Kwikee steps extension issue

[Fredk20716]

Hello All.

There are so many kwikee step forums I got exhausted trying to find an answer, so here we go. My step (it's a single) only extends about 3/4 to 7/8 out requiring me to pull them to full extension.

Is there an adjustment or could they possibly be bent and need to be straightened? I've lubricated them nearly every trip that does not help. The bottom image is my step.

TIA

[Topperace]

Did you to the routine maintenance lube on them, with the dry silicone lube they recommend - even the motor? Try that and see if extends and shuts properly. i do this once a month at the recommendation of others with these, and havn’t had them stick yet.

[Papa Foxtrot]

The little motors are actually Ford electric window motors that kwikee used. They're really not designed to be out in the open like they are in this application. If the lube service Topperace recommended doesn't do the trick and you're handy, they're easy to disassemble. Buff up the armature where the brushes sit, clean the old grease out of the gears and replace with fresh grease. Also, check the electric connections - especially clean up the ground connection(I like to put a little OxGard between the frame and the ring terminal). The last time that I replaced one, I just ordered a generic off of ebay; some here recommend that you get one in a Lippert box, but you'll pay quite a premium for the privilege.

[4x4van]

Kwikee steps are designed to stop when they encounter resistance. Make sure that your step is not bent/tweaked, and lube the joints every so often.

[AlanTerry]

Contact Lippert customer service 432-547-7378 they bought Kwikee a couple of years ago.

[FIRE UP]

Fred,
First off, it doesn't matter WHAT kind of lube you use. ANYTHING will work as long as you lube them every so often. There's a bunch of pivot points and one long shaft. ANY lube will work. Sooooo many worry sooooo much about what to use. Our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP now has 116,000 on the clock and I've lubed them with everything known to man and they're still working.

As for the reason they're not full traveling all the way out, well, as has been stated, when those little motors encounter resistance, that's what triggers them to stop, not any switch of some type. Sooooo, with that being said, what you need to do is, be very, VERY careful while laying TO THE SIDE of those steps, have someone open the door and watch them extend.

See EXACTLY WHERE they stop. If as you say, they are not fully extended, something is causing them to stop due to the motor encountering resistance. If you find there's no APPARENT reason, no physical obstruction, then you either have a weak motor and the last few inches is enough resistance to stop that motor or, somethings maybe tweaked like one of the parallel side arms or , the motor/gearbox curved arm is in trouble somehow or something.

Here's another option. Most of those motor/gearbox connecting arms are connected to the main pivot shaft via a small 1/4" diameter pin. That pin is held in place with either a cotter pin or a spring clip. Here's what you need to disconnect that main pivot arm from the curved motor connecting arm. Get something to put under those steps when they're fully extended. Either a small bottle jack, a "step saver" which is nothing more than a small screw jack. Anything to support those steps while fully extended.

Now, when that's done, you can now remove the cotter pin or spring clip and then remove that 1/4" pin. Now your motor/gearbox drive is disconnected from the steps. Now you can remove what you've placed under them and carefully allow them to fall back to the neutral point. They should, at this point, easily swing all the way IN or, all the way OUT, WITHOUT any form of resistance. You will not be forcing the motor since it's disconnected. But those steps should move very freely all the way in and out. If not, find out why?

Then, if you've found no particular problem with the actual steps by moving them all the way in and all the way out, now it's time to look at the motor operation. With the steps again propped up and out of the way, you can have a helper open and close the door, while you watch that gearbox arm rotate a full 180 degrees from the fully closed position to the fully open position. It should rotate that full amount, without hesitation. And it should not stop until that arm hits resistance or a stop, at either end.

That's how it all should work. You may, or may not just have a weak motor. I just replaced 20 year old step motor about 2-3 days ago for a different problem than you're having. Good luck and please report back on your findings so that others may learn.
Scott

[SavnTheWales]

This may help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktk5oKHgzdo

[Ray,IN]

Kwikee Products Service Training Manual This covers all models and has an excellent troubleshooting section.
The controller senses increasing motor amp-draw and turns off the motor at both ends of travel. Something is creating motor resistance mid-way out.

[Fredk20716]

Blown fuse not under dash not as schemastic states but under hood. Switch now working. Thx all.

[Fredk20716]

Disregard blown fuse msg posted on wrong thread