Community Forums

AFChap · 01-18-2017, 04:07 PM

In some 20 degree weather in Alabama during December, first our door froze shut. I shouldered it open. Then the deadbolt was frozen so I worked it aggressively to get it open. The next morning I found the lower lock lever just flopping around. I asked DW and she said "it was frozen so I beat on it like you did last night." Well, I got the door open but when I tried to lock it the lower lock cylinder came out with the key ...broken off at the base.

So, now I have a new Trimark latch kit with lower key matching my cargo door keys, and the top deadbolt unique. Has anyone done this replacement??

We are going on a three night rally tomorrow so I don't want to tear into it just yet, but checking it out today I can see that getting the deadbolt bolt out of the door might be a challenge. I anyone can give me some pointers that would be very helpful.

I did see that the replacement latch has a black inside plate where I had an original cream colored plate. They look interchangeable. Also, my outside latch is painted, unlike any other Winnebago I have ever seen. I think DW is going to want me to have the new one painted like the original.

Anyone who has replaced the latch have some pointers for me??

RV Wizard · 01-18-2017, 04:24 PM

It is pretty straight forward process. Once you have removed the inside screws remove the 2 screws in the end of the door where the bolts come out into the door jamb. Now you can grab the outside handle assembly and pull it out while wiggling it up and down. The assembly and the bolts will come out together. Install the new assembly in reverse not tightening the screws completely until all are started in. Make certain the inside section tab that will actuate the handle bolt is ahead (closer to the edge of door) in relationship to the outside section tang for handle bolt operation. Align the dead bolt knob on the inside section with the stem on the outside section. Good luck and keep us posted.

AFChap · 01-18-2017, 04:48 PM

I see the latch release rod has a nut on the end accessible after removing a tab on the door facing. So after removing that nut (attached to the inside half), and the hex bolts on the door jam bolts on the latch, the outside half with the long bolt will come out with some wiggling? I did see that the inside tab and outside latch mechanism have to be just right for it to work.

RV Wizard · 01-18-2017, 05:14 PM

Is the dead bolt and handle assembly not in the same piece?

AFChap · 01-18-2017, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Wizard

Is the dead bolt and handle assembly not in the same piece?

They are ...the outer handle piece includes the deadbolt, but it does extend quite a ways into the door even when "unlocked." In my looking at it today it appeared to be a tight squeeze to get it out. I had it all loose and it did not seem free to come out.

RV Wizard · 01-18-2017, 05:26 PM

Ok then, you can pull the inside door liner for a way to undo the linkage and install the new one.

AFChap · 01-24-2017, 08:17 PM

I got the latch replaced today. A friend got me an instruction sheet from Trimark that was in establishing the order to go at it ...zero instructions came with the new latch. There is the outside housing assembly, the inside plate assembly, and the latch assembly. I left the original latch assembly in place in the door jamb. I was tempted to reuse the original inside plate assembly (and may yet depending on what the "boss" says) as our original was cream/off-white which matches the door liner, and the replacement is black. My original outside housing is painted to match the full body paint and the "boss" would like to see the new one painted too ...interesting that Winnebago full-body paint coaches have the storage door latches painted but the entry door latches are normally black ...no idea why they are not painted too on new coaches.

Replacement was not terribly difficult, but it is a bit of a struggle getting the outside housing off due to the long deadbolt plunging into the door. Removing the door liner around the latch got me nowhere as the latch is all contained inside a metal box. Wiggling it around and playing with the lower lock/latch linkage got me to a place where it would come out, then somewhat the same to get the new one in. I was unable to connect the linkage for the power door lock actuator w/o totally removing the door liner (the old one came out easy due to the lower lock cylinder being broken off) and decided not to go there as my power door lock is very intermittent anyway (the remote key fobs quit years ago). Getting the linkage rod attached to the inside plate threaded through the latch release took some trial and error, but wasn't terribly difficult. Then I discovered that the outside housing screw holes were not threaded so had to remove everything, tap the holes, and do it all again. I should have thought to check the holes before assembly as I have had to tap all the storage door latches I have replaced over the years ...nothing new, but not mentioned in the instructions. The instructions specify the torque for the screws that hold the inside plate to the outside housing, but I didn't have the adaptors to attach my torque wrench to the torx bit so winged it on the torque. All works well ...new deadbolt key with larger head, and original cargo door key fits the bottom lock as originally delivered.

AFChap · 01-25-2017, 09:10 PM

Well, things got complicated today. DW requested I join her in the motorhome to discuss some changes she wants to make, but the door would not open. I checked both inside and outside operation many times yesterday before locking up for the night and it worked fine. But today the outer handle feels normal but does not open the door.

Long story short, I forced a window open (breaking the plastic latch) to open the door from the inside. After disassembly and inspection I had a problem with going back together with the outer linkage engaging the inner linkage and ended up bending the outer tab just a bit to help it better engage the inner cog. After it was all installed and working fine I believe the problem was in the self-tightening nut that is adjusted with a nut driver through the edge of the door frame. That nut is on the linkage rod that trips the latch release. The instructions I managed to get from a friend say to close the latch (door open), and hold the inner handle open while snugging that nut until the latch releases, then back the nut off 1-1 1/2 turn. I did that yesterday and then tested both inner and outer handles. Today when I did that, when the inner handle would release the latch, the outer handle would not. Also, I noted the nut was much further out on the rod than it originally was. So reversing the directions, I closed the latch and held the OUTER handle open while snugging the nut until the latch released. I did NOT back the nut off as instructed, but fine-tuned it to the point where I liked the feel of both inner and outer handles, with either releasing the latch shortly before full travel, and neither releasing the latch when the lower lock is engaged.

And I did take some pictures today until my phone ran down. Pics and verbiage are on my web page at Door Latch ...I also linked the instruction sheet there for anyone who might like to have it.