Pneumatic push to connect fittings

[gacamp]

I have a couple of air lines that are leaking and slowly draining my air tanks, both will empty in about 6 hours where as they used to stay full for days. The leaks are coming from two lines that tie into the block manifold on the firewall. We have tried removing the lines then trimming but that has not stopped the leaks, that air appears to be coming out between the push-in fitting and the block.

Spartan quoted me $1,900 for the block. So I am asking if anyone knows whether the push-fittings can be removed from the block and replaced or are they integral to the block and not replaceable? The tech at Spartan did not know and I don't want to start trying to remove them unless I know they are replaceable.

Anyone have any experience? Oh yeah its a Parker manifold and so far they have not responded to my inquiries.

[bdpreece]

You might want to give All Hose Inc in Las Vegas a call (702) 643-6777. They were very helpful and knowledgeable. I needed some fitting I could not find anywhere else and they spent a lot of time finding them for me. I talked to the manager who wanted me to know that if I needed any parts or any type of air or hydraulic line they could make it for me and that they will ship anywhere. Might be worth a call.

[gacamp]

Thanks Brian I looked at their website and noticed that they are a Parker store. We have a couple of Parker stores in the area so I will be checking with them on Monday.

I have done a lot of reading in the last couple of hours and noticed that many of the fittings used are threaded with hex sides to be enable a wrench to be used. Unfortunately the fittings in my manifold block appear to be almost flush with no way to put a wrench on the fitting for removal. Also got an e-mail from Spartan that indicated that the valve they had it stock had no Parker part numbers on it, that it appeared to be a special make for American Coach, suggested I call American. That doesn't sound right.

The hunt goes on.

[bdpreece]

Good Luck! Be sure and update us on how you make out.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by gacamp

I have a couple of air lines that are leaking and slowly draining my air tanks, both will empty in about 6 hours where as they used to stay full for days. The leaks are coming from two lines that tie into the block manifold on the firewall. We have tried removing the lines then trimming but that has not stopped the leaks, that air appears to be coming out between the push-in fitting and the block.

Spartan quoted me $1,900 for the block. So I am asking if anyone knows whether the push-fittings can be removed from the block and replaced or are they integral to the block and not replaceable? The tech at Spartan did not know and I don't want to start trying to remove them unless I know they are replaceable.

Anyone have any experience? Oh yeah its a Parker manifold and so far they have not responded to my inquiries.

gacamp,
I've done a bit of research on "Push to connect" fittings and, one thing I've found so far is, while they are widely used in the RV and trucking industry, if you go looking for them at local RV and many auto parts stores, they most of the time give you that crooked puppy head look. Most don't have a clue what you're asking about.

So, I went onto ebay and Amazon and, based on just what you type in, you'll find just about any of those push-to-connect type fittings. Now, not seeing your manifold and, all the fittings attached to it, it's hard to say what can and, what cannot be replaced. But, off the top of my head, I'd say most can. What you need to know is, what size threads you're dealing with and, what sized tubing is involved.

Also, if there's any angles, flares, female and or male pipe threads etc. It's not all that hard. Once you learn what you've got, you just pop onto ebay and or, Amazon to see what you can find.

The first thing I'd do if you already haven't is, get a spray bottle of soap and water and, build your air system to max and, spray all those suspected fittings/lines/connections and more. Check to see where EXACTLY all the bubbles might be coming from. It could be the tapered male/female threads and not the actual push-to-connect fitting. That might be a real simple fix. Bleed the air system down to nothing, remove any suspect fittings from the manifold and, clean well, then, tape them all with good Teflon tape and, re-install.


Oh, by the way, if you don't know how to operate a Push-to-connect fitting, just ask. They can be a bit tricky.

Then, build the air system back up to max and check results of your work. Not very hard other than access to some of those fittings. Good luck.
Scott

[azpete]

push to connect fittings are available at grainger stores and online at grainger dot com. ive used this several times with complete success.

[ChasA]

Gacamp,
Please post a picture of the manifold.

[gacamp]

Here is a picture of the manifold/airblock from Spartan showing a bottom view. You can see that the fittings are flush with the block. I was told today that they are press fit into the block and are essentially not removable. That is hard to verify as I would have to take the old block out, which won't be easy, but at this time I have several trips planned so don't want to potentially disable the coach. The leaks are slow leaks and are not affecting the brakes or suspension so I feel ok with using the coach.

I heard back from one of the salvage yards and they have the block but want $800 for a used block.

[markoftexas]

Hello to everyone.

This is my first post to this forum. I appreciate the info I have read on many chats and want to contribute when I can.

I own a 1999 Fleetwood American Eagle with one of the pressed in "push to connect fittings leaking the same as stated in this chat. The Parker SRMF-0071 air manifold is no longer available through Spartan. I have been researching this Parker air manifold issue and found a company that manufactures new manifolds to replace the Parker for $400 plus shipping. I have also contacted a couple of Parker authorized fabrication/repair facilities to see if the fittings can be replaced or removed and threaded for the screw in type "push to connect" fittings. I will update this post once I have repair info but here is the info for a new manifold:

Carlos Medica
Southern Cross
13501 NE Cedarwood Road
Aurora, OR 97002
503-678-6257
elmotors@centurytel.net

[hardint]

I would remove the block and remove the old fittings and tap the block and purchase male NPT push-loc fittings screw in with sealant before replacing from American. JMO

[markoftexas]

Originally Posted by hardint

I would remove the block and remove the old fittings and tap the block and purchase male NPT push-loc fittings screw in with sealant before replacing from American. JMO

Thank You for the input. I too considered tapping out the block and inserting fittings. I discussed with Spartan, Parker, and Carlos and they all said it is not recommended to install new press in fittings or to tap out the block to accept screw-in push to connect fittings. I'm sure liability kicks in. I figured by the time I purchase DOT fittings and have a machine shop drill and tap pipe threads in the block it is not worth the risk of a air pressure failure and the risk of an accident/tow. Spartan has certified Carlo's manufacturing process of the blocks.

Regards, Mark

[153stars]

Is it just a distribution block or some sort of air valve. Holy smokes $1900 you should be able to get a billet of CNC cut for less than that or custom Harley D. chopper wheel. Good job hunting it down for 400. If its a solid piece of billet ,instead of being molded underneath ,it shouldn't be too bad to drill & tap yourself. The wall thickness of the nylon DOT tubing is only 1/16" , I would trust 1/4" plus of alum. If you have never tapped NPT threads just tap some and check how it tightens up 2 1/2 turns hand tight is about right. We have had machine and fab shops not do NPT tapping right so best to have the fitting for them and tell them what you expect. The two middle look pretty close together . Might be able to end up with one flat facing the other fitting and tighten second with thin socket ,if its real close. Mcmaster Carr has technical CAD drawings on DOT fittings to get measurements . I had McMaster open on tab still from earlier today.
If you did take it to a machine shop, they could possible use a mill cutter to drill the center two slightly off center and get a larger space between if necessary.

[richard5933]

DOT approved air line manifolds are an over-the-counter item. Is there something special about the manifold like pressure reduction, etc? If not, then why does it have to be their brand?

[Dav L]

That's a DIY project for sure. $1900....crazy.
If it's just a manifold, that can easily be done even without a machined block of gold. Just some T's and some hoses.