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Old 12-20-2018, 06:35 AM   #15
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Add to the list: Lubricate the disc brake sliding brake calipers.

"Sliding calipers" are a cost reduction used on many cars & light / medium duty chassis. Original design disc brakes have pistons on both sides of the caliper that press brake pads against the brake disc (rotor). Sliding calipers cost less to manufacture because they only have pistons on one side and depend on the entire caliper to slide in order to press the brake pads against both sides of the disc (like a "C Clamp" where the moveable threaded part is only on one side, but the other side works to clamp something). If the caliper doesn't slide only the side with a piston is active which significantly reduces braking force. Also, a stuck caliper may not release the brake pad; resulting in a dragging and overheating brake.
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Old 12-20-2018, 08:11 AM   #16
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All these things an no one mentioned air bags and their plumbing...
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Old 12-20-2018, 08:45 AM   #17
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Does anyone replace any of these other items proactively at a certain age? Should we?
That's a good point. I think most people wait for failure on many items, save for tires but should items that wear out be replaced after a certain age or after seeing signs of wear or even failure?

I try to be proactive with my vehicles and replace things when I see (or hear) signs of wear and next year plan on switching to a used class c which will bring a whole new level of care so this thread is helpful to me.
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:31 AM   #18
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When we bought our current RV at 13 years old, I replaced all the engine hoses, fuel filter, the serpentine belt, the brake lines, calipers & rotors, had the transmission flushed. The first hot weather we ran into, we also had problems with the generator fuel pump and replace it along with its fuel hoses. I cleaned the generator carburetor and did the Seafoam treatment.

At the end of everything we have a pretty nice coach and in total have spent about 25% of what a new one would cost. We have looked at new coaches at the show this year, but did not see any that we like as well as the one we have.
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:14 PM   #19
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The seals on my sway bar bushings have gone in my 20 year old Beaver. The internals are fine at this point, but cannot be pressed out and replaced. I thought my original Bilsteins might be bad, but no, they are as good as new.
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Old 12-20-2018, 10:42 PM   #20
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Brake lines and "anything" rubber was mentioned but slide and leveling jack hydraulic lines are subject to the same age-related damage.
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Old 12-21-2018, 02:26 PM   #21
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Under "anything made of rubber" add generator fuel lined. I am changing mine this weekend and adding a manual fuel shutoff valve. The manual fuel shutoff valve is for long term storage.
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:14 PM   #22
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If you're in a Ford F53, you may be interested in my list:

F53 inspection maintenance checklist – 1999 Southwind 35S

A few factors I consider: What is the cost to preemptively replace the item, its risk of failure, and the consequences of failure.
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:31 PM   #23
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On the V-10 the heat pipe that runs through the valley below the intake manifold. From my reading, they are prone to rusting out. Carries hot water back from dash heat to water pump.
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Old 12-21-2018, 09:40 PM   #24
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In addition to all the “mechanical” components many other items suffer from age deterioration . Slide out seals, weatherstripping, awning fabric and stitching, paint, chrome, carpet, fogged windows and electrical systems, electronics all justify close inspection. The costs of replacing or updating these things can be significant.
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winterbagoal View Post
Caulking.


Yes x2
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:25 AM   #26
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I change belts and hoses at 50,000 miles and keep the old ones as spares. At the first sign of a battery issue I change it. I have not had a roadside issue in over 50 years.



Another thing people should consider is that sometimes these belts and hoses may be hard to come by, especially if you do not have a part number handy, due to the custom nature of these vehicles. I replaced every hose on mine and some of them are pretty difficult to get to or identify. I recorded all part numbers for the replacements and a few of them had to be matched up at the parts place. One hose in particular is very specific to my engine and Cummins even had a hart time identifying it. It had to be special ordered because they do not keep them in stock. This would have been very inconvenient if this were a roadside repair situation. I was able to use a bit of finesse when removing the old hoses and all could be reused if necessary. I keep them in a bag that stays onboard at all times along with an assortment of spare clamps since they often break when changing them out. A tip for helping the clamps is to always use anti seize on the screw/spring type so they do not rust and break the next time you try to loosen them. When changing hoses I always go ahead and replace the thermostat(s) as well. Adding shut off valves that can be used to isolate the heater core is also a good thing to do at this time if they don't exist already. This way if you get a leak it is simple to shut it off and repair it at a convenient time.



Anything that can be done in the driveway instead of a road side is money in the bank!
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:40 AM   #27
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If you have a Freightliner DP you may want to replace the coolant reservoir if it 10+ years old. As they age and are exposed to UV they tend to crack and split as I discovered the hard way.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:49 AM   #28
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Great thread, very useful

Thanks to the OP and contributors of this great thread!!
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