Originally Posted by RVforTwo
So the RV I just bought had a brand new (8 mo. old) house refridgerator. I wasn't the correct size though, too small so I was firring in the gaps around it. Upon attaching the main brace and on the very last screw and I poked a hole in a refridgerant line.
Now it's no good for me anymore!
Maybe that's a good thing as I was thinking on changing it out to a real RV fridge anyway.
So, should I stick with the 120V models or is it better to get one that is 12V? I have both sources of electricity in the compartment as well as propane.
In all reality, none of us can answer this truthfully for you. Yes, we can all put in our two cents on what works for us, but, what we don't know so far is, what kind of camping you do, hookups or no hook ups or, somewhere in between? An RV fridge has benefits.
1. The normal RV (absorbtion) fridge made for the last several years has been what's called a "Two-way" style. That is, it has two different methods of operating, to keep things cool. One is propane and the other is 120VAC. The old "Three way" also used 12VDC but, most of those went away a long, long time ago. So, the one benefit of using propane is that you can *Boon dock* or, otherwise known as REMOTE camp, any where, without the need for external power (120VAC) to rely on to keep your food cold.
2. But, that same fridge can also operate on 120VAC if, IF you have hookups or some form of shore power.
But, if one want's to call this a pit fall, the primary one I can think of is, an RV type fridge needs to be very, very close to level to work correctly and not damage any internal parts. Leveling a coach is no big deal for most of us. Others don't care how unlevel they are.
But, as the weather warms up a bit, some RV fridges tend to loose efficiency. That is, they don't cool as well in warmer, around 95-100 degree weather. Some are more efficient than others.
Where as, if you go again with a residential type fridge, you don't have to be near as level for it. You do however, have to realize that, since there is no other way for that fridge to operate other than 120VAC, you have to supply that 120VAC constantly. And that means, if you boon dock or remote camp, you'll need the ability for providing the 120VAC through an inverter which, needs good battery power to sustain power to that inverter. Solar does help in this matter. Yes, you can also run a generator to supply the 120VAC but, no one likes to hear those run forever and ever. At least no one I know likes to hear them run forever.
If you don't remote or boon dock and are primarily at camps/RV parks with shore power (hook ups), then you're good to go. And finally, a standard residential fridge will still be efficient in cooling when the temps rise to and above 100 degrees. And, your ICE CREAM will be ROCK HARD, that's important to us!
So, again, you need to determine how your RV will be used, and where, to help determine what kind of fridge you will replace your present one with. If you go with another residential model, do your research dilligently. That is, find out if it will work on an inverter and, make sure it states whether or not it can work on an MSW or PSW inverter. Some will, some wont. I found out the hard way. Also, find out what the side, top and back clearances are required for any fridge you may think about.