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05-20-2012, 05:15 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Orange Va
Posts: 96
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Power gear leveling gear no power
We Have a 2000 National Sea Breeze f53 Ford with Power Gear Leveling system. The problem we are having is they work fine at home but when we get to a campground they will not go down until everthing cools down (about 2 Hours). Any one have any idea where to start looking? I have put a new starter solinoid on but did not cure our problem. any help is welcomed.
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05-20-2012, 05:50 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 1,202
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When you say everything cools down, are you referring to the engine, the RV, the levelers, or what? I don't know your unit, but depending on how National set up your coach, it could be the engine needs to be running or Off, the transmission might have to be in Park. The park brake might have to be on. could it be, when you're at home you are plugged into shore power that supplies the necessary power required to run the jakcs. When you get to a campground, if you're not hooked, maybe your batteries are a bit weak, and don't supply enouhg power to run the "hot' hydraulic pump. Just a guess.
__________________
Jim and Lynda, (Sophie, Jake, attack trained killer Shi-Tzus :-))
2003 Fleetwood Expedition 38N 2005 Saturn Vue
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05-22-2012, 06:15 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Orange Va
Posts: 96
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Batteries are brand new so that is not a issue.........All procedures for putting down the jacks are in place....all followed corretly. Something is getting hot. Until it cools after a trip the jacks will not go down.
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05-22-2012, 06:39 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,198
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Does the hydraulic pump motor run, can you hear it?
Do the solenoids click, can you hear them?
Do the jacks extend but lack the power to lift the coach?
My previous moho had a wornout pump. Everything worked perfect, jacks went right down. And when they hit the ground, nuttin, coach didn't budge.
Disassembly proved the pump impellor had worn right into the housing, had almost .060 of end play, so loose it couldn't build any pressure.
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05-22-2012, 09:01 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bluff Dale, TX
Posts: 624
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I don't think the cause is a component getting hot.
For the jacks to operate the interlocks have to be met, parking brake and tranny in park. The light for the parking brake on the instrument panel has to be on.
The jack control panel has to have power. Cargo bay 12v fuse panel, top left 10 amp fuse. Power comes from chassis battery.
Power for the leveler solenoids and hydraulic pump. Power comes from coach batteries. Battery disconnect switch inside the door has to be closed. On the cargo bay 12v fuse panel the two larger wires on the bottom right are generator starter and leveler hydraulic pump.
None of these components are used for anything else except the items in the interlock circuit. If you never have problems with starting power for the generator, the power wire and connections on the 12v fuse panel for the leveler pump is not the problem. You could check for a tight and clean connection where this wire connects to the leveler hydraulic pump up front. Open the battery disconnect switch while you do this to remove power.
Let us know how this works out.
__________________
Most RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
2000 National Sea Breeze F53
1998 CRV Toad
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05-22-2012, 10:22 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Federal Way, Wa.
Posts: 2,901
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Wild guess. It happened to me.
On the emergency brake frame by your left leg under the dash there is an electrical connection. If this guy is loose, unattached--nada. I fixed mine by just reaching under there and finding it by braile and pushing it in. These are famous for coming off or getting loose. At least worth a look.
__________________
I do all my own stunts
03 Dolphin LX 6355, Workhorse W22, 8.1 vortec, 04 CR-V, Blue Ox, Brake Pro----Norm, Barb and
Doc(He's a PhD)
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