from the old unit, because they were actually good, but the spade connection doesn't seem to fit well. Which might explain why I have no switching from the rocker switch.
Anyway, I'm real sorry to be so long winded but....does anyone think it seems likely or possible that I got a bad BD from Intellitec right out of the box? Before he sent me the new one he told me that I could troubleshoot it by putting the cables all one lug, but all of the lugs don't actually FIT on one post. He told me that a simple piece of #10 wire was not heavy enough to use as a jumper.