Reinforcing hitch

[EricGT]

I have read several classified ads that state reinforced or strengthened hitch receiver.

What does this mean? Are they welding the hitch onto the frame?
And does this allow one to tow more?

I know my 2002 Rogue has a 3500# towing capacity and the 2003+ have a 5000# towing capacity.
But when checking model specs, there was nothing changed- brakes, frame, transmission between the two years. Perhaps a reinforced hitch receiver?

[Dunner]

My friend had his re-enforced at a trailer hitch shop. Basically what they did was to weld some of the same 2" square stock to the frame, slightly inboard of where the hitch bolts or is welded to the frame and to the hitch. Not to the plug-in part, but to the cross piece of the hitch. That make since?

His was rated at 5000# and is now over 10,000#

[RustyJC]

Originally Posted by Dunner

My friend had his re-enforced at a trailer hitch shop......His was rated at 5000# and is now over 10,000#

So he found a LOCAL trailer hitch shop that is qualified to recertify/rerate a trailer hitch and affix new load rating stickers to it?

Rusty

[Dunner]

Call Cliff and ask him.

Cliffs Welding Trailer Hitches & Truck Accessories | Mesa Arizona

Here, I'll even give you his number. 480-832-0570

[RustyJC]

I don't really care since I'm not having it done. I'm just surprised that ANY local hitch shop can recertify another manufacturer's trailer hitch for higher load ratings. I was just trying to determine if this was a case of "Cliff told me it was good for 10K+" or if Cliff actually placed new certification stickers on the hitch.

Rusty

[Dunner]

I'm sure it was an educated gusstimate from experience. Does a 5000# hitch break at 5001#s?

[RustyJC]

Not if it's engineered correctly as any reputable engineer will include a reasonable safety margin in his calculations. My point is, in the company for which I work (a manufacturer of large industrial engines and compressors), I'm used to an environment in which any tooling that has a weight or torque or other type of load rating must be subject to a complete engineering study (including a specified margin of safety) bearing a P.E. stamp (i.e., certified as accurate by a licensed professional engineer). On the other hand, I've been around enough pipeline welders to have seen the "Well, that ought to be good for 10K now" approach as well.

I was merely attempting to determine which of the above was the case in the hitch re-rating you describe.

Rusty

[Dunner]

I'm curious too. Call him and ask.

[Dunner]

I'm not sure what the new rating is. 6, 7, 8 ,9?

[Mike Canter]

Monaco state that if I weld or change anything on my 10K receiver then it is no longer a 10K receiver specified by them. Their design and installlation is probably certified until it is welded on.

[Wizard]

No way would I trust it to 10K, no matter how much welding is done.

If the original label is 5k then is still 5k if you ever had a accident and that came into question.

The other consideration is that the vehicle is only rated to handle a 3K or 5K then no more hitch than that should ever be added to that vehicle.

[RustyJC]

Originally Posted by Wizard

The other consideration is that the vehicle is only rated to handle a 3K or 5K then no more hitch than that should ever be added to that vehicle.

Yep, changing a HITCH'S capacity in no way modifies the TOW VEHICLE'S towing capacity. If it's equal to or less than the original hitch capacity, then nothing has changed.

Rusty

[Dunner]

My hitch is rated for 500/5000 and my tongue and trailer weight are below that. I have a 10" drop hitch with that rating also. I didn't like the idea of the drop hitch hanging down that far and added struts from where the ball mounts up to the MH frame. I know it didn't increase the overall rating, but it takes some of the stress off the hitch and prevents it from clunking.

[LadyFitz...]

Originally Posted by RustyJC

Yep, changing a HITCH'S capacity in no way modifies the TOW VEHICLE'S towing capacity. If it's equal to or less than the original hitch capacity, then nothing has changed.

Rusty

I'm watching this thread closely (and thanks for the link, Dunner). I'm planning on buying a TT that has a gross trailer weight of 11200#, an empty weight of under 9000# and an empty tongue weight of 1400#. Once I do mods to the TT and load it up, the tongue weight will go down some but will still have to be somewhere between 1100# and 1400# to tow right.

Since I will move the beast no more than twice a year (snowbirding between Mesa, AZ and somewhere cooler during the summer) no more than 200 miles (plus a trip or two no more than a few miles if I get noisy neighbors, one of the main reasons for getting the TT), I don't want to get an enormous truck to tow the thing, especially since it will also be my grocery getter (aka general transportation). A 2012 F150 HD Screw with Max Tow and Payload packages would easily handle the weights, including the tongue weight, if it wasn't for the wimpy hitch they put on it. The truck and hitch are rated for 11300# towing but the hitch is only rated for 1130# tongue weight. The payload with the Max Payload package is 2620#. Even with a 1400# tongue weight and a 100# hitch, that would leave 1120# for a shell (200-300# max), me (NOYB!), fuel (300# max) and anything else I left in the truck (I can always move stuff from the truck to the TT if I needed to). So why does Ford rate the hitch so wimpy?

Ford uses an integrated bumper and hitch so I haven't been able to find a bolt on hitch for the 2009-2012 F150s. Reinforcing the existing hitch is sounding mighty attractive.