Junk Oil Filters

[THenne1713]

:-)

[THenne1713]

I sold auto & motorcycle parts 7-yrs, saw one filter blown (Non-Fram) (well, really just bulged, as shut down by Oper during test; it was a fresh rebuilt, bushing installed incorrectly with oil hole facing wrong and thus no oil passage; NOT the fault of the filter

[THenne1713]

Oil Analysis? YUP, ran em 17+ years, "all normal range"= OK; then saw them condemn 3-yo Emergency Gens worth $700k (suspect a bad analysis interpretation); then saw them raise a yellow flag on another 20yo GEN, tore it down, only to find all bearings/ bushings "Like new", even w/ micrometer... big waste of time/ $$; hmmmm ..LOST all CONFIDENCE in "oil analysis" after 30+yrs paying for them.

[botiemad]

Originally Posted by falconview

I'm sure I ruined a engine in 100,000 miles with a high flow air filter like a K&N. Sure sounded great when I hammered the peddle but at a cost.

I have always used a K&Ntype filter, and have always sent oil samples to the lab for analysis. The tests have always come back with positive comments.

You cannot argue against passion using any kinds of facts or repeatable facts. It just doesnt work.

[Ohio Snake]

Originally Posted by THenne1713

Oil Analysis? YUP, ran em 17+ years, "all normal range"= OK; then saw them condemn 3-yo Emergency Gens worth $700k (suspect a bad analysis interpretation); then saw them raise a yellow flag on another 20yo GEN, tore it down, only to find all bearings/ bushings "Like new", even w/ micrometer... big waste of time/ $$; hmmmm ..LOST all CONFIDENCE in "oil analysis" after 30+yrs paying for them.

Hmmm. Im not familiar with Commercial Emergency Generators or servicing of them.
Been using oil analysis ($15) on auto/RV gasoline engines for quite some time and find them useful, convenient and inexpensive to interpret oil and filter efficiency/contaminants in your oil.
Back to junk oil filter topic.

[Ohio Snake]

Originally Posted by falconview

I'm sure I ruined a engine in 100,000 miles with a high flow air filter like a K&N. Sure sounded great when I hammered the peddle but at a cost.

Yep....me to. I do run a high flow conical oiled filter on a Shelby Mustang, but change the oil and filter quite often based on oil analysis.

[Yosemite77]

Originally Posted by stepside454

People we’ll argue with passion over anything here .

No they won’t! [emoji3]

[Ohio Snake]

Originally Posted by Yosemite77

No they won’t! [emoji3]

Believe it or not, this thread length and topic are nothing compared to a similar topic on another forum called SVT Performance. The topic someone started was

“Best oil and filter”

I believe that thread went for over 600 replies, lots of passionate opinion, name calling and heated debate. This thread seems to be more “civilized”.

[aether_one]

Originally Posted by F4Gary

Fact...the guy compared a bottom of the line Fram to top of the line other brands.

Eggzactly!

[BSHGTO]

Originally Posted by Ohio Snake

Hmmm. Im not familiar with Commercial Emergency Generators or servicing of them.
Been using oil analysis ($15) on auto/RV gasoline engines for quite some time and find them useful, convenient and inexpensive to interpret oil and filter efficiency/contaminants in your oil.
Back to junk oil filter topic.

Oil analysis is a waste, if you find trace metals, contaminates what are you going to do about it anyway. Just use the best oil you can afford and change as recommended if you`er going to loose and engine it will be from material/workmanship so the analysis won`t help you at all. When is the last time you heard of a failure from using Walmarts oil or Fram filter?
I had an oil analysis done and it said I could extend my oil change intervals based on findings, asked dealer they said do it and you void your warranty on a $15,000 or more engine change if it comes apart even if it`s their fault.
Watch the video of which there are hundreds just like it. To each his own.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAPjd8z6GzA

[Yosemite77]

It amazes me how passionate some people are about oil filters. If you don’t like it, don’t use it. Having said that, the original video bothers me greatly. I don’t care about his conclusion about Fram filters. What irked me was his testing methods.

How can you compare the length of filter material when the filters don’t all fit the same vehicle? (I checked cross-references)

Were the filters all roughly the same age? The reason I question this was the rust, the outdated packaging on the Fram, and the older style Purolator filter.

Rather than trying to compare a low-end Fram to mid and upper grade filters, I would like to see all the grades of Fram oil filters compared against each other.

What’s saddest are the comments thanking the guy who made the video, when his review is so flawed that the conclusion can’t be considered valid. There are much, much, better reviews out there.

[BigSkyCountr]

We all learn from mistakes or by experience. I mentioned earlier seeing two Fram filters literally strip the threads and blow off race engines. That should have been enough of a warning for me but I figured my engines probably didn't develop that kind of pressure so I continued to use them until, I installed two Fram filters, in one day, on one of my vehicles and both leaked from the crimped seam. The first was bad enough, but the auto parts store said they had never seen that and gave me another. Same problem. Pulled that one off and never used Fram again. Funny side note was I had been using Fram filters on my 2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport with the 4.0 inline 6. Everytime I would start it, it would knock and rattle for a few seconds then be fine. When I changed to better filters with anti- backflow preventers that WORKED no starting knocks or rattles like I had with Fram. And these were the tough guard Fram filters.

I had used Fram filters for decades. All through the 70's, 80's and 90's thinking I was using a great filter. But the last 10 years plus, in fact starting with a 2001 Saleen Mustang, everything has used synthetic oil. Most vehicles do now. So using a filter that costs less than 1 quart of oil just doesn't make sense.

I also got 5 free oil changes when I bought a new Chrysler 300C in 2006. Now I normally don't let anyone change my oil or work on my vehicles once I get them home, but they were close and I thought it was silly to not avail myself of the 5 free oil changes. By number 4, I was enjoying it so much I thought I may never change my oil again. But then number the day after number 5 I noticed oil on the garage floor as I was backing out to go to work. I pulled back in up on ramps, climbed underneath to find the oil filter so loose I could spin it off with two fingers. Grabbed a filter socket, tightened it correctly, check oil level and shot off to work, 45 miles away. Never let anyone change my oil again. I learned from experience. Change your own oil and don't use Fram oil filters. Now there are also two types of people. Those that learn from others mistakes and those that have to touch the flame themselves to see if it's really hot. Which are you?

[ka5gyo]

Think about this.
About 15 years ago, oil filter disposal was an issue in the oil field. At that time I experimentally run 15- 7042 Waukesha, 1000 horsepower engines, pumping natural gas. WITHOUT OIL FILTERS. These engines had a 25 micron stainless mesh, cleanable add-on filter, and a spinner II, centrifuge by-pass, I installed. I would clean both about every three months.
All I ever found was carbon caked up in the centrifuge. I run these 15 engines. 24 hours a day , 365 days a year for about three years, (over 131,000 hours run-time). I did extensive oil testing and had no failures. Extensive oil testing revealed that the centrifuge was removing some of the oil additives, shortening oil runtime. After this disposal issues were resolved, I promoted on up, and they went back to the old way of doing things. Personally I run Wix / Napa in my coach, Fram in cars and trucks. As long as the filter you are using does not come apart, internally. don't overthink it.

[Ohio Snake]

Originally Posted by BSHGTO

Oil analysis is a waste, if you find trace metals, contaminates what are you going to do about it anyway. Just use the best oil you can afford and change as recommended if you going to loose and engine it will be from material/workmanship so the analysis won`t help you at all. When is the last time you heard of a failure from using Walmarts oil or Fram filter?

I had an oil analysis done and it said I could extend my oil change intervals based on findings, asked dealer they said do it and you void your warranty on a $15,000 or more engine change if it comes apart even if it`s their fault.

Watch the video of which there are hundreds just like it. To each his own.

First of all, one should not be using the information in an analysis as a prevention from engine, oil or filter failure. If I find a high amount ( or abnormal) of contaminates and trace metals in the oil, try a better oil brand or type and/or filter.

BTW, some synthetic oils come from the same base stock manufactured by single petroleum company such as Exxon. Mobile 1 and Amsoil, as an example, use the same class synthetic base stock. The difference is the proprietary detergents in the base stock. Gasoline brands are similar to this example.

Analysis should be used to determine the efficiency of the filter ( both air and oil) and oil used in your vehicle. Different oils and filters can show an increase or decrease in that efficiency based on the analysis. A high efficient filter and proprietary detergents by your choice of oil may help extend they life of your engine and/or some components.

I never use the analysis as a guide to extend my oil change intervals beyond the recommended manufacturers change interval. I think 10,000 miles for a change interval ( manufacture recommendation) on my 2018 vehicle is plenty.