Community Forums

datsun78 · 02-08-2020, 01:10 PM

I am replacing the expired CCI Controls LP Gas Leak Detector (model 7773.0) in my '03 Fleetwood Revolution. Seems like most popular replacement is Safe-T-Alert model 30-442-P.

The Safe-T-Alert has 2 wires (12V pos & neg). The CCI has three (two 12V pos & one neg).

Where do the two Fleetwood positive wires come from? Can I connect them together with the single positive on the Safe-T-Alert? If I should use only one positive, does it matter which one is used and cap off the other?

Tried finding an answer among previous posts, but no luck. Thanks for the help.

Mark

Bigd9 · 02-08-2020, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by datsun78

I am replacing the expired CCI Controls LP Gas Leak Detector (model 7773.0) in my '03 Fleetwood Revolution. Seems like most popular replacement is Safe-T-Alert model 30-442-P.

The Safe-T-Alert has 2 wires (12V pos & neg). The CCI has three (two 12V pos & one neg).

Where do the two Fleetwood positive wires come from? Can I connect them together with the single positive on the Safe-T-Alert? If I should use only one positive, does it matter which one is used and cap off the other?

Tried finding an answer among previous posts, but no luck. Thanks for the help.

Mark

Hi Mark, is this the first time you have replaced the detector?

When I replaced mine, I cut one of the red wires and used the other one. On my coach, one red wire goes to the starting batteries, and the other red wire goes to the house batteries. You really only need one supply so pick one.

marjoa · 02-10-2020, 07:35 AM

When I replaced ours, here's how I wired it up.

Gary RVRoamer · 02-10-2020, 10:57 AM

Don't splice the two red wire sources together - you will be permanently tying the house and chassis systems together and defeating the designed-in isolation hardware. Do it the way Bigd9 suggests, using one wire only. Use the chassis battery wire if you want the detector to work while the house battery disconnect is off.

The CCI detector maintained the isolation inside the box, but the SafeTAlert has no such function and only uses one hot wire.

153stars · 02-10-2020, 03:33 PM

You could maintain isolation with a pair of axial diodes one at each pos wires. I'm pretty sure 10 amp would be fine and it's wires would be heavier not act as a fusible link in a short event .You would want to solder inline with the wire and heat shrink or tape , to mitigate stress hanging/pulling on diode body or it's wires .

MSHappyCampers · 02-20-2020, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer

Don't splice the two red wire sources together - you will be permanently tying the house and chassis systems together and defeating the designed-in isolation hardware. Do it the way Bigd9 suggests, using one wire only. Use the chassis battery wire if you want the detector to work while the house battery disconnect is off.

The CCI detector maintained the isolation inside the box, but the SafeTAlert has no such function and only uses one hot wire.

Good advice!

Fiesta48 · 02-20-2020, 08:49 PM

I just replaced my detector. Both red wires were tied together from the factory, but that maybe not right.
I'm going to test which red wire is from the house batteries and only use it.

Sundancer268 · 02-26-2020, 04:55 PM

I believe that negative wire goes to the propane shut off solenoid and the new detector will not activate the solenoid. You will need to remove the solenoid and either tie the two solenoid wires together to ground the new detector or just run a new negative lead to the new detector. The solenoid is no longer required so can be plumbed out of the system.