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07-07-2023, 11:02 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2023
Posts: 3
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northern NM-94 Fleetwood Southwind 33L 460 Ford
New RV owner
1994 Fleetwood Southwind 33L 460Ford 63k miles.
Bought from original owners, husband passed, wife held onto it for a number of years, lifetime mechanic convinced her to let him sell...
- Mostly original
- New Tires 2020, few miles
- Very Clean - Oxidized fiberglass/decals
- 2 new (ish) bluetop Optima coach batteries
- 1 new (ish) chassis/starter battery
- 30A shore power
- Onan 5000 generator
- dual AC
- new roof
Problems I am working I could use advice on: - Generator was running, died unexpectedly, thought it was low fuel (from main gas tank) but on refill, does not start, can't hear fuel pump.
- Replaced 50A antique 120v/12v converter with new 30A. Still having mystery short/drain of coach batteries when AUX switch is on *unless* shore power is connected... then it charges the coach batteries at 13.4 (old converter as well as new)?
- dash air no cool air, compressor clutch doesn't engage unless I jump the clutch power. Maybe just freon pressure?
- ac/gas fridge works on AC... main LP solenoid/detector switch now working, LP to other sources... maybe just igniter? will try manual lighting.
- haven't checked heater
- cleared winterized water lines, but can't find WH bypass valve, drain plug had powered (CAMCO?) anode kit installed but removed for draining and disconnected from power (clearly an add-on).
Worth noting. I'm under-experienced with RVs but pretty familiar with home and auto systems. Unfortunately also have hip problems that make it extremely difficult to work on much of anything below waist height... definitely the electrical 120/12V under the sink and anything under the coach, even the generator/LP bays.
I had a mobile RV mechanic come today and managed to undermine his proper troubleshooting. He ended up validating my idea that the converter was bad and swapped in new one for me... (big help!) but we didn't check the use-case that is pathological (Aux relay/switch puts coach batteries under very low-resistance load ???) thinking I'd re-connect the deep cycles (had a small test 12V in place of them to not drain them horribly with the near-short?). He talked me through the water heater/fridge/heater and referred me to a Truck/RV shop 20 miles away for generator/dash AC issues. I'll probably spring for a (<$100??) oil service as well... the current oil has <2000 miles but over a year old.
I'm going to test-sleep in it tomorrow night and maybe get it to the RV mechanic early next week. If I can get *either* generator or 12V system working correctly I'll take it on a maiden voyage.
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07-07-2023, 11:32 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 34,183
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I'm waiting on a new hip so I can sympathize.
Manuals on systems to help with diagnostics and other RV power issues at these two sites.
www.myrvworks.com/manuals/
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
Good luck with getting right up to speed and ready for the road .
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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07-08-2023, 10:16 AM
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#3
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Senior Member/RVM #90
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 56,012
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We’re sure glad you joined the gang here!
Congrats on the new rig! I would start by writing down the make and model numbers of all the individual systems and Google for manuals. Hope you can get the old girl feeling good again soon. Have fun and keep her between the ditches!
Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
__________________
Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
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07-08-2023, 06:36 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Meshoppen, PA
Posts: 2,304
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Enjoy, seem you have the right mindset and have found a few good helpers,,
RV ownership is the art of tinkering... always something to fiddle with,,
The genny is not terrible to diagnose,. a good tech should have it figured fast,
Since it is a 94 with low miles... PLEASE take the time and go over it with a fine tooth comb.. Or have a good truck guy check, belts hoses brakes , change all fluids to be sure,,, batteries and chk cables..
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07-09-2023, 11:03 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2023
Posts: 3
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Thanks to all the welcomes and advice here.
I did my test sleep here at 5400' elevation in the hottest week in history. We still dropped from 100F daytime to 57F overnight so a half hour of low-fan on the BR AC made it sleepable and windows-open/fan-off by 5AM was downright chilly!
I appreciate especially the reminder to get model numbers and manuals of components *before* they give me trouble... especially since they are hard for me to get to/see for the most part.
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07-09-2023, 01:00 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2023
Posts: 561
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Quote:
dash air no cool air, compressor clutch doesn't engage unless I jump the clutch power. Maybe just freon pressure?
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Likely empty. Bad news is that a '94 is likely an R12 system (check it) which means service is going to be more expensive due to the much higher cost of refrigerant compared to R134a (which is also getting more expensive). Might be a bad cycling switch but without gauges to measure pressure, you'd just be guessing.
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07-10-2023, 07:10 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 8,300
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They started using 134a in 92 all vehicles by 95 .A quick look at gauge ports will tell you .....R12 were screw on. R134A has quick connection.
__________________
95 Monaco Crown Royale
M11 400hp, 4060 trans.
Aquahot, Generac Guardian7.5k
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07-12-2023, 08:46 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2023
Posts: 3
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Thanks on the refrigerant/AC advice. I never thought of it being R12... I doubt I ever had a (working) AC in those days... I've had a few R134 systems since but rarely more than slow leaks that needed topping off annually to work well.
The port style should be easy once I figure out where to look for them!
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07-12-2023, 10:04 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2023
Posts: 561
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Quote:
The port style should be easy once I figure out where to look for them!
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The low side port will be either the accumulator or on the hard line adjacent to it. The high side port will be on the hard line between the compressor and the condenser.
You'll have to poke around for them. They should have plastic caps on them. If the unit had been retrofitted to R134a in the past, the caps would be blue and red.
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