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09-11-2018, 07:22 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 234
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Retorquing Lug Nuts on Inside Duals
So just wondering, with the recommendations to re-torque lug nuts after "x" miles for a new vehicle, new wheels or after tire/wheel rotation, how many have ever gone to the trouble to re-torque their inside duals?
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09-11-2018, 07:33 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,513
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I do more than that, I check and torque them immediately upon arriving home after leaving the shop. Every time, every vehicle, every wheel, after someone else has removed and replaced a wheel.
I keep doing it because it's unusual to find them correctly torqued. From that I've learned that wheel lug torque may be less important than advertised; otherwise lost wheels would be found on roadsides everywhere.
And yes, I do check them again fifty or so miles later as recommended, and usually some will take a bit more tightening. Some won't, even on the same vehicle or wheel. So I think the guys that wrote the book know something.
I'm very particular about maintenance, and convinced it pays dividends. We travel a lot, and interruptions in our plans due to mechanical issues are nil.
__________________
Newmar Ventana 4037, 2023.
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09-11-2018, 07:56 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1982
So just wondering, with the recommendations to re-torque lug nuts after "x" miles for a new vehicle, new wheels or after tire/wheel rotation, how many have ever gone to the trouble to re-torque their inside duals?
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I think both bud rims are on the same stud so the outside nuts torque both wheels on the dual..
Unless I don't understand what you are trying to say..
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09-11-2018, 08:08 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,311
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As mentioned .HM rear duals have only the single lug nut , personally I haven't seen the dual nut style used on a motorhome chassis.
I re torqued mine at 50 miles and again at 200.
450 ft.lbs.
Different chassis different torque .
What is your coach built on ?
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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09-11-2018, 08:14 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 234
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Ford E-450. So just a single set of outside lug nuts then?
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09-11-2018, 08:20 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Erie, Pa.
Posts: 183
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on 2000 (approx) and earlier the 22.5 rims and larger are called "Stud Piloted" and have inner and outer wheel nuts. You can see the difference in the wheel and the inner stud has a square for install and removal. These older wheels where more susceptible to loosening, they also came in right hand and left hand thread for each side of the vehicle. So to answer the OP unless your rig has the "stud piloted" wheels there are no inside wheel torque required.
__________________
Rick & Becky SKP129417
2021 Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi
2018 Airstream Flying Cloud 27FB Experimental
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09-11-2018, 08:24 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1982
Ford E-450. So just a single set of outside lug nuts then?
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Correct , check your owners manual for torque spec , or have a close look at the lug nuts , it might be stamped into them .
E-350's had it there.
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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09-11-2018, 08:30 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cptdzl
on 2000 (approx) and earlier the 22.5 rims and larger are called "Stud Piloted" and have inner and outer wheel nuts. You can see the difference in the wheel and the inner stud has a square for install and removal. These older wheels where more susceptible to loosening, they also came in right hand and left hand thread for each side of the vehicle. So to answer the OP unless your rig has the "stud piloted" wheels there are no inside wheel torque required.
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That info saved me the trouble of pulling up on blocks and pulling a wheel. Many thanks.
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09-11-2018, 08:40 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426
Correct , check your owners manual for torque spec , or have a close look at the lug nuts , it might be stamped into them .
E-350's had it there.
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Thanks. Even more impressive is your +16,000 posts. Can't begin to calculate the number of folks you must have helped out. Good on ya!
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09-11-2018, 11:43 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 4,309
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Was reading about some having to use sledge to get duals off the hub, some pulling off, some with chains/ tractors, but not yet had mine off; I had a Kawasaki Mule I could not even get off or even budge after all lugs removed. But, I have also heard (not seen) that 18-wheelers have separate lugs for inners and outers?... just suspect that does NOT apply to 16-inch Ford 8-lug LT rims? Experience Anyone?
__________________
(TerryH.) 2000-GS Conquest Limited 6266 Class-C 99-E450SD V10
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09-12-2018, 05:03 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cptdzl
on 2000 (approx) and earlier the 22.5 rims and larger are called "Stud Piloted" and have inner and outer wheel nuts. You can see the difference in the wheel and the inner stud has a square for install and removal. These older wheels where more susceptible to loosening, they also came in right hand and left hand thread for each side of the vehicle. So to answer the OP unless your rig has the "stud piloted" wheels there are no inside wheel torque required.
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I have run both Budd and hub-piloted wheels, and more miles than RVs are likely to run. The only time I had lugs loose with the double nut system was when I removed the outer wheel and did not tighten the inner before putting back on. OTOH, hub piloted sometimes gave me trouble if I did not torque to spec, and in the right pattern
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1982
That info saved me the trouble of pulling up on blocks and pulling a wheel. Many thanks.
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No matter what nut system you use, you do not want to do this. It was proven to cause problems sometime in the '80s...
Quote:
Originally Posted by THenne1713
Was reading about some having to use sledge to get duals off the hub, some pulling off, some with chains/ tractors, but not yet had mine off; I had a Kawasaki Mule I could not even get off or even budge after all lugs removed. But, I have also heard (not seen) that 18-wheelers have separate lugs for inners and outers?... just suspect that does NOT apply to 16-inch Ford 8-lug LT rims? Experience Anyone?
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It is a good idea to use anti-seize on the contact points.
After I torque, drive check enough times they stop moving I use nail polish to make a mark where the nuts meet wheel. That way I can see if they start to back off..
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09-12-2018, 05:28 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THenne1713
Was reading about some having to use sledge to get duals off the hub, some pulling off, some with chains/ tractors, but not yet had mine off; I had a Kawasaki Mule I could not even get off or even budge after all lugs removed. But, I have also heard (not seen) that 18-wheelers have separate lugs for inners and outers?... just suspect that does NOT apply to 16-inch Ford 8-lug LT rims? Experience Anyone?
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This is the seperate nut, dual wheel lug.
The larger nut screws on the stud, holding the inner wheel on. You use a square socket to install.
The normal looking nut goes over it, holding the outer wheel on.
I've seen right and left hand thread types, once on the same wheel of an old truck crane.
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09-12-2018, 06:08 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
This is the seperate nut, dual wheel lug.
The larger nut screws on the stud, holding the inner wheel on. You use a square socket to install.
The normal looking nut goes over it, holding the outer wheel on.
I've seen right and left hand thread types, once on the same wheel of an old truck crane.
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The picture is the old Budd system. Left hand thread was on the left side of vehicle. Of course the inner studs where interchangeable, and so are the hubs.
With this system you never had any trouble with wheel seizing to hub because the tightest fit was at the bell of nuts. The later wheels have a tight fit hub/center hole. They can be hard to get off...
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09-12-2018, 07:12 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoobyDoo
The picture is the old Budd system. Left hand thread was on the left side of vehicle. Of course the inner studs where interchangeable, and so are the hubs.
With this system you never had any trouble with wheel seizing to hub because the tightest fit was at the bell of nuts. The later wheels have a tight fit hub/center hole. They can be hard to get off...
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Yup, we would stick a porta power between the spring and wheel and force them off.
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