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Old 07-02-2022, 07:25 PM   #1
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Replacing my water heater - '93 Class C

I have what I think is the original water heater - 6 gal Suburban with LP and 12 volt ignition (SW6D?). This tank also has a Hott Rod installed but it also has an extra hole in the back of the tank for an anode rod. The Hott Rod works well...



It has started to leak and I am replacing with a SW6DE - which of course means it runs on both LP and electric. My problem is this - I am happy with the Hott Rod but don't see anywhere to install an anode rod on the new one...AND I'm not sure how to go about installing the 120 volt to run the electric part of the new water heater. I have 120 volts there obviously due to the Hott Rod installation...


Any thoughts? I can live with just the LP but do like the electric option.



Thanks,
ryan
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Old 07-02-2022, 07:35 PM   #2
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Suburban SW6DE comes OEM with a Magnesium Anode Rod which is the Drain Plug.....where one would install Hott Rod and lose Anode Rod protection

**Which is probably why the SW6D started leaking no anode rod


SW6DE...
Has AC & DC Junction Boxes on sides of WH Tank
AC Box....right side looking from the back
DC Box ...left side

Just Make up Wiring connections inside the junction boxes

AC power should be from 15A CB
(If Hott Rod was plugged into an Outlet.....make up an extension cord wired into junction box.)


Installation covering SW6 models
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf


Haven't seen a Suburban Model with Anode Rod in Rear
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Old 07-02-2022, 07:53 PM   #3
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"Haven't seen a Suburban model with Anode Rod in Rear"


Me neither, but I am attaching a pic. You can see the Anode Rod just above the plastic box.






My Hott Rod turns on/off via a light switch and is not plugged in. I will read through your suggestions more closely, but this needs to be on it's on separate 15a CB - right?
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Old 07-02-2022, 08:02 PM   #4
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Wow that is an oldie ..........course Suburban has been making RV water heaters since 1947
'Teat' in center of rod indicates it is a Magnesium Rod

Suburban AC Element is a 1440W and pulls 12A so YES s/b on its own 15A Circuit Breaker
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Old 07-02-2022, 08:53 PM   #5
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I replaced the rod last year - took me 10 years to realize that it was an anode rod!


The fact that I need a separate 15A breaker is my problem. I don't have space in my box. I'm not even sure how or to what circuit the Hott Rod is wired in to...


Can I put in a single 15A breaker box under the sink - where my water heater is located?


The more I think about this the more confused I get


I'm back to trying to see if the Hott Rod will work...?
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Old 07-02-2022, 09:15 PM   #6
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Depending on the brand of breakers, you could get a 15/15 breaker.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 07-02-2022, 09:24 PM   #7
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Tandem Single Pole CB would be best option

Remove cover plate on switch....Voltmeter and Open CBs one at a time to ID which one feds the Hott Rod switch
Swap out that CB with Tandem...wire one 15 to Hott Rod switch for use as source for Suburban Element
Other 15 for original circuit



Hott Rod can be used...but they go in the drain hole which is where the Anode Rod goes.
You can get an Anode Rod with the Lightning Rod Kit ...small one
*Kit comes with 2 and you can order 2 pack for replacements
https://www.westernleisureproducts.com/
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Old 07-02-2022, 11:47 PM   #8
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Ok, I am attaching a pic and have located the breaker controlling the Hott Rod. In the pic from left to right you have the 30A Main, 20A AC in one 2 pole breaker - then the 15A Converter and 15A GFI (bathroom) on another 2 pole breaker and then the 15A Ref/Inv and the 15A microwave.


The Hott Rod is on the GFI breaker and I'll have to ID the wires - BUT, I'm still not seeing room to get another 15A breaker installed in this box.


I've looked up some Eaton single-pole tandem breakers but I would need to get 3 15A breakers in the same space where I currently have the 15A Conv and the 15A GFI.


Thoughts?
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Old 07-03-2022, 02:44 AM   #9
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Bogie Bowen

Hi all my American mates, I am old blighty England and have lost all hot water and as you know I even though its summer here you still need a hot shower. Can I ask if anyone knows does my water heater work on gas(lpg) and electric. As i live in my National tropical motorhome I have been hooked up to electric and always had hot water but now stone cold. Does anyone have an idea what's wrong.
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Old 07-03-2022, 10:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogie Bowen View Post
Hi all my American mates, I am old blighty England and have lost all hot water and as you know I even though its summer here you still need a hot shower. Can I ask if anyone knows does my water heater work on gas(lpg) and electric. As i live in my National tropical motorhome I have been hooked up to electric and always had hot water but now stone cold. Does anyone have an idea what's wrong.
Howdy from across the pond....sorry you are having to take cold showers...burrrrr

for best responses......plese start your own thread/post about your issue and include Year/Brand/Model of your Water Heater and RV
*Click on red triangle and ask mods to move yo your own thread
Then responses will be for your issue and not get confused with OPs issue.
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Old 07-03-2022, 10:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgnprof View Post
Ok, I am attaching a pic and have located the breaker controlling the Hott Rod. In the pic from left to right you have the 30A Main, 20A AC in one 2 pole breaker - then the 15A Converter and 15A GFI (bathroom) on another 2 pole breaker and then the 15A Ref/Inv and the 15A microwave.


The Hott Rod is on the GFI breaker and I'll have to ID the wires - BUT, I'm still not seeing room to get another 15A breaker installed in this box.


I've looked up some Eaton single-pole tandem breakers but I would need to get 3 15A breakers in the same space where I currently have the 15A Conv and the 15A GFI.


Thoughts?
You don't have room for more CBs as you already have 3 tandems filling up all the available spaces

15A CB/Bathroom GFCI.....Hott rod was wired to that string
IS the wiring to the Switch daisy chained in with the Bathroom GFCI
OR
Is the wiring to switch connected to the load side of the 15A CB that also has wire connected to Bathroom GFCI? (2 wires on the one CB)

Use it that way.........with Bathroom GFCI
Or move wire to switch over to Microwave CB knowing you can not run WH Electric and Microwave at same time
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Old 07-05-2022, 02:12 PM   #12
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Just had a chance to check out the breaker and it appears that the wires from the different outlets on this circuit are daisy chained together somewhere 'downstream' from the breaker box. I have only have 1 romex connected to the breaker but I have a total of 4 outlets connected to this circuit PLUS the switch for the Hott Rod. It looks like to me the Hott Rod was installed at production and was hard wired to a regular on/off light switch.


I don't see any viable way of tying in to my circuit breaker box unless I run a whole new romex from the box - probably tying in to the microwave circuit - to the water heater or water switch (if I get one to turn the heater on and off easier).


ryan
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Old 07-06-2022, 03:30 PM   #13
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Had an idea that might simplify installation a bit...


Since I was thinking of tying in to the microwave circuit anyway is there any reason I can't connect a wire to the microwave outlet (which I'm almost positive is the only outlet on the circuit - just for the microwave) and run it to the water heater?


The outlet is in the same vicinity (just higher up) and it would be a relatively easy run from there to the water heater and to a water heater switch.


Thoughts?
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