There's gotta be a way...

[Dave78Chief]

I can appreciate what you mean John. I added the glass filters and pressure gauge in order to see what the heck was going on after getting stuck trying to get home in 95 degree weather. Unfortunant part is the fuel pickup tube in the stock Dodge tank does not appear to be removable and it may be the air leak problem. It is not attached to the fuel sender assembly. I am trying to modify a fuel sender assembly from an early Dodge van setup which has the pickup in the sender assembly. Been fun.

Dave

[Dave78Chief]

If want to know to what extremes those of us determined to keep these old girls running then here is an exelant example of solving fuel delivery problems:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f65/sypho...tml#post947566

Dave

[FleetMan]

My 383 powered Plymouth wagon of that era was always a problem til I replaced the carb with a Holley 780. That cured my "Chrysler" runability problems. I also added a mechanical choke.

[Hydrover]

yes dave, gets warm and wants to park, can go crank it any time there is no want to go on the road,, if a trip out is planned she will flood out a couple times to delay leaving and then start the every 20-30 mile break thing.
dont get me wrong, I am mechanically inclined, just not savey to Gasoline system problems

I also have problems with a gas tractor and a chainsaw that is allergic to wood ;-{)>

[Dave78Chief]

Hydrover,
If you want to rebuild your TQ carb, then here is an excellant writeup of the process:
Carter Thermoquad "Spreadbore" Stuff - IH ONLY NORTH
It based on a IH setup but the basics are the same.

Additionally, this is a good book about TQ carbs:
Amazon.com: How to Rebuild and Modify Carter/Edelbrock Carburetors: Performance, Street, and Off-Road Applications (9781932494365): Dave Emanuel: Books

Availble in paperback and Protected PDF format.

Dave

[Dave78Chief]

yes dave, gets warm and wants to park, can go crank it any time there is no want to go on the road,, if a trip out is planned she will flood out a couple times to delay leaving and then start the every 20-30 mile break thing.

Not sure what all modifications have been done so if something does not apply, then ignore it.

A) Stock fuel line from mechanical fuel pump to carb could be clogged allowing fuel to heat up and vaporize. Lays up against front and top of engine.
B) Stock fuel lines run from tanks to carb on inside of frame rail. While there is some heat shielding the lines can clog with rust with age. These restrictions make it easier for the fuel to heat up and vaporize the fuel.
C) The ignition module and ballast resistor (located on plate at rear of engine above bell housing) can be heat sensitve. I have seen them heat up and fail with odball symptoms.
D) If carburator has has not been rebuilt in several years then it most likely needs rebuilding. Not unusual for a motorhome to sit unused a lot. The gas turns to varnish plugging up the small passages inside.
E) Old cracked vacuum hoses can cause the engine to run lean.
F) Vacuum diaphrams on carburator attachments and the distributor do fail resulting in poor performance (Vacuum leaks).
G) Centrifugal advance and Vacuum advance mechanisms in Mopar electronic distibutors are known to get gummed up and sticky with age. This impacts both performance and economy. The pictures that go with this Mopar distributor rebulid article are accessed across the top but they are there. It covers both points and electronic distributors:
The Lost Art of... | Hemmings Motor News

My thought pattern is working on age related issues that take time to evolve. Afterall, it is 30 years old.

Dave

[wayneew1]

you my need to ck all or replace vacuum lines put vacuum gage ck vacuum
vacuum pump to ck egr and distributeur
ck plugs for gap

[TitanicPilot]

Hi Hydrover,
This is really a terrific forum! Lots of very knowledgeable people willing to help a stranger with a problem... pretty neat.

I've read all the posts and I think your problem has been identified; actually you have two problems:

1. Too much fuel when the engine is cold.
2. Too little fuel after it is warmed up.

The first problem can be caused by:

1. A choke that is out of adjustment. Get it adjusted or (best option) buy a rebuilt carb.
2. Too much fuel pressure. Install a fuel pressure regulator at the carb.

The second problem is vapor lock. Your fuel is being heated to the boiling point. Gasoline can start to boil as low as 120*F. This could be caused by:

1. The fuel line running close to a heat source like some part of the exhaust system.
2. Your carb is missing a heat shield or insulator between the carb and the intake manifold.
3. Your heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold is not opening up, causing an overheated intake manifold.

So there you are, all laid out for you. Good luck and let us know how you do.