Community Forums

Unplanned Tourist · 09-28-2022, 10:07 AM

One thing to consider is that water heater tanks have a small amount of air trapped in the top of the tank that acts as an accumulator to lessen the cycling of the water pump.

With a tankless system your pump will cycle more often, and the contacts in the pressure switch will wear faster.

When on city water, of course this won't matter.

SteveJ. · 09-28-2022, 11:37 AM

We have a 6 gal gas only Suburban. We do Navy showers using an Oxygenics shower head. We mostly boondock/dry camp.

What we do to mitigate the temperature swings, which can be substantial, we only heat the water tank to shower temperature as measured with a wireless meat thermometer.

Doing it this way has several advantages for us. There is no temperature shock when doing the Navy shower routine, we use less water and less propane. It takes about 2 quarts of water for the initial purge of cold water in the hot piping. We use that for coffee or iced tea. We recently lost our fresh water tanks and had to use a tote for fresh water. We able to ascertain that we only used a total of 2.5 gallons of water for two showers plus the purge water, thanks to not having to blend water for a comfortable shower and the Oxygenics shower head.

One disadvantage is we do have to heat water on the cooktop for dishes or other washup duties. With our plumbing system we would have to purge 3 quarts of water to get hot water from the kitchen faucet due to the plumbing setup, not something that is desirable for dry or boondock camping.

My wife was not originally on board with the Navy shower idea and sometimes left the shower running in dry camping scenarios. We struck a compromise. If she wanted to continue wasting water, she would be in charge of emptying and filling the tanks. She is now onboard with the conserving protocols.

153stars · 09-28-2022, 12:09 PM

I think some of new WH run higher temp and have mixing valve, giving you more hot water than ones set at non scaled temps.

Rookie RVer · 09-29-2022, 10:47 PM

Well, new question on the same subject. I was doing research and after our trip decided to flush the old water heater, Suburban SD6D. I not only got blue chips out (I assume that is the ceramic lining) but also got rust chips out. After a couple of flushes with a long wand I got clear water and I felt the inside bottom through the anode hole and nothing residual. Did this make my decision to replace a more immediate decision? I see no obvious evidence of leaking but younger know when you can't access under the heater. Is it time?

THenne1713 · 09-30-2022, 10:37 PM

Most will flush a LOT of the magnesium debris from the SACRIFICIAL ANODE. If over 70% gone, then replace anode, per MFR. You did not mention anode?

Rookie RVer · 10-02-2022, 09:12 AM

Yep, I replaced the anode in June. It was completely gone to only the carrier rod when I bought the coach but now the anode is in good shape with some deterioration. Glad you mentioned it because that could be the source of the rust particles I am seeing.

Dav L · 10-06-2022, 06:42 AM

just for kicks, what if you put a tankless before the current hot water tank? seems that would be the best of both, if you have the space and plumbing skills. The hot water tank would provide the initial hot water and the pump cycling air gap....the tankless would keep that hot as the water gets used.