Repost- Monroe or Bilstein for front of F53 chassis?

[Rob Hentges]

I recently posted about my shock problem, having lost a bushing in a front shock. From what I can tell, I can go with shocks from Monroe, or Bilstein. What have your experiences been, and what would you recommend? It is a 31ft class A 1993 F53 chassis. I frequently tow a trailer loaded with ATV's on Route 287 in NJ and Interstate 78 in PA. There are alot of potholes, bumps and joints in the concrete roadway.
Will either help reduce the swaying, or suction I feel when a big rig or bus passes me?

[Rob Hentges]

I recently posted about my shock problem, having lost a bushing in a front shock. From what I can tell, I can go with shocks from Monroe, or Bilstein. What have your experiences been, and what would you recommend? It is a 31ft class A 1993 F53 chassis. I frequently tow a trailer loaded with ATV's on Route 287 in NJ and Interstate 78 in PA. There are alot of potholes, bumps and joints in the concrete roadway.
Will either help reduce the swaying, or suction I feel when a big rig or bus passes me?

[Tom Norman]

We replaced our OEM shocks with Monroe Gas RV shocks and have been extremely pleased. A significant improvement was noticed immediately.

While replacing the shocks I noticed that the front sway-bar bushings were rotted, with two of them completely missing. I replaced the black rubber OEM bushings (which are prone to failure) with red IPD bushings which give a firmer ride with less sway.

Finally, I replaced the OEM steering stabilizer (which had failed too) shock with a new Monroe steering stabilizer. After doing these three improvements our rig rides and drives like a dream. Passing trucks do not bother us, nor do bumpy roads.

[Tom Norman]

I forgot to add that our rig is similar to yours. We have a 1993 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, 32 feet long, also on the F53 chassis.

[Kirk]

If the ride is a little stiff, go with Monroe but if your from axle ride is too soft go with Bilstien. They are both good quality shocks but Bilstiens are stiff when compared to Monroes.

[Rob Hentges]

I ordered the monroe shocks & steering stabilizer. They should arrive today. If all goes well, I will install them prior to my trip this weekend on those same bad roads I mentioned. Hopefully I will notice a nice improvement.

[Rob Hentges]

I started the job today. I replaced the shock that had the missing bushing. WOW, those bolts are hard to get out!! I had sprayed them with penetrating oil 24 hours before starting the job.
The steering stabilizer replacement was just a second thought. I figured I might as well do it since I'll be under there with all the tools. Boy am I glad I decided to replace the stabilizer. The OEM one had about the resistance of a screen door spring, along with a slightly bent piston and dents in the cylinder housing. Tomorrow I will tackle the driver side shock, which will be more difficult since there is less access to the upper bolt. I can't wait to see how it feels to drive after these improvements.

[Tom Norman]

Hi Rob,

Our OEM steering stabilizer was bad like yours; it had almost zero resistance.

Two of our four OEM shocks (I don't recall which two) were almost as bad. They had minimal resistance and were contributing nothing to ride stability.

Be sure to check your rubber sway-bar bushings as long as you're under there. Two of my OEM front sway-bar bushings were rotted and two of the bushings were completely gone.

I think you'll be very pleased with the improvement in ride stability and overall comfort. We noticed the difference immediately, and our rig is now a pleasure to drive.

[Rob Hentges]

Tom,

I sure am pleased with the ride improvement. I wish I had replaced those shocks a long time ago. The rocking motion side-to-side has just about been eliminated. I didn't know my RV could feel so good to drive! Thanks for the recommendation on the Monroe Shocks.
The only problem I had was that my hub-cap cover must not have been put on tight enough. I lost it on the way home. My daughter saw it come off, but we were not able to retrieve it. Looks like I'll have to buy a replacement.

[gordon23]

Just a word of caution....If the hub cap came off it
may also mean your rim is flexing. Have a shop make sure the rims are torqued properly.

Most tire dealers suggest retorqued wheels after the first 100 miles or so following removal.

[Rob Hentges]

Gordon,
Thanks for the warning, but in this case I think it was faulty installation of the cover on my part. Since I bought this RV three years ago, the covers on the front have only been held on by one of the two fasteners. The other fastener just wouldn't catch the threads of the lug. I should have been more diligent and replaced the hardware on the simulator.

[gordon23]

Our 35' class a was a roller coaster.

I can't comment on the Bilstein vs Monroe because never used them. I can tell you that 4 new Monroe RV gas shocks made this coach a whole new rig to drive.

We did however put rebuild kits into the sway bar ends but my feeling is it's the HD shocks that make the difference.

[Map40]

I have used both (I was trying to toruble shoot a vibration, and I replaced my Bilsteins Monroe)
They both perform OK. Bilsteins are a little harder, which allows you better control, but certanly you feel more the street.
I kept the Bilsteins, and upgraded the tires so I could run lower preassure, IPD bushings, now it drives like a dream

["007"]

gordon23 & Map40 you both have been busy since joining irv2. Welcome to irv2 Alot of us do up grades to our coachs an you will find the info in "FIND" above you for questions that you may need an answer for. Enjoy your rigs an happy travels to you both. "007"