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SylSabastian · 11-05-2020, 01:52 PM

On the manufacture it says 11/89 which I guess makes it the 1990 model. I can't say on the replacement possibilities. My main problem is recognition. Even seeing a pic of a pet is tricky if I don't see it in place.
The no gas is yes, it runs out in the carb, I can here when there is some when I press the throttle go increase revs, but then when it dies the last sounds of throttle pressing just sound like air coming through carb. The narrower flap part of it.
Also, if I hold the key in the ignition postion for 3csecs or so and do this 3 times, and then pump throttle 2-3 times, then start, then I don't need to spray starting fluid into carb.
But as soon as that initial fuel runs out it dies and no additional pumping makes any diff.

randomledder · 11-05-2020, 02:25 PM

I’m wondering why there is a red battery cable on the negative post the far right picture. Not saying it’s wrong. But looks off.

MinntoMich · 11-05-2020, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arcaguy

When vehicles start and just run for a short while it is indicative of lack of fuel. One way to test this is to start the vehicle with the air cleaner off and when it begins to stumble spray a little starting fluid in the carburetor. If it continues to run for a couple of minutes and when you stop spraying the starting fluid it dies that pretty much confirms that fuel delivery is the issue. The first thing to check is the fuel filter and you may have more than one. If you remove them and can't blow through them or there is a bunch of crap comes out of the inlet side that's a pretty good indication they were plugged. Many times a vehicle will start and run for a few minutes until the filter plugs up and then stop. After it sits for a couple of minutes some of the crap settles and it will run again for a short while. I believe this is what happened to you. That's where I would start especially given the age of the coach.

Spot on. If you haven't yet, follow this advice.
Fuel delivery problem... Filter? Pump (mechanical)?
O'Reilly's lists both mech. & elect. pumps for 89' but only elect. for 90'. Your carb leads me to believe that you have both. Your carb could be out of adjustment as well, most likely from crud. Lots of tiny passages that are easily blocked by bad fuel. You could be running the gas out of the bowl b/4 it has a chance to fill up. Hard to tell without being there.

SylSabastian · 11-05-2020, 04:03 PM

Yes, the fuel filters and pumps are what I am working on now. Lol, first I have to identify and locate. I have super slow internet atm so takes a while.

SylSabastian · 11-06-2020, 02:37 PM

Thx MinniMitch. I have good news and semi good news. MH is running atm. It was a cracked fuel line. I found some to help and they looked under the chassis while I started and restarted and while it was running he could see a cracked pipe. He could keep it running just by moving the pipe slightly. The mechanical pump had been recently replaced but this pipe they put in one that was too short.
He replaced it and it ran past the 10 secs and I let it run to let fuel cleaner work through. It ran for about 10 mins maybe more before dying.
This time it was a dead battery again.
He didn't know anything about electrical so it was back to the original suspected problem.
I thought to jump start it again and see what happens if I disconnect the negative that connects the engine battery to the coach batteries.
I did that but then when connecting the last neg clamp the the frame there where heavy sparks, too heavy.
I figured there has to be some prob with the house batteries connection so completely disconnected them, jumped it again and it is still running, but idling is high. Would like to know how to set that.
But, I like to be thorough, so I got the Autozone guys to come test the alternator while it's running, which turned out good as it is giving charge but just enough to keep it running so the voltage regulator inside the alt is bad. New one on its way.
Thus, it is running, which is my primary objective for now so I can get it to where I can figure out the house batteries issue without pressure.
Most most cool all the help, turned out to be a very simple fix which I suspected, lol dunno why though. 😀🙂
I'll start a new thread about the house batteries when I get to that.
Soooo thanks for all the help.

SylSabastian · 11-06-2020, 04:02 PM

From the long high idle cab was super hot when I got back from ordering the new alternator. Heater was on high and engine cover off. There was fluid dripping from the front corner of bumper, driver's side and also overflow from what looks like power steering fill. Could that long high idle have caused this? I have pics but slow internet not letting me load them bah. 😋

MinntoMich · 11-06-2020, 05:29 PM

Glad to read you narrowed your fuel problem. I'm surprised the odor of gasoline didn't give the broken line away. As for the idle, are you sure it just isn't on a high, cold idle? Before fuel injection, it was common to have to give the accelerator a good tap after starting/warming up a carbed motor to take it off high idle. You can adjust your idle by turning the two idle screws at the front/base of the carbuerator or by adjusting the screw connected to the accelerator cable. I really would read up on this before making any adjustments or ask someone with practical experience. You really don't want your air/fuel mix too rich or too lean. You could also have a vaccum leak or something could be binding in the linkage.

As for your batteries... Check out this old IRV2 link:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/199...lp-407667.html

Waiting for your fluid leak pics. Good luck.

SylSabastian · 11-10-2020, 08:00 AM

Thx MinntoMich, and sorry for mangling your name before. Yes, it's that high cold idle. When cold it stays on that for a while, sometimes when I do the tap it goes to a low idle but then dies. Same if left on the high idle, after a while goes to the low on its own and dies. After it's warmer up it just stays at a higher idle.
But, even after idling for 20 mins or so, when I put it into gear revs drop significantly and it dies.
I'm not sure if this is still a cold engine issue as temp gauge is barely above cold or the idling is actually too low, or something else.
To drive I have to keep a very light pressure on throttle and brake with left foot. Which lol, I learned to do somewhere in the past, can't remember why though. 😋

DAN L · 11-11-2020, 12:00 AM

I am looking for a photo or a diagram of the starting battery hookup, 1991 Fleetwood bounder. Ford chassis 460. 4 cables, don't know where they go..
I called and emailed Fleetwood. No answer yet.

SylSabastian · 11-11-2020, 10:28 AM

Yeah, I'm likewise looking for the 1990/1989 Fleetwood Southwind battery connection diagram. I also emailed them and nothing. Surprising as I saw others say Fleetwood sent them the info immediately. I'm going to call them. 🙂

SylSabastian · 11-11-2020, 12:21 PM

Update: everything resolved with engine except the too low idle when in gear.
The house batteries are still disconnected, haven't had time too look at it in detail, but now that I do seems there's not too many ways it can be done. The previous owner had that clump of wires on the right to the negative, which made no sense.
They all do not extend much further than they do now which suggests they all go together. Thus, if they are all positive and the other long red wire is connected to the other positive of the house pair that really leaves the white wire. It kinda has to be a neg/ground as I'd imagine the house batteries need to be able to operate independently if there's no engine battery connected.
Also, I'm assuming house and engine are connected neg to neg, yes?
Process of elimination. 😀
Can anyone confirm maybe please?

SylSabastian · 11-11-2020, 03:04 PM

Update: I connected as suggested and house batteries working. Solenoid now clicks on and off. Everything working so far. Not sure on heater yet but no reason it won't. Air in the taps and so on. Too be expected stuff I imagine. ��