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AnimalCop · 07-13-2014, 09:55 PM

93 Winn Vectra 37ft Gas Coleman Basement Air

I was on the way to CG this weekend, drove up with Gen on and AC going as my Dash AC not working at the moment. Got to CG switched over to 50 amp. AC working well, the only issue as I posted in another thread, was not being able to regulate the cold air well. If I use Auto Fan, it would kick on every 60 seconds for 60 seconds then shut off, then go back on 60 sec. Seemed like the Thermostat temp had nothing to do with when it came on. Also, in Auto when it was not blowing I am hearing a noise coming from the basement air outside, sort of like a buzzing or light hum.

OK so this is the question now, not related to above.

On the drive home I again drove back with Gen on Basement are on, worked fine. I backed the MH into a parking spot in a parking lot of Pizza Hut .
Then I started to hear the Gen running high rpm then low then high. Then the Gen shut off. I turned it back on and then I noticed one of the 2 Switches INSIDE at the Breaker flipped off and I was not getting cold air anymore. It was blowing fine, the Fan was working, just no cold air.
I got home and plugged it in and Fan still blows great, but no cold air. So in my opinion its not a power issue. Just seemed weird the Gen started running funky prior to the cold AC crapped out.

Any Ideas out there in IRV2 land?

KIX · 07-13-2014, 10:06 PM

Take a look at the capacitors........I'm betting a 1st stage start cap is bad.

AnimalCop · 07-14-2014, 10:58 PM

You need to Elaborate a little, Where are these Capacitors, I am just a laymen. Give me some guidance

RV Wizard · 07-15-2014, 04:03 AM

The vented side panel where the condenser coil of the basement air cond is must be loosed at bottom and side where forward compartment door is. This panel will swing upward and give you access to the unit. The control box area is at the lower left corner of the unit; looking at it from the outside. Remove the bottom screws and pull off the plate. All controls and capacitors are in here, except the fan motor caps; they are on the motors of the older units. You will need to inspect and check the PTCR and start capacitors, wiring connections and amperage at start up with clamp on amp-meter. Be careful and good luck. Y

KIX · 07-15-2014, 10:18 PM

Also, while in the electrical box RV WIZARD described........look at the wiring to the two compressor relays in the upper right hand corner of that space.
Check the tightness of all the spade connectors too.

AnimalCop · 07-18-2014, 09:26 PM

So I finally got to opening up the AC, turned on the AC and of course its working now. Here is the pic, maybe you can be more specific as to what to check.

RV Wizard · 07-19-2014, 04:22 AM

Ok, it has been a long time since I have worked on one of this age. Is there a schematic on the inside of the cover?
In the bottom is the two 120 vac circuits into the unit. At the top left corner is the 12 vdc control circuits. The two capacitors in the bottom are the compressor run capacitors. Start with making sure all wiring connections are tight. Make sure you always have good voltages to operate the unit. When the is a malfunction, verify voltages first and then start diagnosing if they are good. Good luck and keep us posted.
I do not see the start capacitors and the large relays with the orange and blue wires connected to it is one of the compressor relays. The other one is to the right of it and behind the wiring. There is no PTCR on these old units the relay and capacitors (start and run) for each compressor. It looks like the start capacitors may be inside the unit and if you have a schematic, it should identify some wiring colors you can check to see if in fact they are connected to the start capacitors and if they are within specs. If not, or you have to replace them it looks like pulling the top after pulling the unit may be required to get to them; unless you can pull that electrical box out of the corner.

AnimalCop · 07-20-2014, 06:54 AM

Little more update, I had the MH plugged into my house outlet, 110 and ran the AC, it worked at first, but then it blew the circuit breaker in the house 15amp. I have plugged into this many times and ran the AC and never tripped the circuit.
I happened to be looking at the connections in the Basement air and I heard some weird buzzing and clicking and then the circuit tripped in the 15amp house breaker.

If you remember in my first description when this first started happening, I was using the Generator and the RPM were rising and falling and one side of the generator circuit breaker tripped.

So it is my guess the AC is doing something to cause these power surges or heavy draw.

Does this give you a better Idea as to what I should be looking for?

RV Wizard · 07-20-2014, 07:07 AM

It could be that the t'stat is short cycling and trying to bring the compressor back on too quickly before the head pressure in the system has equalized or better yet the contactor for the compressor is bad and the heat build up on the points are causing an open circuit and the compressor is trying to restart causing high amperage and tripping breaker. Try hardwiring the compressor, by-passing the contactor (relay) for the compressors and see how long the system will run with the T'stat set at it lowest point. Let us know what you find.

AnimalCop · 07-20-2014, 08:18 PM

Referencing the picture I have posted can you describe what I need to bypass. I don't know what is what in that box.

RV Wizard · 07-21-2014, 07:52 AM

The orange conductor coming from the L2 120 vac terminal to the large black relay and the other Orange wire on that relay. It is difficult to see from this photo but it looks like it might be the Black wires on the relay to the right of the first will be the other compressor.

AnimalCop · 07-28-2014, 03:06 PM

Im Still not sure how to check what you described, I have attached the schematic and better pics.

RV Wizard · 07-29-2014, 05:30 AM

Relay # 11 & 12 on schematic are for compressor 1 & 2. Follow the conductor from the common terminals of compressor to its relay and remove from terminal. Pull corresponding conductor from relay terminal and connect the two wires together. This will by-pass the relay and the compressor should start up and run when the t'stat is set for cooling and power is available.