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Old 12-05-2021, 04:33 PM   #43
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Pictures of the old air filter and intake side of the turbo. Although I checked the engine manifold intake from the intercooler and found nothing, I am going to check the output to the intercooler. Bolts were rusted so they are soaking another day. Also have a picture of the fancy intake setup from the outside vent piped to the air filter. They simply squished the 6" inlet up against the pipe, clamp was not even attached to anything. Thinking I may turn the filter downward so water can drain and use a different fitting as an intake cover.

The rust and water marks are visible inside the filter.
With out seeeing turbo blade something sure dont look correct on 3 of the blaades- back side.Also i was told to never even touch them as you will throw off balance.You said you used a vacium thing to suck out oil ciuld it have given you a faalse reading or even not got all oil out? I would drain using the drain plug TO make sure .
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:01 PM   #44
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Just a possible cause though your oil loss is pretty substantial. A couple years ago I had the bright idea because our vehicle was getting older that I would use a heavier grade oil than recommended by the manufacturer. I think it was 20-40. We started using oil at a fairly high rate. A mechanic friend said it wasn't a good idea and I changed the oil back to 5-30 and the high oil consumption stopped immediately. The moral of the story to myself is stick with the manufacturers recommendations.
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:07 PM   #45
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I recommend you throw that evacuator away and drain the crankcase properly, so you get the crud out of the bottom of the oil pan. Those are only for lazy people or special cases where a proper drain is not possible.

Just my opinion.

When I bought my DP it had been sitting for 4 years. I lost 4 quarts of oil on the drive home. I found it all over the road. A gasket had dried and failed on the Cat while sitting so long. Replaced the gasket and all is well ever since, with no further leakage or usage of oil.
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:07 PM   #46
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Nothing but trouble with a Cummins engine. I have replaced 6 injectors the first time and 1 injector and a lift spring the second time. The cylinder was scored by the lose spring moving around and had to be relined. I have had to replace the 3 piece exhaust manifold. My 500 horse Cummins diesel has cost me close to $40,000 over the last two years. If you don’t have money to spare, stick with a gas engine. You could have some major diesel engine repairs coming up. Wait till you see the clouds of white smoke and the noise coming from your diesel and then the fun begins. Diesels are extremely expensive to keep running. Good luck and put money aside for repairs. My diesel had less than 70,000 miles on it when it needed all those repairs. Diesels lasting a half million miles is just a myth put out by diesel makers.
ZERO issues with Cummins and CAT diesels in the last 18 years.
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:33 PM   #47
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Lost oil

I know you checked it...But It really sounds like it was never full at the beginning. You don't know if your evacuator missed some, 'cause you measured what you got out, NOT what might have been missed. Kinda the same deal with the loose dipstick tube. The tube being out some has nothing to do with the evacuator. It would simply make the dipstick appear too short. The turbo has dirt not oil on it. The dirt gets into the induction system. That is a major problem. At the rate of oil loss you should have oil dripping. JMHO MOMCAT
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:41 PM   #48
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Oil Consumption

I had a diesel that stated using a couple of quarts per 100 miles. It was a cracked injector. When pulled you could see the wet injector
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:44 PM   #49
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As the smart guy said, check your dipstick tube. A 1/2 inch change in length of the dipstick tube would show a several quart loss of oil. As I remember from my 8.3, a 1/2 inch would be about 6-7 quarts.
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Old 12-05-2021, 06:19 PM   #50
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ZERO issues with Cummins and CAT diesels in the last 18 years.
Hey that fellow with all trouble with Cummins an Diesels in general needs to pronto tell truck manufactures they need to use Ford v10 an an Chevy an dODGE 300=600 HP GAS engines as there much cheaper to own an mantain an much lighter !!
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Old 12-05-2021, 06:31 PM   #51
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With out seeeing turbo blade something sure dont look correct on 3 of the blaades- back side.Also i was told to never even touch them as you will throw off balance.You said you used a vacium thing to suck out oil ciuld it have given you a faalse reading or even not got all oil out? I would drain using the drain plug TO make sure .

Actually the evacuator works from a fitting on the oil pan drain plug. It is a completely no spill operation. I use it on my 2005 Dodge Cummins also. I'll look at the blades again, thank you.
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Old 12-05-2021, 06:39 PM   #52
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I had a similar situation happen to me. I have an 04 Monaco dynasty with a isl Cummins in it. I pulled into a rest area and when I went around to check my toad, it had oil all over it. I checked under the coach, no oil on the engine so put on the coveralls and crawled under the engine. What I found really surprised me, the dip stick where it goes into the pan had separated. It appeared that it was broken internally. I ended up craving a twig down and forced it into the hole the dipstick came out of. Long story short, a lot of oil came out with very little on the engine. If I had not seen it on the toad, I would not have know. I also use shell Rotella to full synthetic. Doesn't use any oil at all, but can't fill it past half on the dip stick, don't know where it goes but it does0 until the level is at half..
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Old 12-05-2021, 07:00 PM   #53
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Jombull I'll check it, certainly would be an easier fix than I'm expecting. Thanks
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Old 12-05-2021, 07:28 PM   #54
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Amsoil synthetic is good for 100,000 miles if you use their air and oil filters. It is good for 15-25,000 miles in any case. Why buy synthetic if you are going to change at 6k miles? I was told my 8.8 liter Cummins ISL will go 15,000 on 7 gallons of Rotella T. Usually a year goes by with only 6 or 7k miles so it is changed well below the 15k nmark. As for where it went - if it burned 7 quarts in 200 miles you would have seen a smoke screen in your rear camera. I'm wondering if it were filled to the right level when it was changed. Reading dipsticks can be tricky - sometimes oil is in the tube from the last withdrawal. If you are not showing a leak, I don't think you have a problem. They just didn't fill it properly. Not stating a fact, just a possibility.
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Old 12-05-2021, 07:57 PM   #55
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If synthetic is used and it causes a problem, your problem was on it's way
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Old 12-05-2021, 08:00 PM   #56
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Seven quarts of oil in only 200 miles is entirely possible. However, the evidence shouldn't be too hard to find. Obviously, an external leak of that magnitude would be so severe that the amount of oil could actually make the leak difficult to spot. OTOH, I would expect an internal problem resulting in that much consumption to show a wet exhaust and/or visible smoke. The front of the toad should provide ample evidence if the engine is consuming that much oil.



The other alternative is operator error. An issue with the previous oil change?



FWIW, my experience is that operator errors outnumber mechanical faults by an easy margin.
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