Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-18-2021, 08:41 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
TimmyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Florida, originally Michigan
Posts: 1,045
Question Still no working furnace in my brand new coach after 10 months!

Well, weve had our new rig for 10 months now. Hard to believe but weve not had a properly-working furnace in all that time. REV Group has had our unit in twice for extended periods and both times said they had fixed the problem. Both times, within an hour, we figured out that they had not. I had posted this way back when but on a different sub-thread; Im trying again on this thread, hoping that someone will have any idea where to look before it goes back to REV in the spring.

Our furnace is a Dometic DF series which is controlled by a Precision Circuits (PCI) control panel. There is no separate manual control thermostat; everything heat and cooling related is through this panel.



We also have two roof mounted AC units, the rear one over the bedroom also being a heat pump. Those are Airxcel brand.

Heres what the symptoms are:
  • When you turn the furnace on through the PCI panel, the furnace will start up as it should after the 30-second time for the fan to blow out any possible remaining gas. (Originally, it would short-cycle a lot but that was a different issue which was fixed.)
  • After a period of usually about 15 minutes, the burner shuts itself off but the blower continues to blow. The PCI board is still calling for heat because the interior temperature has not even come close to reaching the desired temperature.
  • Occasionally, the burner will reignite for a few minutes but it will then stop, again. The blower continues to blow.
  • After a period of about 30 minutes, the system becomes completely non-responsive to commands through the PCI panel. The blower continues to blow cold air and no matter what commands you give it in the panel, there is no shutting it off. The ONLY way to stop the furnace is to turn off the power to the entire coach with the battery disconnect switch by the door!

If that isnt strange enough, we discovered a new symptom this week. We usually sleep with the bedroom AC/Heat Pump unit on all night, simply for the white noise that it provides. We set the fan to run continuously, whether it is heating the air or not. When the temperature drops below the set temperature in the PCI panel, you can hear the hum of the compressor doing its job, and you can also hear it click off once the temp has been reached. The fan never changes during any of this; it simply blows air all night.

One morning this week, it got cold enough in South Florida that I ran the furnace in the living room, just to see what would happen. TWICE, after 10-15 minutes, not only did the burner on the furnace stop, the blower shut down in the bedroom AC/Heat Pump unit, then after a couple of minutes, started back up! This, after it ran all night without stopping even once. (Actually, EVERY night without stopping.) When the system became unresponsive this time, the blower on the heat pump unit was also stuck on. Battery disconnect to the rescue.

We are at our wits end. Our warranty expires in two months and I have a feeling that this will be another guess-and-check adventure at the factory. The only good news out of this is, we are MOSTLY in warm weather throughout the year. However, having no furnace kind of makes it hard to consider doing anything BUT that. We have survived on three space heaters, the electric fireplace, and the heat pump on the roof, but thats not what we should be doing with a brand new coach.

Anyone have ANY ideas or heard of anything like this?
__________________
==============================
2020 Fleetwood Bounder 35P, Blue Ox Avail towbar, Blue Ox Patriot II brake system, EezTire TPMS system, 2021 Ford Ranger Tremor (toad)
TimmyB is online now   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-18-2021, 08:51 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3,760
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimmyB View Post
Well, weve had our new rig for 10 months now. Hard to believe but weve not had a properly-working furnace in all that time. REV Group has had our unit in twice for extended periods and both times said they had fixed the problem. Both times, within an hour, we figured out that they had not. I had posted this way back when but on a different sub-thread; Im trying again on this thread, hoping that someone will have any idea where to look before it goes back to REV in the spring.

Our furnace is a Dometic DF series which is controlled by a Precision Circuits (PCI) control panel. There is no separate manual control thermostat; everything heat and cooling related is through this panel.



We also have two roof mounted AC units, the rear one over the bedroom also being a heat pump. Those are Airxcel brand.

Heres what the symptoms are:
  • When you turn the furnace on through the PCI panel, the furnace will start up as it should after the 30-second time for the fan to blow out any possible remaining gas. (Originally, it would short-cycle a lot but that was a different issue which was fixed.)
  • After a period of usually about 15 minutes, the burner shuts itself off but the blower continues to blow. The PCI board is still calling for heat because the interior temperature has not even come close to reaching the desired temperature.
  • Occasionally, the burner will reignite for a few minutes but it will then stop, again. The blower continues to blow.
  • After a period of about 30 minutes, the system becomes completely non-responsive to commands through the PCI panel. The blower continues to blow cold air and no matter what commands you give it in the panel, there is no shutting it off. The ONLY way to stop the furnace is to turn off the power to the entire coach with the battery disconnect switch by the door!

If that isnt strange enough, we discovered a new symptom this week. We usually sleep with the bedroom AC/Heat Pump unit on all night, simply for the white noise that it provides. We set the fan to run continuously, whether it is heating the air or not. When the temperature drops below the set temperature in the PCI panel, you can hear the hum of the compressor doing its job, and you can also hear it click off once the temp has been reached. The fan never changes during any of this; it simply blows air all night.

One morning this week, it got cold enough in South Florida that I ran the furnace in the living room, just to see what would happen. TWICE, after 10-15 minutes, not only did the burner on the furnace stop, the blower shut down in the bedroom AC/Heat Pump unit, then after a couple of minutes, started back up! This, after it ran all night without stopping even once. (Actually, EVERY night without stopping.) When the system became unresponsive this time, the blower on the heat pump unit was also stuck on. Battery disconnect to the rescue.

We are at our wits end. Our warranty expires in two months and I have a feeling that this will be another guess-and-check adventure at the factory. The only good news out of this is, we are MOSTLY in warm weather throughout the year. However, having no furnace kind of makes it hard to consider doing anything BUT that. We have survived on three space heaters, the electric fireplace, and the heat pump on the roof, but thats not what we should be doing with a brand new coach.

Anyone have ANY ideas or heard of anything like this?
Wow. The bolded text makes me think of AGS - the time out between generator start and load transfer. Is that controlled by the PCI system, too? If so, and a new coach... I think there's a staple or screw in wiring associated with the PCI system, or a loose connection somewhere (bad splice?).

It's possible that you have more than 1 problem, too, and they're interacting.

Good luck, Tim.
__________________
2005 Four Winds Majestic 23A
To the world you may be one person; but to one person you may be the world. - Dr Suess
Solo_RV_Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2021, 08:56 PM   #3
YC1
Senior Member
 
YC1's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 10,288
I would have a voltmeter at the furnace wires. Should be easy enough to get to them.

My gut feeling is a voltage issue causing the computer to lose its mind. Have they changed any parts????

These things live of 12 volts and use very long wires in places and some simple poor connection along the way can drive a person off a cliff.

At this point you have symptoms but no real data. Sure measure your battery voltages and check all the connections there but you need a voltage reading at the furnace.

Your heat pump AC's use the same 12 volts and one load added to another load can just sink the voltage a bit lower.

As an example. My in motion sat receiver used to have a habit of just looking and not locking onto the birds. It was strange in that it would work sometimes. The learning curve was steep on this monster and learning the 12 volt systems was a real trial without documentation available at that time.

The long wires I mention fed the 12 volts needed for the bird to search and lock. The extra long wire route and the resultant voltage drop of just a volt or so would make the device not work properly. Starting the rv, shoreline, or generator solved the problem but without a charging source the voltage was just ragged edge. I installed a 12 volt power supply right near and used my inverter to power it during the times I needed it to lock and did not have any charging sources.

I have seen just tents of a volt cause misery.

You need to keep in mind your ground wires can be very long and also be the cause of the issue.

So you need to make up your own ground wire and connect that to the voltmeter because you need to measure the positive and negative leads. Any voltage on the negative lead is bad.

To help you get measurements on wires you cannot get to connectors on, sharpen your probe positive lead to a point and it can pierce a wire as well as your fingers.

Write those measurements down. Don't try to remember them.

You need to get measurements with the furnace on and off of course.

Good hunting.
__________________
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
400 Isl, 400 HP/// Now 450 HP
2016 Ford F150 Limited V6 with Ready Brake
YC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2021, 08:57 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
TimmyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Florida, originally Michigan
Posts: 1,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo_RV_Guy View Post
Wow. The bolded text makes me think of AGS - the time out between generator start and load transfer. Is that controlled by the PCI system, too? If so, and a new coach... I think there's a staple or screw in wiring associated with the PCI system, or a loose connection somewhere (bad splice?).

It's possible that you have more than 1 problem, too, and they're interacting.

Good luck, Tim.
We are on shore power 99.999% of the time. Would the AGS come into play here? (Serious question; not really sure if it does or doesn't!)

I did try calling the people at PCI and they were very nice and helpful, but they basically said all their unit does is call for heat, which runs from the panel to the fuse box, then to the furnace itself. He couldn't imagine how their system could do this, even if he wanted it to. (Hopefully, that was factual!)

Thanks for responding!
__________________
==============================
2020 Fleetwood Bounder 35P, Blue Ox Avail towbar, Blue Ox Patriot II brake system, EezTire TPMS system, 2021 Ford Ranger Tremor (toad)
TimmyB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2021, 09:04 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
TimmyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Florida, originally Michigan
Posts: 1,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
I would have a voltmeter at the furnace wires. Should be easy enough to get to them.

My gut feeling is a voltage issue causing the computer to lose its mind. Have they changed any parts????

These things live of 12 volts and use very long wires in places and some simple poor connection along the way can drive a person off a cliff.

At this point you have symptoms but no real data. Sure measure your battery voltages and check all the connections there but you need a voltage reading at the furnace.

Your heat pump AC's use the same 12 volts and one load added to another load can just sink the voltage a bit lower.

As an example. My in motion sat receiver used to have a habit of just looking and not locking onto the birds. It was strange in that it would work sometimes. The learning curve was steep on this monster and learning the 12 volt systems was a real trial without documentation available at that time.

The long wires I mention fed the 12 volts needed for the bird to search and lock. The extra long wire route and the resultant voltage drop of just a volt or so would make the device not work properly. Starting the rv, shoreline, or generator solved the problem but without a charging source the voltage was just ragged edge. I installed a 12 volt power supply right near and used my inverter to power it during the times I needed it to lock and did not have any charging sources.

I have seen just tents of a volt cause misery.

You need to keep in mind your ground wires can be very long and also be the cause of the issue.

So you need to make up your own ground wire and connect that to the voltmeter because you need to measure the positive and negative leads. Any voltage on the negative lead is bad.

To help you get measurements on wires you cannot get to connectors on, sharpen your probe positive lead to a point and it can pierce a wire as well as your fingers.

Write those measurements down. Don't try to remember them.

You need to get measurements with the furnace on and off of course.

Good hunting.
Thanks, Myron. As you know, I don't mind doing the work but I'm not sure exactly how to do all of those things you just said!
__________________
==============================
2020 Fleetwood Bounder 35P, Blue Ox Avail towbar, Blue Ox Patriot II brake system, EezTire TPMS system, 2021 Ford Ranger Tremor (toad)
TimmyB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2021, 09:08 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
TimmyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Florida, originally Michigan
Posts: 1,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
...Starting the rv, shoreline, or generator solved the problem but without a charging source the voltage was just ragged edge...

Good hunting.
And, maybe that's at least something I can try tomorrow morning. Once it happens, start the genny or the engine and see if anything is affected. Maybe?
__________________
==============================
2020 Fleetwood Bounder 35P, Blue Ox Avail towbar, Blue Ox Patriot II brake system, EezTire TPMS system, 2021 Ford Ranger Tremor (toad)
TimmyB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2021, 09:48 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Old-Biscuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 21,084
The DOmetic DF Series Furnaces are basically the SAME as the Old Atwood Furnaces...Dometic just changed the Model Numbers
DF just stands for Dometic Furnace and then the rest of Model denotes Small, Medium, Large size furnace and BTU Ratings

Some changes in case/access door etc (cosmetic) BUT they still function the Same .......

Furnace Fan continues to run.....
THERMOSTAT Issue ---- DC Wires Shorted *Can't control/use it
Furnace Circuit Board issue ----- PWR (Power) to BLO (Blower) Circuit shorted

Here is the DF Series Manual (Installation/wiring etc)
See Pg 23 Figure 1
https://fourwheelcampers.com/wp-cont...FSAD-12111.pdf
__________________
Is it time for YOUR Medication or Mine?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor & NUWA 5vr
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
Old-Biscuit is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2021, 06:27 AM   #8
YC1
Senior Member
 
YC1's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 10,288
Are you on shoreline??

And taking a voltage measurement is quite easy actually. I taught my brother how and suggested he take some pictures of the meter so the next time he would know where to set it. He didn't and promptly called me a couple of weeks later.

Having confidence in a meter setting is really important and teaching someone how to take a few measurements is easy. The results of those readings can be interpreted by the amazing amount of highly experienced folks here.

After your comment about the mfgr explaining how the thermostat works it makes more sense now. It is basically a dumb/fancy thermostat. Doing things engineers like to do with bells and whistles tha used to be done with bailing wire and relays.

Having a furnace run on after the fire shutting off was very common in a couple of my old RV's. The fire would cycle off and the blower kept going. But what was not noticeable was that the fan had slowed a bit. This slowing of the air flow would not push the simple (pre-engineers with bells and whistles), sail switch. Air flow would reduce because the motor was not spinning quite as fast. So the heater would just blow cold air all night until the battery went dead or someone shut it off.

If you are boondocking (or) somehow are getting a low voltage issue the issue could be simple enough to locate. Again, a voltage measurement at the furnace.

There are a lot of average technicians out there but there are a few with the talent of artists. And they are tempermental and sometimes grumpy. But some are absolute life savers and can make a banana talk. They are few but I know many gems. They can sniff out a weird problem that only the smallest clue they had to surgically remove from a customer that "thought" something they didn't say was not important.

The old game of "20 questions". The are of asking the same questions over an over in a slightly different way when the onlooking customer offers that subtle clue that makes the ah ha light come on.

There are several of those on this forum and if you are patient and provide the clues they will be much more likely to find the root of the problem.

Seems you are already patient.
__________________
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
400 Isl, 400 HP/// Now 450 HP
2016 Ford F150 Limited V6 with Ready Brake
YC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2021, 06:35 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
TimmyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Florida, originally Michigan
Posts: 1,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
The DOmetic DF Series Furnaces are basically the SAME as the Old Atwood Furnaces...Dometic just changed the Model Numbers
DF just stands for Dometic Furnace and then the rest of Model denotes Small, Medium, Large size furnace and BTU Ratings

Some changes in case/access door etc (cosmetic) BUT they still function the Same .......

Furnace Fan continues to run.....
THERMOSTAT Issue ---- DC Wires Shorted *Can't control/use it
Furnace Circuit Board issue ----- PWR (Power) to BLO (Blower) Circuit shorted

Here is the DF Series Manual (Installation/wiring etc)
See Pg 23 Figure 1
https://fourwheelcampers.com/wp-cont...FSAD-12111.pdf
Thank you. I will look at that manual this morning.
__________________
==============================
2020 Fleetwood Bounder 35P, Blue Ox Avail towbar, Blue Ox Patriot II brake system, EezTire TPMS system, 2021 Ford Ranger Tremor (toad)
TimmyB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2021, 06:37 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
TimmyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Florida, originally Michigan
Posts: 1,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
Are you on shoreline??

And taking a voltage measurement is quite easy actually. I taught my brother how and suggested he take some pictures of the meter so the next time he would know where to set it. He didn't and promptly called me a couple of weeks later.

Having confidence in a meter setting is really important and teaching someone how to take a few measurements is easy. The results of those readings can be interpreted by the amazing amount of highly experienced folks here.

After your comment about the mfgr explaining how the thermostat works it makes more sense now. It is basically a dumb/fancy thermostat. Doing things engineers like to do with bells and whistles tha used to be done with bailing wire and relays.

Having a furnace run on after the fire shutting off was very common in a couple of my old RV's. The fire would cycle off and the blower kept going. But what was not noticeable was that the fan had slowed a bit. This slowing of the air flow would not push the simple (pre-engineers with bells and whistles), sail switch. Air flow would reduce because the motor was not spinning quite as fast. So the heater would just blow cold air all night until the battery went dead or someone shut it off.

If you are boondocking (or) somehow are getting a low voltage issue the issue could be simple enough to locate. Again, a voltage measurement at the furnace.

There are a lot of average technicians out there but there are a few with the talent of artists. And they are tempermental and sometimes grumpy. But some are absolute life savers and can make a banana talk. They are few but I know many gems. They can sniff out a weird problem that only the smallest clue they had to surgically remove from a customer that "thought" something they didn't say was not important.

The old game of "20 questions". The are of asking the same questions over an over in a slightly different way when the onlooking customer offers that subtle clue that makes the ah ha light come on.

There are several of those on this forum and if you are patient and provide the clues they will be much more likely to find the root of the problem.

Seems you are already patient.
Yes, we are almost always on shore power. I will attempt to tackle this a little later this morning.
__________________
==============================
2020 Fleetwood Bounder 35P, Blue Ox Avail towbar, Blue Ox Patriot II brake system, EezTire TPMS system, 2021 Ford Ranger Tremor (toad)
TimmyB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2021, 07:27 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Bsipe01's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Southeast
Posts: 113
Sounds like your furnace board may be locking out on flame failure. Most furnaces follow a typical sequence of operation-- the furnace gets a call for heat, it will start the inducer blower and prove draft, then it will try for ignition. The ignitor will either glow or spark, then open the gas valve. Most use flame rectification to prove flame- an AC current is impressed on the flame rod or ignitor, if there's flame, that AC current will be rectified to DC passing through the flame. If the control senses the DC current (in milliamps), it will keep the gas valve open until the call for heat stops. If there's no DC current, the ignitor stops, the inducer continues to run, and the trial for ignition sequence repeats. Usually 3 times or a timed limit. If ignition fails, it locks out and won't re-try until the call for heat stops, or the power is cycled. If ignition proves, the furnace heats up and the blower starts up delivering heated air to the space.



That's a generic description of how many systems function. If you don't know how it's supposed to work, you won't be able to make any sort of logical diagnosis when it's not working. A manual will describe the sequence of operation, that's where to start. Absent that, you're just guessing.


Infrequently used equipment can suffer from myriad small issues that can cumulatively cause failure. If there's a flame rod, oxidation can interfere with the rectification, poor grounding of the flame rod or control module can also prevent flame proving, if there's a spark ignition, incorrect positioning of the flame rod or spark ignitor can trigger ignition failure. If there's a glow coil, a crack in the ceramic can cause intermittent flame failure. A good service tech will be familiar with all these issues and may have some DX tricks to determine the cause.



A DIY approach requires basic troubleshooting skills, a meter, and troubleshooting sequence. It's important to have a logical sequence and follow every step to determine the cause and a solution. Skipping around will just leave you frustrated with no fix.
Bsipe01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2021, 07:53 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Old-Biscuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 21,084
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimmyB View Post
Thank you. I will look at that manual this morning.

Should also be a Light on the circuit board that is used as a Error Code

See pg 25 for explanation and codes
__________________
Is it time for YOUR Medication or Mine?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor & NUWA 5vr
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
Old-Biscuit is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2021, 08:09 AM   #13
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,190
I haven't read all the details but Old-biscuit seems to be on track.

For diagnostics you have to break the system down into it's logical components. If the thermostat is calling for heat, then the furnace should turn on and "do it's thing". All of that timing stuff is contained within the furnace control unit.

The "smart" panel is just a user interface telling the thermostat controller what you want it to do (raise the heat, turn on the fan etc).

So, next steps is to take a voltmeter out to the furnace and see what voltages the system is getting compared to what it's supposed to get. This requires some diagnostic understanding and a wiring schematic of the system so you can figure out what wire colors do what.

The "smart" panel intimidates many in diagnostics as they don't understand what part of the system does what.
Dav L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2021, 08:35 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
TimmyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Florida, originally Michigan
Posts: 1,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bsipe01 View Post
Sounds like your furnace board may be locking out on flame failure. Most furnaces follow a typical sequence of operation-- the furnace gets a call for heat, it will start the inducer blower and prove draft, then it will try for ignition. The ignitor will either glow or spark, then open the gas valve. Most use flame rectification to prove flame- an AC current is impressed on the flame rod or ignitor, if there's flame, that AC current will be rectified to DC passing through the flame. If the control senses the DC current (in milliamps), it will keep the gas valve open until the call for heat stops. If there's no DC current, the ignitor stops, the inducer continues to run, and the trial for ignition sequence repeats. Usually 3 times or a timed limit. If ignition fails, it locks out and won't re-try until the call for heat stops, or the power is cycled. If ignition proves, the furnace heats up and the blower starts up delivering heated air to the space.



That's a generic description of how many systems function. If you don't know how it's supposed to work, you won't be able to make any sort of logical diagnosis when it's not working. A manual will describe the sequence of operation, that's where to start. Absent that, you're just guessing.


Infrequently used equipment can suffer from myriad small issues that can cumulatively cause failure. If there's a flame rod, oxidation can interfere with the rectification, poor grounding of the flame rod or control module can also prevent flame proving, if there's a spark ignition, incorrect positioning of the flame rod or spark ignitor can trigger ignition failure. If there's a glow coil, a crack in the ceramic can cause intermittent flame failure. A good service tech will be familiar with all these issues and may have some DX tricks to determine the cause.



A DIY approach requires basic troubleshooting skills, a meter, and troubleshooting sequence. It's important to have a logical sequence and follow every step to determine the cause and a solution. Skipping around will just leave you frustrated with no fix.
I didn't mention above, they DID replace the furnace control board during the December visit to REV, which was the 2nd attempt to fix it. The only reason I know this is, they left the old one in the small box that the new one came in. It was also marked "good", so I'm guessing it tested out OK, but they replaced it anyway.

I do have a basic understanding of the sequence of things, but the baffling part for me is, if/when it loses that proof of flame and shuts the burner down, why does it not shut the fan down after it goes through the usual time of blowing air to safely clear the lines of any gas? It just goes forever and becomes unresponsive. THAT'S what I can't wrap my head around.
__________________
==============================
2020 Fleetwood Bounder 35P, Blue Ox Avail towbar, Blue Ox Patriot II brake system, EezTire TPMS system, 2021 Ford Ranger Tremor (toad)
TimmyB is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
ace, furnace



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Winter Months: Better to drive or let sit 3-4 months JoJoKnight Jayco Owner's Forum 1 11-25-2018 08:39 PM
Fitness: 3 months in an RV vs. 3 months in a space ship NealC iRV2.com General Discussion 24 04-11-2018 08:05 AM
After 5 months...still looking! AB7R 5th Wheel Discussion 34 01-09-2017 07:00 PM
After months of research decided to go with Entegra Coach Seascapeguy Entegra Owner's Forum 47 03-25-2014 11:18 AM
3 months and still waiting for a new dash JCM Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 15 09-28-2006 03:02 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.