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Old 11-30-2017, 07:35 AM   #15
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Hi Sweet briar,

Thor told me the Damon electrical drawings where on a third party server before the merger and were deleted due to no payment.

The coach has been in to the dealer twice fit this with no luck.

My buddy who is an amateur electrician told me he would help me.
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Old 11-30-2017, 10:47 AM   #16
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With two 12v powered items like the steps and mirrors not working I would check the ignition solenoid which gives power to the ignition fuse panel. Both may be located in the forward drivers side electrical box. I have had this 12v solenoid go bad on me twice and the symptoms were the same as yours.
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Old 11-30-2017, 12:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
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With two 12v powered items like the steps and mirrors not working I would check the ignition solenoid which gives power to the ignition fuse panel. Both may be located in the forward drivers side electrical box. I have had this 12v solenoid go bad on me twice and the symptoms were the same as yours.
Hi 757 driver,

That makes sense to me, I can have an auto shop check it out.
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Old 11-30-2017, 03:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetbriar View Post
White wire - lock out switch (stay open)
Red wire - constant 12VDC (normally chassis power source)
Yellow Wire - Ignition switched 12VDC

Brown wire - door open trigger (door frame magnetic switch)
Green wire - ground
Purple wire (if not cut back) - optional step light switched power. Can be used to light exterior lights when the door opens.
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Originally Posted by 1stMH View Post
they did say there was voltage at the step controller when the ignition is on.
Fine, but did they check BOTH wires that should be hot when the ignition is on? The red wire will always be hot, and since all other aspects of the step are correct, then I would assume that wire is indeed hot. But you also need 12V on the yellow wire WHEN THE IGNITION is on. If it's hot with the ignition, then the controller is bad. If the yellow wire is NOT hot with the ignition, then it is a wiring issue.

Since you say they "tried" a new controller, that makes me believe that the yellow wire IS hot when the ignition is on; otherwise there would be no reason to try a different controller. But if that's the case (yellow is hot) then there is no wiring issue at all, and both controllers are bad (unusual, but not unheard of).
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:28 PM   #19
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Fine, but did they check BOTH wires that should be hot when the ignition is on? The red wire will always be hot, and since all other aspects of the step are correct, then I would assume that wire is indeed hot. But you also need 12V on the yellow wire WHEN THE IGNITION is on. If it's hot with the ignition, then the controller is bad. If the yellow wire is NOT hot with the ignition, then it is a wiring issue.

Since you say they "tried" a new controller, that makes me believe that the yellow wire IS hot when the ignition is on; otherwise there would be no reason to try a different controller. But if that's the case (yellow is hot) then there is no wiring issue at all, and both controllers are bad (unusual, but not unheard of).
They told me they checked the yellow wire, but you never know. I do not know if they have a trained electrician.
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:31 PM   #20
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I only ask because if they did try a new controller, that would suggest that the yellow wire WAS hot with the ignition. If that's the case, then there IS no problem with the wiring; it HAS to be a controller issue.
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:36 PM   #21
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I only ask because if they did try a new controller, that would suggest that the yellow wire WAS hot with the ignition. If that's the case, then there IS no problem with the wiring; it HAS to be a controller issue.
That could be the case, they our the original controller back in and same thing.
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:56 PM   #22
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I had the same problem with my Alpine, I had to turn off batteries switches at the battery box, then turn them back on, seems to work every time. mine will go months working just fine, then it goes bad, have to keep an eye on it.
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:07 AM   #23
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If they "cut and spliced" a new controller they may have left the original ground connection or even a power connection.

This would leave the real problem in place.

Follow the ground wires and remove any screws holding them in place. Inspect the connections closely. Did they clean them????

Use sandpaper on the connections and make the place where the connections is made shiny and new.

BE SURE to have the batteries disconnected and shoreline disconnected when doing this..... The steps can retract or extend when unexpected.

After so many great inputs from posters I would really appreciate a fresh symptom input from you.

I do not think the mirrors are associated in any way. Just not logical and it is very common to have more than one problem at a time. It is more the rule than unusual.

Often additional problems are inserted while trying to diagnose a real problem. Probing and poking can install fresh problems and really cloud the diagnosis.
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:29 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
If they "cut and spliced" a new controller they may have left the original ground connection or even a power connection.

This would leave the real problem in place.

Follow the ground wires and remove any screws holding them in place. Inspect the connections closely. Did they clean them????

Use sandpaper on the connections and make the place where the connections is made shiny and new.

BE SURE to have the batteries disconnected and shoreline disconnected when doing this..... The steps can retract or extend when unexpected.

After so many great inputs from posters I would really appreciate a fresh symptom input from you.

I do not think the mirrors are associated in any way. Just not logical and it is very common to have more than one problem at a time. It is more the rule than unusual.

Often additional problems are inserted while trying to diagnose a real problem. Probing and poking can install fresh problems and really cloud the diagnosis.
Hi,

That's it with the symptoms.

All that is mentioned I would rather have a pro or someone who knows what they are doing do.

I am not in a rush as the coach is stored for the winter but I am going to look up auto electricians.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:26 AM   #25
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I agree with YC1; the mirrors are a separate issue, unconnected to the step problem.

My money is still on a bad controller. If there is 12v on the red wire (constant), and there is 12v on the yellow wire (when the ignition is turned on), and all other functions of the step work fine, there is no other option.

If it was a bad ground, the step would work intermittently or not at all under ALL conditions, not just the ignition retract function. If it was a bad magnetic door switch, then again it would be problematic under all conditions. Same with the main lockout switch.

The only other possibility would be an intermittent problem with the ignition (yellow) wire; hot when they checked it, but then cold (?) again when they plugged in the new (and old) controller. If that's the case, then perhaps the plug itself is bad or the wiring right near the plug. Again, the key is whether/when the yellow wire is hot/cold.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:49 PM   #26
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I called a truck place who have done work for me in the past, they can work on it for me in the new year.

Also not sure if this connected buy my chassis battery keeps going flat. I had driven the coach on Sunday for 15 miles and it was flat today.
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:52 PM   #27
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...
Also not sure if this connected buy my chassis battery keeps going flat. I had driven the coach on Sunday for 15 miles and it was flat today.


We had similar issues with steps only... was related to weak battery, DH put in new engine battery, havenít had a problem yet!
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:53 PM   #28
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That could be it.

The battery was replaced last April under warranty.
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