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Old 11-21-2014, 10:38 PM   #57
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A belated update to this thread. It has been quite a week. Bottom line - as stated, Camping World stated it was a problem with the wiring. Since repair we have had heat, frig, stove, etc. That is good! We are learning, however, that there is still an electrical issue and have an appointment, now in Las Vegas, for Monday morning. House battery still not charging from the engine and thus only holds a charge with shore power or genny. Also, when driving we can charge, e.g. cell phones, from 12 volt if we plug in to USB port on the 12 volt charger but cannot consistently charge off a plug on the 12 volt charger (kind you plug in to cigarette lighter). Assuming that occurs as battery gets weaker. Additionally, the inverter circuit breaker trips. And also, propane furnace quits after a short time even when on shore power. (Last night it was working fine but quit during night. Have been experimenting with it tonight, and when we flip the switch to on, it initially starts appropriately based on thermostat and room temp but switches off within one to two minutes after starting regardless of the therm and temp and doesn't come back on. Electric furnace seems so far to work fine. Another thing of interest that may or may not be normal that we still have to learn about is that when we were on 30 amp a couple of nights ago (our first experience with using the adapter), we did have power, as in lights, etc. but there was no power to outlets. Maybe this is normal with conversion to 30 amp on a 50 amp rig? This we still have to learn about. We took the safe way though and did not run the furnace or anything besides some lights so as not to risk overloading anything especially since the switch on the inside Powerline monitor continued to show as 50 amp (was definitely the 30 adapter we were using) and the switch to switch to 30 would not work, as in when we pressed the switch it would never change anything and continued to show as on 50 amp rather than 30 (again, we definitely were plugged in to 30 amp - not 50) Soooo, we have made progress and are in warmer temps but still clearly have issues.

Damon, appreciate your input. Unfortunately we cannot follow all of it due to limited electrical understanding. Would a bad solenoid potentially explain the issues we are having? Just curious. We have an appointment for Monday as this is clearly beyond what we can do but curious just the same.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:45 PM   #58
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P.S. Forgot to mention that there are two propane furnaces, one that heats the rear of coach and the other the front. Thus far, and we will test this further tonight, the one in rear seems to work well. It's the one for the front end that switches itself off for no reason shortly after starting and fails to restart.
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Old 11-22-2014, 01:25 AM   #59
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I have never worked on a coach that had two furnaces. My guess is that it still only needs one solenoid cut off switch. The solenoid cuts the gas off to the entire coach. If your one furnace is still working and most likely your stove is working fine then your solenoid is working. Understand that something is blowing your converter output CB and this prevents charge to the coach battery. In the same issue your engine alternator won't charge your coach battery either. Something is drawing a lot of current. The best thing you can do to help troubleshoot is to eliminate the easiest possible issues first. Stop by any auto parts sales place (O'Rieley , NAPA) and they will test your batteries for you for free right in the parking lot. If you haven't had any problems with your engine battery then your alternator is probably doing it's job. How many coach batteries do you have and are they 6 volt or 12 volt batteries. If they are 12 vdc batteries ?
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Old 11-22-2014, 01:59 AM   #60
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Continued:
If your batteries check good then your furnace is suspect just because it doesn't work. The biggest current draw in your furnace is the fan motor. It is possible that is your problem but I would expect your furnace to have it's own CB and for that CB to blow before the converter output CB would blow. Did you have your front furnace on while driving down the road and had the initial problem? If you leave your front furnace in the off mode and do not attempt to use it, does your converter cb still trip after a while?
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Old 11-22-2014, 05:40 AM   #61
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Are both LP valve switches ON?

I had similar symptoms with our 2005 Winnebago Vectra. Here's our story.

There is a small 12vdc LP valve on our LP tank (picture 1). The solenoid is normally OFF, and will only turn ON if it gets power (which is what we want for LP supply). This is probably a safety feature (and one source of phantom draw).

There are 2 electric LP valve switches in our Vectra. One is the "LP VALVE" on our interior control panel (picture 2), and the other is the "LP EMERGENCY SHUTOFF" near the LP fill port (picture 3) in the LP filler access panel (picture 4).

BOTH switches must be ON for LP to work.

Once, a LP tech turned the LP EMERGENCY SHUTOFF (picture 3) OFF, which I think they're supposed to do when filling LP tank, but he forgot to turn in back ON. We had no LP. This did become a learning experience for me (which is a long story).

After making sure both LP switches are ON, and you still have no LP, then one diagnostic would be to listen for the little click from LP valve solenoid (picture 1) when your assistant turns one of the LP valve switches ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:03 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Rkh View Post
Wa8yxm, I think the OP is way past whether the valve is open or not. Rig is in the shop and we are waiting for final result
Read that.. Seems CW (good luck with CW OP) fed power to the solenoid (I hope they current limited it) and got them warmed up but they are still tracking the problem

Suspects include blown fuses, loose connections and my favorite, one that completely surprised me when it happened to me is a BAD WIRE.. This was a different circuit in my case though.

AH... MICE,, they like to nibble on insulation and sometimes break a wire.

(I travel with a pair of mouse eradication specialists.. Amber and Alex.. they do a great job, though I think they would really rather the mice came by for lunch).
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:57 AM   #63
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Just my opinion, but from past experience, I would never allow Camping World to work on my coach. It is amazing that their techs cannot trace out the problem in one or two days. Highly recommended going to an independent RV service business. Ask for a recommendation on the forum for a location where you will be arriving for a few days.
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Old 01-22-2015, 06:31 AM   #64
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Just for future reference, I thought I would pass on a little info. I have a 2003 Holiday Rambler and my LP system just quit working yesterday. No furnace, no stove, nothing. I checked everything I could myself before I called a pro. I noticed that there was no light on the carbon dioxide detector in the kitchen floor. My wife also said the light on the bedroom detector was flashing green. I tried testing the kitchen detector and it would do nothing. I took the cover off the kitchen detector and somehow the man box had fell into the wall. I mounted it back in place and tested it and it worked. The bedroom detector stopped flashing green, tested it and it worked properly. Finally, I turned the LP back on and, boom, everything works fine. It was nice to know that my safety switches were all working properly. I hope this helps in the future.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:54 AM   #65
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Remember, the generally the life span of a Propane Detector Alarm per Safe-T-Alert is 5 years. This is a very important device, so replace it when it is malfunctioning or out of date. If fact, after 5 years by design it may beep every few seconds to force you to replace it. Mine have a "replace by" date stamped on them.
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Old 01-28-2015, 04:56 PM   #66
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Sure would like to know the final fix
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