No 12 Volt to WFCO 45 amp (New)

[EarleH]

Having a problem with no 12 volt from battery(new) to the WFCO center. This is an84 Brougham. !2 volt on AC voltagis fine. I'm wondering if I can't just run 12volt battery cable from the battery to the distribution center? RV repair man seems more knowledgeable about pumps and vents. Earle

[okcnewbie]

When was the last time your battery/converter worked? What have you done since it stopped working? Are you sure there isn't a cutoff switch that isolates the battery?

Reading through this installation may help you understand what's going on;

http://www.bestconverter.com/Magnetek-Upgrade_ep_26-1.html

[twinboat]

There should be a fuse or circuit breaker near the battery end of the wire that goes to the converter.

It may not be right on the battery but look at the first junction of the positive battery cable.

[Old-Biscuit]

Battery POS Cable to WFCO 'in-line' fuse blown
OR
WFCO Reverse Polarity Fuses (on WFCO) Blown (whenever I see NEW battery installation Reverse Fuses suspect----only takes momentary wrong battery cable connection to blow them)


Which WFCO model -----8900 Series etc?

[EarleH]

The distribution center is brand new. I have crawled under an there is a solenoid, there is a black box about 3X6, tha has three cables post, 2 black and one red. Look, in another month I'll be 90 and trying to crawl around under the motorhome, is near impossible. I can't see that running a cable straight would do anything different except losing the protection against crossing leads. What am I ti do when RV Repair are part changers, no knowledge. That is why I'm here. Earle

[cavie]

You are describing your problem backwards. You don't get power from your battery TO the converter. You provide power from the converter TO the battery. There are 2 sets of fuses involved in this process. Also a 15 amp 120 volt AC circuit breaker to feed the converter. The converter MAKES 12 volts.

Check for 120 volts to the converter. Next check the 2 or 3 30/40 amp, 12 volt "reverse polarity fuses" on the converter or fuse block. Next check for an INLINE resetable fuse within 6' of the battery. Little square box with a button on it. Some are bigger with a red handle.

Don't just run a new wire. Fix the problem.

[EarleH]

It was my impression that when plugged into 120, the converter furnished 12 volts to the motor home, while at the same time charging the battery. when running on the road (no shore 120 volts) the motor home lights water pump, vent fans etc, receive their 12volts from the battery, while the batteries are being charged by the vehicle's alternator . I doubt that is the most efficient, but I believe this is the basic idea. Earle

[cavie]

Originally Posted by EarleH

It was my impression that when plugged into 120, the converter furnished 12 volts to the motor home, while at the same time charging the battery. when running on the road (no shore 120 volts) the motor home lights water pump, vent fans etc, receive their 12volts from the battery, while the batteries are being charged by the vehicle's alternator . I doubt that is the most efficient, but I believe this is the basic idea. Earle

Yep, that's how it works.

[okcnewbie]

Originally Posted by EarleH

The distribution center is brand new. I have crawled under an there is a solenoid, there is a black box about 3X6, tha has three cables post, 2 black and one red. Look, in another month I'll be 90 and trying to crawl around under the motorhome, is near impossible. I can't see that running a cable straight would do anything different except losing the protection against crossing leads. What am I ti do when RV Repair are part changers, no knowledge. That is why I'm here. Earle

Earle, where are you located? Are you just trying to get this ready for camping or is this more of an emergency? Maybe someone close can help out?

[EarleH]

I like to say we live in a hole! Hemphill, Tx. 35 miles from to what you would call a city. 55 miles from Lufkin. Being a Hi Fi analog fan. Problem when equipment breaks down, the closest repair facilities is Houston. The cost of shipping and repair, you might just as well look for another. The motor home also has become an obsession with me. I'll probably never drive it. It has set idle since 2006, surprisingly in good shape Lost home of forty years by Katrina,moved here. Lost wife last August. If I don't have a reason to get out of bedn (motor home, music) I'll go nuts. Look, I am not complaining . I have had as good a life as I could have ask. So when Iam forced go simple in repairs, it has to do with lack of wiring diagrams, repair facilities, lack of individuals w ith knowledge 36 yr old motor home. Things havee changed. Earle

[Gary RVRoamer]

At the risk of seeming like a smartass, why not consult the installation instructions for the WFCO? Something isn't hooked up right or the fuses that Old Biscuit mentioned are blown. You or the tech needs to verify the wiring and get it right. (My money is on the fuses).



Basically the same cable that charges the battery serves to bring battery power back into the power center when no 120vac is active.



Is it an 8900 series model, e.g. 8945?


https://www.lancecamper.com/docs/man...s%20Manual.pdf



Videos: https://wfcoelectronics.com/installa...cement-videos/

[EarleH]

It was installed by RV repairman, who unfortunately walked with it, and says he don't know what happen to them. Yes it is 8945. I wrote WFCO with kn results. It seems they rely on their videos. I'm sure that a black aprox 3x6 with three post, two have blck cables, one red. Thereb is also a solenoid which I believe is for emergency start. I have the front on a jack and jack stands, but that still makes it hard to scoot around, plus rocky surface. Believe me even 4years ago I would been under with my test light and would have found where the 12volt ended . but with soi many cables all covered its job for a younger man. Earle