Leveling the rig

[HarryStone]

Trying to ascertain the 'proper' level on my MH. I don't trust the level programmed into the LCI leveling system, so I wanted to redo it. Problem is, I only have a couple flat surfaces inside to use a level on, the floor, and I can only get a torpedo level side to side, but front to rear as long a level as I want. I could also use the kitchen counter, but I'm not convinced it's perfectly level with the chassis base. I can get the rig front to rear level, according to a level on the floor, and a level on the horizontal surfaces on the outside of the rig as well. Side to side is a different animal. With my digital/electronic torpedo level on the floor beside the entrance steps, I get the level to "0". But, when I use a longer level on the outside, flat against the walls, looking vertical, it shows out of level, in every place I check it. What do I trust? How do I get it perfectly level, side to side, and where should I put the level? Floor is out of the question with a 2 or 4 foot level, because the floor transitions from tile to carpet.

[JohnLoves2Sk]

What part do you want level? What's most noticeable to you (Or your wife) - kitchen counter, floor, or table?
That's where you put your level. I do the countertop because it's convenient.

To check level on a 2' floor with a 4' level, put a 2x4 at either edge of the floor, put your long level across them. With the elevation, the extra length of level will simply be elevated over the carpet.

I carry an 8" level. Close enough.

[rk911]

IMO you're working way too hard. as long as the occupants of the RV are comfy and there is no sensation of walking up or downhill or leaning left or right then you should be good to go. after deploying the jacks i use a simple round bubble level if i feel we're off kilter. another check i use is the swinging door to the bathroom. i open it avoit half-way and then sww if it swings one way or the other.

[HarryStone]

Originally Posted by rk911

IMO you're working way too hard. as long as the occupants of the RV are comfy and there is no sensation of walking up or downhill or leaning left or right then you should be good to go. after deploying the jacks i use a simple round bubble level if i feel we're off kilter. another check i use is the swinging door to the bathroom. i open it avoit half-way and then sww if it swings one way or the other.

I just tried that, and the door swings all the way open, so that tells me it's not level. Sorry, it's the OCD in me that wants it perfect. I can put a level on the fridge, and it's out. Should I level it so the fridge is perfectly plumb? The bubble is out about the same as on the outside of the rig. I know it's minor, but it's not like I don't have the time.

[rk911]

i have a bit of 'Monk' in me, too so i get it but i still think you're working too hard. i do carry half-a-dozen 18" square x 1.5" thick plywood blocks to give the jacks a bit of extra reach but have only needed them a few times in 5-seasons. if you have an RV fridge i"d start there and get that as close to level as possible.

[Ray,IN]

Download a level app for your phone, put phone on the bottom of your freezer compartment, that is the important appliance, level to that.
Before messing with the computer leveling box adjustments, download the instruction manual. It really make the process much easier and more accurate.
I just went through this with my HWH system. I had it all screwed up until I downloaded the instruction sheet, then I was finished in 10 minutes, with the system back to normal operation.

[rk911]

or a simple bulls-eye surface level. a few $ at camping supply outlets, home depot, etc. as lomg as most of the bubble is in the bulls-eye you're good to go. downloading the instructions for re-calibrating the jacks is excellent advice.

[HarryStone]

Originally Posted by rk911

or a simple bulls-eye surface level. a few $ at camping supply outlets, home depot, etc. as lomg as most of the bubble is in the bulls-eye you're good to go. downloading the instructions for re-calibrating the jacks is excellent advice.

Thanks. I have a level app on my phone, but I also have a digital torpedo level that gives me tenths of a degree. I have the original manual for the leveling jacks as well. I did the relevel, but then started looking at things. Too many inputs I guess. I suppose I'll plumb the fridge and leave it at that.

[rk911]

Originally Posted by HarryStone

Thanks. I have a level app on my phone, but I also have a digital torpedo level that gives me tenths of a degree. I have the original manual for the leveling jacks as well. I did the relevel, but then started looking at things. Too many inputs I guess. I suppose I'll plumb the fridge and leave it at that.

good luck. but try and relax and enjoy the RV experience.

[Ray,IN]

The level requirement for an absorption refrigerator is 3° side-to-side, 6° front-to-back, as standing in front of the fridge. So you can see the validity of the statement:"if you are comfortable living in the RV it is likely level enough".

[veraken]

With the kitchen in my slideout, after auto leveling the MH, and putting out the slide, my DW complains that the countertop and cooktop are not level. Says it makes it hard for her to cook, so I manually re-level a little, using a torpedo level on the countertop, to make the DW happy. Happy wife, happy life !!

[Teamfoxy]

Since the fridge is the most critical, I used a 4 ft level on the front and side to get it perfectly level. Then I went to other things like the counter tops and floor as confirmation. I mounted two graduated bubble levels, one side to side and one front to back within site of the drivers seat so that I know the starting point and whether I will need any blocks under the jacks.
I always control the jacks manually as it is more gentle on everything and I wind up lower with the wheels still on the ground in most cases, although sometimes I choose to be up to a degree off level front to back so that I don't need to put blocks under the wheels. I've noticed that we can be up to a half a degree off and the LCI light will be on.

[NITEHAWK]

I leveled with my HWH system first so the bathroom door stays open where I stop it (so the cat can go by when the bathroom is occupied) and then I permanently mounted a bubble level (front to back) on my left window ledge by the driver's seat. I then mounted another bubble crossways on the dash.
These levels are mounted so the bubbles are dead center and then glued in place.
I have then gone back and, just to satisfy my curiosity, checked various surfaces to see how level they are. Fridge, stove, counter, table, floor, etc.
All came in within acceptable tolerance.
Then I checked by using the HWH autolevel feature. If It didn't place my two bubble levels on center I then recalibrated the HWH level sensor until bubbles were on center when autoleveling.

[OceanTom]

Lots of good ideas here. You could also put the 4’ level on the wall - vertical.