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Old 03-08-2021, 02:43 PM   #1
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Interior Cosmetic Upgrades

Hello DIYers:

My SO and I have been discussing ideas to upgrade the look and feel of my 1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow MH. Other than mechanicals, we have had to do absolutely nothing other than the usual maintenance to keep it in almost perfect condition.

One of the "easiest" and most cost effective things we can think of is to repaint the interior walls and cabinets. In looking at what we have to work with, I have noticed some things that I'm not sure how to deal with. For instance:

* The "wallpaper" appears to be some kind of vinyl adhered to the substrate. Should I expect to have to prime it prior to painting?

* The cabinets appear to be wood, as opposed to particle board or pressed corn cobs. I suspect semi-gloss interior latex should be sufficient, but is there any prep (other than de-greasing) going to be required?

* Is it typical to repaint the interior of the cabinets as well?

* We want to install a "peel and stick" type of tile on the walls adjacent to the range, and as a backsplash behind the sink. Should I have to remove the vinyl applied to the wallboard before installing the tile to make sure it will stick?

* What other time bombs can we expect to run into? Any advice (other than it will take twice as long and cost twice as much)?

Looking forward to hearing YOUR advice and experience.
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Old 03-08-2021, 03:24 PM   #2
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Often the cabinet doors are wood, but the frames are paper wrapped, which can still be painted. I think you're on the right path, just good prep, or it will peel right off. You'll have to paint over the wallpaper/vinyl, as it is a one piece wall system that comes pre papered.

I think you'll have a big job ahead of you and painting the inside of little cabinets will be a pain. I would just be careful painting the frame and leave the interiors alone.
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Old 03-08-2021, 04:06 PM   #3
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You only want to do this once and you want to be pleased with the results.

1. Clean, clean, clean
2. Prep, prep, prep
3. Dont go cheap
4. Take your time, dont get in a hurry

Clean, clean and more cleaning before even buying primer and paint.

Go to the box store and buy TSP or TSP substitute and give everything you want to paint two good washes or as many as it takes. Almost 30 years of use deposits a lot of grime.

Make any repairs first. If the cabinet faces are wrapped make sure nothing needs to be glued back down. Prime any discoloration or stains.

Tape and drop cloths. Dont go cheap on tape, buy the good 3M blue painters tape. You spend an extra $20 but its well worth the expense.

Once the inside of the cabinets are clean, decide if they need to be painted. Its a lot of work, I wouldnt do it unless it is necessary.

Buy the best paint you can afford. Behr Marquee starts at $40 a gallon but is the best paint you will find in that price range that is one coat coverage.

I like foam rollers, no hair in the finished product. I also only paint a few hours at a time. I get tired and then get sloppy.

Good luck
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Old 03-08-2021, 04:16 PM   #4
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My answers in bold below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimontheroad View Post
Hello DIYers:


* The "wallpaper" appears to be some kind of vinyl adhered to the substrate. Should I expect to have to prime it prior to painting?
We didn't have to prime ours, but it took two coats of paint for good coverage.


* The cabinets appear to be wood, as opposed to particle board or pressed corn cobs. I suspect semi-gloss interior latex should be sufficient, but is there any prep (other than de-greasing) going to be required?
Painting the cabinets will NOT be easy, so remove that thought from your mind. Lots to dismantle, remove handles and hinges, that sort of thing. You're going to need to prime the wood because of the finish. I believe there is specific primer for covering varnish and making it ready for latex paint. Though that may just be a marketing gimmick and any ol' primer will do.


* Is it typical to repaint the interior of the cabinets as well?
You can get by with just painting the door and drawer fronts, and the face boards (what the drawers and doors close to). Painting the inside isn't required, but if you're going with white it will look better/more consistent for the inside to be white.


* We want to install a "peel and stick" type of tile on the walls adjacent to the range, and as a backsplash behind the sink. Should I have to remove the vinyl applied to the wallboard before installing the tile to make sure it will stick?
Nope, not as long as it's holding like it should. We put this on ours as back splash, this job really is fairly easy. Nothing is square so you really have to pay attention to the cuts, but other than that it's an easy job that really changes the look of things.
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Old 03-13-2021, 04:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimontheroad View Post
Hello DIYers:

My SO and I have been discussing ideas to upgrade the look and feel of my 1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow MH. Other than mechanicals, we have had to do absolutely nothing other than the usual maintenance to keep it in almost perfect condition.

One of the "easiest" and most cost effective things we can think of is to repaint the interior walls and cabinets. In looking at what we have to work with, I have noticed some things that I'm not sure how to deal with. For instance:

* The "wallpaper" appears to be some kind of vinyl adhered to the substrate. Should I expect to have to prime it prior to painting?
Clean well, then KILZ the walls, lightly sand (like maybe 220) and then apply final coats of paint. It will take at least 2 coats probably three. I used oil based paint. RV space is very confined and experiences big temp swings, steam from showers and sometimes condensation in the winter. Oil Based paint is much more robust and hardy than water based paints.

* The cabinets appear to be wood, as opposed to particle board or pressed corn cobs. I suspect semi-gloss interior latex should be sufficient, but is there any prep (other than de-greasing) going to be required?
Same as the walls. I would skip painting the interior of cabinets

* Is it typical to repaint the interior of the cabinets as well?
NO

* We want to install a "peel and stick" type of tile on the walls adjacent to the range, and as a backsplash behind the sink. Should I have to remove the vinyl applied to the wallboard before installing the tile to make sure it will stick?
NO

* What other time bombs can we expect to run into? Any advice (other than it will take twice as long and cost twice as much)?
Lots of dust, taping off, fumes and you'll need a lot of ventilation along with patience. Take your time and do it right ONCE. Cover EVERYTHING....all furniture, floor, counter tops, windows etc. Make sure you have some paint left over and seal it well for touch ups in the future. Definitely use a real good premium paint. I highly suggest using a top of the line Sherman Williams paint. And good brushes too. You have one shot at this. The prep you do and the products you use will determine the outcome. One last thing I'll suggest on the paint is...use a semi-gloss or egg shell finish. It will hide a multitude of sins. If you use a high gloss paint it will show EVERY imperfection.

Looking forward to hearing YOUR advice and experience.
Answers in red above:
I remodeled my bathroom using the above methods. I also changed out my bathroom wall paper border by going right over the old one. You can't even tell. When all the painting was done I decorated it in a Beach/Sea Shore scene. I did all this in a camp ground during a 3 week winter stay. No garage or workshop but I do have a lot of experience in the past of doing these types of jobs in houses and know how to improvise.

And lastly...whenever you do things like this all the other old stuff will stick out like sore thumb. Like old faucet fixtures, blinds or shades and so forth. So whatever you budget to do this job add more money to accommodate these other upgrades too. You're going to want to them too. Trust me. When you're finished, it will be a whole new coach.

Good luck my friend.
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Old 03-15-2021, 08:07 PM   #6
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If you are painting the cabinets, get some Flow Trol and add as directed. It will come out slick and smooth, just like it was sprayed on by a pro. I use it when I use a sprayer too.
You can get it at Lowes.
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Old 03-15-2021, 08:13 PM   #7
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For painting cabinets I have become a big fan of Cabinet Coat ( forget the mfg and out oftown). I ordered thru Home Depot delivered to store as the store didn't stock it.
It recommends using it as a primer and top coat. Its a water based urethane paint so very durable and easy to use.
I liked the durability so well I started using it for all woodwork trim including doors, in the S&B home
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