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Old 10-14-2020, 02:50 PM   #15
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The sidewall rubber on a race tire is so thin you can see the fabric through it. The rubber in the inside of the carcass does the lions share of keeping the air in, and it's thin too.

I've never had race rubber hold air for more than a few months. American Racers by McCreary will bleed down in just a couple of days.
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Old 10-14-2020, 07:20 PM   #16
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If it’s cracked, I’m replacing it. A $500 tire can cause $10,000 worth of damage with a blowout. Why risk it?
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:30 AM   #17
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Correct. In fact when designing race tires I had no sidewall rubber added because race cars do not parallel park.
How about the other cars which rub up against a tire and the tire is instantly destroyed? Maybe it's time they started putting a layer or two on the sidewalls of race tires.
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Old 10-15-2020, 04:39 AM   #18
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tires

Thanks for all reply guys. Sometime in the past I believe I say "if you can put a dime in crack, replace"?. I could be mistaken. I get all the posts about replace no matter what. Just see no reason to replace if not needed. To me its a little like replacing brake fluid in cars? HUH? Been doing cars for over sixty years , never did or never will. Makes nonsense to me. Never any type situation oe even heard of one. Another subject.
Thanks again all.

safe travels
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Old 10-15-2020, 02:11 PM   #19
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How about the other cars which rub up against a tire and the tire is instantly destroyed?
Those car owners should buy Bridgestone tires.

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Old 10-15-2020, 04:02 PM   #20
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Tread makes no difference. Cracks in the sidewalls do. Get new ones or risk a blow out
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Old 10-16-2020, 03:36 PM   #21
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Really high speed racing (Indy), heavy high speed racing (NASCAR), and racing where there's a lot of rubbing (Endurance) you have safety liners and/or beefier tires. Still a lot thinner than the street.
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Old 10-17-2020, 08:41 AM   #22
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Really high speed racing (Indy), heavy high speed racing (NASCAR), and racing where there's a lot of rubbing (Endurance) you have safety liners and/or beefier tires. Still a lot thinner than the street.
Yet NASCAR still doesn't run an inner liner on tracks 1 mile or shorter. Makes no sense to me though as the short tracks are where the tires get a real beating including rubbing.
https://sports.yahoo.com/goodyear-br...l?guccounter=1
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Old 10-17-2020, 11:14 AM   #23
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My guess - not going fast enough to matter. Should be able to control the car when the tire deflates, and if not, not a hard hit into the wall.

Probably found that you could put more enough structure into the tire and reduce the mass significantly over a liner. The tire will heat up less, cool down faster on the shorter straights, accelerate and decelerate faster than if it had a liner.
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Old 10-17-2020, 01:11 PM   #24
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We just bought a near mint 2004 travel trailer with four original Goodyear ST's, little or no cracking, and like new tread depth. We've completed two towing adventures so far this year without incident... however after doing some research I may replace all four before doing any traveling next year. On the other hand, I also have a utility trailer with two 15" LT's from the 80's, now worn to the wear bars, but very minimal cracking. Never an issue so far... but I usually travel slow and light.


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Old 10-18-2020, 11:05 AM   #25
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We just bought a near mint 2004 travel trailer with four original Goodyear ST's, little or no cracking, and like new tread depth. We've completed two towing adventures so far this year without incident... however after doing some research I may replace all four before doing any traveling next year. On the other hand, I also have a utility trailer with two 15" LT's from the 80's, now worn to the wear bars, but very minimal cracking. Never an issue so far... but I usually travel slow and light.





Unless you have X-Ray vision you can't see the most likely area of structural damage. If "Steel Belted Radials" i would get them off as soon as possible
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:22 PM   #26
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IMHO, there are three criteria....tread, age and cracks. Might as well forget tread, virtually none of us will run the tread off tires. I swapped some Michelins last summer, five and a half years old and cracked. From what I read on here and other forums, Michelins are over rated and over priced.
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Old 10-20-2020, 08:04 PM   #27
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I just replace 2 tires that were 6 years old that had side wall cracks. We are going on a 2000 mile trip and I do not want to take a chance on a tire blowing at 65 to 70 MPH. There are enough RV with tire blow out on here that shows many people will not be able to respond fast enough. I have 22.5 tires and that is about a 7 inch drop when a tire blows.
I also have new valve stems put on every time I change tires. A friend of mine did not and on the way home their valve stem blew out. Lucky for her, her friend that was driving was a retired over the road truck driver and save the RV from rolling over. I too do not like spending money if I do not have to.
For me, my family is more important than a $500 tire. Steer tires I will not mess around with. I drove OTR and have no problem with drive tires blowing.
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:31 PM   #28
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Hello! I own a tire and auto repair (cars and light trucks) on the Eastern shore of MD.

To the member that posted the chart on staging of sidewall cracking, great visual guide.

Cracking is an MH owner bane...it comes with ownership. I've throw away tons of tires with 6/32" or more tread and sever cracking.

Sidewall cracking is not as much a concern compared to cracking along the shoulder and bead areas. You have a reason to be alarmed if there is significant cracking there.

FYI...Michelins will be the best tire you can ride on, but most susceptible to cracking.

Rubber loves to expand and contract...driving your MH frequently will help minimize cracking.

Lastly...make sure you are riding on the correct load range tires for your specific needs. You'd be surprised how many MH are riding on the wrong tire!

Let me know if I can help...and if you live me!
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