Storage Slide Out Tray Parts

[markpj23]

I have what I believe are the Kwikee Super Slide ii trays. One of them no longer moves unless I pull or push the tray while I press the switch. I can hear gear teeth just slipping on a cog as I do this.
Today I found this beside the tray and it looks to be from the drive wheel. I think the drive motor has a gear that engages the inside cogs on the rubber. I have not yet taken the motor out to see - thought I would search for a parts diagram online but no luck.


Is this a replaceable part or do I have to buy a new motor assembly? All limit switches, etc seem to be fine, it's just that the drive motor will not engage correctly to move the tray.

[Sherpa Vern]

The product in the link below looks like it may be a solution to the difficulty in finding the parts or having someone else make them for you. The short video shows how the product is used to cast a gear, but casting a new tire should be even easier.

I think a simple mold could be made, something like a can trimmed to the right height, that is the correct diameter of the original wheels. After cleaning the balance of the old tire off of the wheel shaft and centered in the mold, you could be making your own replacements.

https://www.smooth-on.com/products/simpact-80a/

https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/pmc-790/

It might be a fun project. I'd love to help you, but won't be in Florida until January.

Product is available in Orlando at Reynolds Advanced Materials

Address: 6512 Pinecastle Blvd
Orlando, FL 32809
Phone: Toll-Free: (800) 328-8786
Local: (407) 856-6115
Fax: (407) 856-6116
Hours: Monday – Friday:
8:00 am – 5:30 pm

[theroc]

I've seen that problem being discussed on this forum as well as other RV forums but I'm not sure how easy it is to obtain the part. But yeah, it may be kind of fun to manufacture it yourself ...I don't know? I'm not that into fabrication so I'd hesitate to attempt to make one myself.

At any rate, it's called a "Storage Tray Urethane Drive Roller Wheel" and the only place I've seen that sells them (and it would be a special order) is the place that put out the video below, MasterTechRV and it appears they are currently charging about $75 for it.

Kwikee Storage Tray Urethane Drive Roller Wheel - MTRV store

Take a look at the video and you'll see he is describing the wheel and the same problem you apparently have.



eta: here's a thread from a few years ago that just caught my eye with the same problem but no solution was actually discussed ...the last post seems to suggest a similar solution as Sherpa Vern is proposing pertaining to fabricating at least the rubber part yourself??:

Kwikee cargo tray drive roller






.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iigTuKQ8rco&t=60s

[markpj23]

Originally Posted by theroc

I've seen that problem being discussed on this forum as well as other RV forums but I'm not sure how easy it is to obtain the part. But yeah, it may be kind of fun to manufacture it yourself ...I don't know? I'm not that into fabrication so I'd hesitate to attempt to make one myself.

At any rate, it's called a "Storage Tray Urethane Drive Roller Wheel" and the only place I've seen that sells them (and it would be a special order) is the place that put out the video below, MasterTechRV and it appears they are currently charging about $75 for it.

Kwikee Storage Tray Urethane Drive Roller Wheel - MTRV store

Take a look at the video and you'll see he is describing the wheel and the same problem you apparently have.



eta: here's a thread from a few years ago that just caught my eye with the same problem but no solution was actually discussed ...the last post seems to suggest a similar solution as Sherpa Vern is proposing pertaining to fabricating at least the rubber part yourself??:

Kwikee cargo tray drive roller

Many thanks for this - exactly what I need.

[markpj23]

Originally Posted by Sherpa Vern

The product in the link below looks like it may be a solution to the difficulty in finding the parts or having someone else make them for you. The short video shows how the product is used to cast a gear, but casting a new tire should be even easier.

I think a simple mold could be made, something like a can trimmed to the right height, that is the correct diameter of the original wheels. After cleaning the balance of the old tire off of the wheel shaft and centered in the mold, you could be making your own replacements.

https://www.smooth-on.com/products/simpact-80a/

https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/pmc-790/

So yesterday I took a close look at both of my slide-out trays. 4 of these drive wheels on each tray and EVERY ONE of them has the rubber off of them. I knew they chattered when opening, and one tray needs a 'push' to move, but this is ridiculous.
8 wheels times $75 is crazy. I guess this DIY project just got more interesting....

[Argosy]

There are a LOT of outfits that sell wheels, I got 1.8 million hits searching “urethane rubber wheels”. A few minutes measuring OD, width and bore should be all you need to find replacements.

[Sherpa Vern]

Originally Posted by markpj23

So yesterday I took a close look at both of my slide-out trays. 4 of these drive wheels on each tray and EVERY ONE of them has the rubber off of them. I knew they chattered when opening, and one tray needs a 'push' to move, but this is ridiculous.
8 wheels times $75 is crazy. I guess this DIY project just got more interesting....

I think renewing your wheels would be a fun project, but I enjoy a solution that can be accomplished without relying on others, or paying a ridiculous price for proprietary parts that likely could have been made to last. I would suggest the PMC 790 product that is harder than your original wheels, but will not squirm and release at the hubs.

Two 3lb trial size containers of PMC 790 ($45 ea) would likely make 8, .75 lb wheels with product left over. Add bottle of sealer/release ($20) for your mold and you would have $110 in materials to repair your wheels, instead of the replacement cost of $600. Most important, after a quick trip to Orlando, a bit of time in your garage and you will have new wheels, ready to install after the 24 hour cure time.

I find it interesting that Lippert does not seem to have these wheels and the vendor from the YouTube video lists them as "special order", despite saying they had them in stock on the video. These days, that means they are either unavailable, or that guy is remanufacturing them in his garage.

I did spend some time looking on industrial supply web sites, did not know the dimension of your wheels, but nothing I saw matched the shaft that is apparently unique to the motor or drive shaft that fits into your wheels. If found, I'm guessing that you can't buy them for $14.00 each.

EDIT: The wheels are 2.050" diameter. The hole for the shorter part of the metal shaft to drop into the mold to be flush with the tire side is 0.75".

If I were faced with these wheels failing, you would find me in the canned food aisle, looking for the perfect smooth sided can that matched the diameter of the wheels, to make my mold. Tomato paste comes to mind.

Forgive me, I grew up on a farm where you had to fix things, then spent 40 years in logistics with automated distribution centers that ran 24/7. I takes full time staff of mechanics, millwrights and creativity to keep things running. You can't always depend on suppliers or proprietary parts and be successful.

[markpj23]

Originally Posted by Sherpa Vern

...EDIT: The wheels are 2.050" diameter. The hole for the shorter part of the metal shaft to drop into the mold to be flush with the tire side is 0.75"....

I measured my wheels with a micrometer and came up with 2 - 1/8 in wheel diameter and 5/8" shaft. Did you find your info in a spec sheet or a measurement?
Two approaches to this come to my mind:


1- Spring for one $75 wheel and use it to cast a silicone mold.
- Pro: exact size, might be an easier way to go
- Con: more expensive due to wheel & mold supplies
2- "McGiver" a mold using a silicone muffin/cookie pan. I found one that has 2.1 inch round holes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RSSEEO1AY&th=1
- Pro: much cheaper
- Con: Will likely produce wheels that are slightly out of round. The challenge lies in making sure the wheel is dead center in the mold.

Open to any suggestions. I think I can use a 2-1/8" hole saw to mark dead center of the cookie pan with its pilot bit, then switch to a 5/8" hole saw using the same pilot bit to cut the hole for the shaft. I will of course run the drill backwards since the silicone rubber would tear / grab otherwise. Maybe I could first score the 5/8" hole and then use an arch punch to cut the hole? Hard to get an arch punch by itself to dead center.
I could also make a template to center the arch punch. Problem lies in finding a hole saw that leaves me with a cutout exactly 2-1/8" in diameter. The hole saw kerf leaves me 1/16" shy.

[Sherpa Vern]

Originally Posted by markpj23

I measured my wheels with a micrometer and came up with 2 - 1/8 in wheel diameter and 5/8" shaft. Did you find your info in a spec sheet or a measurement?
Two approaches to this come to my mind:


1- Spring for one $75 wheel and use it to cast a silicone mold.
- Pro: exact size, might be an easier way to go
- Con: more expensive due to wheel & mold supplies
2- "McGiver" a mold using a silicone muffin/cookie pan. I found one that has 2.1 inch round holes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RSSEEO1AY&th=1
- Pro: much cheaper
- Con: Will likely produce wheels that are slightly out of round. The challenge lies in making sure the wheel is dead center in the mold.

Open to any suggestions. I think I can use a 2-1/8" hole saw to mark dead center of the cookie pan with its pilot bit, then switch to a 5/8" hole saw using the same pilot bit to cut the hole for the shaft. I will of course run the drill backwards since the silicone rubber would tear / grab otherwise. Maybe I could first score the 5/8" hole and then use an arch punch to cut the hole? Hard to get an arch punch by itself to dead center.
I could also make a template to center the arch punch. Problem lies in finding a hole saw that leaves me with a cutout exactly 2-1/8" in diameter. The hole saw kerf leaves me 1/16" shy.

I would agree that it unnecessarily increases the cost, even if you could get your hands on a replacement wheel.

My kitchen experience is limited, but are the holes in a muffin tin tapered? That would make an odd replacement tire.

I agree that the silicone is likely not rigid enough to hold a shape and make a very good mold.

From the Lippert spec sheet below, the wheels are 2 1/16" in diameter and 9/16" wide. The closed end of the shaft, including the small step to the edge of the tire is 3/4".

Thin wall Metal Electric Tubing (EMT) has an ID of 2 1/16" and should be rigid enough to make a good mold. It is a common item, available at Home Depot, but sold in 10 foot sections and is way too expensive when you would only need a piece 9/16" long. An electrician or electrical supply vendor might have a scrap laying around. My guess is there are more than a few electricians in Florida these days, but are focused on more serious things. I'll keep looking for a source of an affordable fitting or other hardware store item to get the 9/16" piece that would work.

That piece 9/16" ht x 2 1/16" ID EMT conduit, attached to a flat piece of metal with a 3/4" hole centered on the 2 1/16' EMT, I think would make a useable mold.

Now to find a scrap of conduit or other like item. I look forward to pictures of your new wheels.

EDIT: 2" Schedule 40 ABS has an ID of 2 1/16" and its available and cheap. The local Home Depot here has 2' pieces for $9. TAP Plastics (tapplastics.com) has ABS sheets and a 1/8"x 4" x 4" sample is $2. Their stores are only on the west coast, but they should be able to mail a sample at a reasonable cost in a reasonable time frame. That would make it easy to glue those two pieces together and drill a 3/4" hole on the center.

At the cost of 2' of 2" ABS pipe, 8 ABS 1/8"x 4" x 4" samples and some glue, you could make 8 molds and be done in no time. Similar to making tiny bundt cakes.


This link below is to the Lippert build sheet for the wheels.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1667776642

[markpj23]

Originally Posted by Sherpa Vern

...This link below is to the Lippert build sheet for the wheels.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1667776642

Awesome link - many thanks for this.


So an easier mold would just be 2in PVC in a socket test cap that slides over the outside of the pipe but has a flat end vice the normal dome. Since the shaft 3/4in shoulder is so narrow, and only on one side, I'll just insert the flat side of the wheel going into the mold using a 5/8in hole for the shaft. This will make the wheel lie flush against the bottom of the mold. I hope to get less flashing that way.


Now off to gather materials. This will be fun....

[Sherpa Vern]

Originally Posted by markpj23

Awesome link - many thanks for this.


So an easier mold would just be 2in PVC in a socket test cap that slides over the outside of the pipe but has a flat end vice the normal dome. Since the shaft 3/4in shoulder is so narrow, and only on one side, I'll just insert the flat side of the wheel going into the mold using a 5/8in hole for the shaft. This will make the wheel lie flush against the bottom of the mold. I hope to get less flashing that way.


Now off to gather materials. This will be fun....

The test cap is a great idea.

I suggested the 3/4" hole to preserve the 1/16" shoulder that I thought must be there to create clearance away from where the end of the shaft is inserted, to prevent the wheel from touching and rubbing a bracket or side of the tray. Not knowing exactly how the wheel is mounted, I was just guessing.

In the pictures of the wheel on the MTRV Store, it looked like the wheels were originally poured from the side with the shaft open end up and was again why I was thinking the 3/4" hole. Clearly, there are most often, a couple ways to look at things and get the same results.

If that 1/16" gap becomes compromised pouring from the other side, I'm sure there are a few tools in your tool box or kitchen that can remove any excess material. I often have to remind myself that we are fixing things, not making watches or sending people to mars.

I'm happy that you are moving forward with this repair. I am looking forward to the pictures.

[markpj23]

I started a new thread with the details of how I refurbished my old wheels:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/diy-...ml#post6357577