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Old 02-03-2020, 04:40 PM   #15
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I agree with all you said above and thanks for taking the time to answer. I too carry a simple water pressure tester gauge and I am able to check the pressure at the tap. I also carry one of those cheap pre-set pressure regulators as a back up. So to agree with your point I could leave my setup in my wet bay... but when I arrive at a new site, first check the pressure and if it seems too high I could install the preset regulator before my wye to keep everyone around me and everything safe from pressure related failures if I find it to be unusually high.

We are only a month apart on join dates but you have about 7 times as many posts as I do.
I'm glad to hear we are probably on the same page on this subject. I wish more people understood that almost everything we do can have unintended consequences that may adversely affect other people and we should try to anticipate and mitigate those consequences.
Many people just don't know. Unfortunately, many other people know but just don't care. The 80/20 rule comes to mind.
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Old 02-03-2020, 10:01 PM   #16
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One issue you may consider...after each filter use between sites it is usually a good practice to flush the filter before connecting to the next site. You will be surprised to see how much sediment/rust that will flush out prior to clean filtered water..This will prevent the unwanted filtered sediment from entering your RV plumbing.
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Old 02-05-2020, 10:10 AM   #17
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I've looked at this thread a couple of times and thought I might add some thoughts.
First, I was a little set back at the sight of all the brass fittings and connections. The term "simplified" wouldn't be something that would come to mind when looking at this.
One poster said that it all about what works for you, this arrangement wouldn't be for me, but it will work.
A simple hook-up for me is to turn the water on, to flush out all the little critters that may have taken up residence, screw on the hose and turn on.
If the water pressure is suspect, then a pressure gage goes on first and if the pressure is excessive, then a regulator is the first item. If not, then just the hose.
I have stayed in a park that had over 100 psi water pressure. In your arrangement of fittings, you 're applying spigot pressure to the plastic filter and to the black tank flush system. Not a good idea if the pressure is excessive. The filter could split and spray water all over any open areas in the bay, and excessive pressure could pop a hose off the spray fittings of the black tank flush system. You say one hose is rated at 200 psi, but you have two hoses hooked up to the spigot. Is the flush system capable of handling 100 psi?

I don't like to run pressure regulators when they aren't needed because they tend to restrict the flow of water and the small pex fittings they now use restrict the water flow enough.

I also usually use a Y at the spigot, one for water supply, the other with a small spray head for washing hands outside and other water needs, including black tank flush. That's a direct line to the black tank flush fitting without 90* and other fittings to impede water flow, and only hooked up once a week, or as needed.

If I were to re-do your system, I would hook one hose to the spigot, no quick connect, because that's an extra step that serves no purpose. Run the 200psi single hose into the water bay to a regulator, then a Y, one to the coach water and the other to the black tank flush system, add all the on/off valves you want. I would prefer the plastic filter outside, after the regulator if you have to have the filter.

I also empty and cap all my hoses when disconnected to prevent any little critters that can get in the hose from being transferred into the coach water system. I think that would be a little hard to do with the quick connect fittings. I've used them in the past, but because of convenience and leakage, they all went by the wayside, plus the time will come when you forget the fitting on the spigot when you leave.
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Old 02-05-2020, 12:12 PM   #18
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From the post that alank wrote above....

Thank you for your comments, I will try to answer everything below.

I chose the red color as I have seen many others on here use it and it stands out from the black.... Its NOT a color used to imply anger.

The reason for this thread I started with my ideas and pictures, is to bring out and connect the LEAST amount possible by leaving the regularly used/connected items mounted in the bay.


I've looked at this thread a couple of times and thought I might add some thoughts.
First, I was a little set back at the sight of all the brass fittings and connections. The term "simplified" wouldn't be something that would come to mind when looking at this. Yes there are a LOT of fittings (more than 10). The reason I use all the different fittings is to get it all to fit in my space... and second, lay flat with no stress or weight on any of the connections when stationary or bouncing down the road. Also the term "simplified" is referring to having to carry in and out and connect these items regularly, I am instead connecting them semi-permanently, to leave them in the wet bay, therefore bringing out and connecting the minimum.
One poster said that it all about what works for you, this arrangement wouldn't be for me, but it will work.
A simple hook-up for me is to turn the water on, to flush out all the little critters that may have taken up residence, screw on the hose and turn on.
If the water pressure is suspect, then a pressure gage goes on first and if the pressure is excessive, then a regulator is the first item. If not, then just the hose.
I have stayed in a park that had over 100 psi water pressure. In your arrangement of fittings, you 're applying spigot pressure to the plastic filter and to the black tank flush system. Not a good idea if the pressure is excessive. I agree and have decided to move the pressure regulator to the first position directly on the spigot as you and many others have also recomended The filter could split and spray water all over any open areas in the bay, and excessive pressure could pop a hose off the spray fittings of the black tank flush system. You say one hose is rated at 200 psi,I never said this someone else said "they" have a 200 psi house... not me but you have two hoses hooked up to the spigot. Is the flush system capable of handling 100 psi? Probably not.. very good point!

I don't like to run pressure regulators when they aren't needed because they tend to restrict the flow of water and the small pex fittings they now use restrict the water flow enough. So you take one measurement and assume that is the pressure that will continue as long as you stay? How can you predict when a surge in water pressure will occur? For reference I do set my pressure regulator to about 65lbs of pressure, I feel that gives me good pressure and is still safe to my coach's system. Ive been told my RV is rated to 100lbs but Im never going to test it that high.

I also usually use a Y at the spigot, one for water supply, the other with a small spray head for washing hands outside and other water needs, including black tank flush. That's a direct line to the black tank flush fitting without 90* and other fittings to impede water flow, and only hooked up once a week, or as needed. I guess you don't travel like my family does. I have never stayed in one campsite for more than 6 days in a row. Sometimes I am doing hookups 5-6 days in a row in different campsites in different states each day as I am moving to a multi-day stop destination. I flush the black tank every time before I unhook and leave some clean water in the tank. Also those factory hookups to your coach are eventually going to wear out by the constant hooking and unhooking of the threads. My way takes the pressure and wear and tear off of that main coach connection. I hook my 90 up once, and its good for years, If the 90 fails somehow, as its a solid brass part, its a $5 part easily replaced (I carry spares) and not the main coach connector which is more difficult to replace.

If I were to re-do your system, I would hook one hose to the spigot, no quick connect, because that's an extra step that serves no purpose. I agree, but I never said that I did a quick connect at the spigot Run the 200psi single hose into the water bay to a regulator, then a Y, one to the coach water and the other to the black tank flush system, add all the on/off valves you want. I would prefer the plastic filter outside, after the regulator if you have to have the filter. Are you suggesting water filers are optional? I use the blue in the picture and also have a second built-in whole coach filter. I use the filters EVERY time and EVERY place I hook up. Some people have more....many more.

I also empty and cap all my hoses when disconnected to prevent any little critters that can get in the hose from being transferred into the coach water system. I think that would be a little hard to do with the quick connect fittings. Exactly the opposite.... I click one end into the other, and make and an air/water tight closed hose....one end of the hose has a male quick connect the other end has the female I've used them in the past, but because of convenience and leakage, they all went by the wayside, I buy the pricy ones and in years only had one leak after years of use, if anything would fail its usually just the rubber washers and I carry spares plus the time will come when you forget the fitting on the spigot when you leave.I have consistently stated that the wye is directly on the spigot and Ive never left one behind so I'm not sure what else to say....


Thank you again for your comments and I hope my answers help clarify my intentions for doing this.

To the rest of you that have commented, thank you also, I am going outside to implement and change the setup based on your smart and sensible recommendations!
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Old 02-05-2020, 03:11 PM   #19
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I arrive at a CG with a full tank of water and we live from the water tank for around a week before needing a refill.
Then I open the CG spigot to flush, I grab a small amount after the flush and test it. If it tests high in iron or looks mirky I will add specific filters. I test the pressure at the spigot and if it's less than 65psi I don't bother with a regulator. I hook a carbon sediment filter and from that filter I connect a manifold of filters with at least 2 more, maybe 3, depending on the water quality. I fill the water tank and start the process over again. I top off the tank before departing the CG.
If you drink the CG water I would consider more filtering. When I bought my coach the black tank rinse "screen" at the connection point was so plugged by minerals that I'm surprised that they could get any water through it. You have no sediment filter on your black rinse hose (that I can see) so you'll have the same problem if you camp in the rust belt of the midwest. I found the same mineral problem at every tap in the coach. I had to hunt down screens (original Moen faucets) for all of the taps.
One more thing- you need to fill that big hole so mice don't follow the hose into your basement and then find a way into the house.
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Old 02-05-2020, 03:40 PM   #20
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Quote from : RKins

Thanks, lots more things I didn't think about!

I arrive at a CG with a full tank of water and we live from the water tank for around a week before needing a refill. No real reason but I have always used the city hook up directly to the coach VS. filling the tank and water pump way. Possibly because I travel with as many as 5... wife and I and 3 grown kids. I feel with showers and laundry I would be filling it almost daily. My way, maybe not better but I never worry about running out of water.
Then I open the CG spigot to flush, I grab a small amount after the flush and test it. If it tests high in iron or looks mirky I will add specific filters. I test the pressure at the spigot and if it's less than 65psi I don't bother with a regulator. You are the second post in a row that said they use the pressure regulator when needed... Im confused... I figured it was like an electricity surge protector, you never know when it will happen, so use it all the time. I hook a carbon sediment filter and from that filter I connect a manifold of filters with at least 2 more, maybe 3, depending on the water quality. I fill the water tank and start the process over again. I top off the tank before departing the CG.
If you drink the CG water I would consider more filtering. We never drink the water. When I bought my coach the black tank rinse "screen" at the connection point was so plugged by minerals that I'm surprised that they could get any water through it. You have no sediment filter on your black rinse hose (that I can see) so you'll have the same problem if you camp in the rust belt of the midwest. I found the same mineral problem at every tap in the coach. This is a real problem that I never thought of. I just figured if its going into the black tank thru the sprayers, any sediment would just come out the sprayers larger holes.I had to hunt down screens (original Moen faucets) for all of the taps.
One more thing- you need to fill that big hole so mice don't follow the hose into your basement and then find a way into the house.[/QUOTE] I don't want to say its probably impossible...BUT... In my coach the compartments are molded, one-piece, thick, plastic. They have no direct penetration to the coach and are separated from each other. IF one got in, it would simply run around not being able to really go any where and eventual leave. But yes, he could do some damage first by chewing wires on the water pump or hoses but nothing really that much to get into and definitely no food down there. In my 10 years of owning RV's I've never had one occurrence with rodents How do you suggest to close it? It is the factory opening with lid.
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Old 02-05-2020, 10:55 PM   #21
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A lot of folks are playing Russian Roulette when they assume they can measure the water pressure at the hose bibb ONCE and if it is satisfactory they hook up a hose without putting a pressure reducer in front of it. There are a number of factors that can cause the pressure at a campsite hose bibb to vary quite a bit over a 24 hour period or during the same time period on different days of the week.
If an industrial area is nearby with heavy consumers of water the pressure may be lower than normal while they are operating. If high density housing is nearby the water pressure may be lower than average when many people are taking their morning showers in preparation for going to work. If the water supplier changes from one source to a different source with a higher elevation and head pressure or shuts off your supply for repairs then restores it suddenly it can cause a high pressure surge in the line.
I think it would be wise to check your water pressure with a 2 needle water gauge where one needle shows the current pressure while a second needle displays the highest pressure experienced since you reset the needle to zero. It would be prudent to check pressures over a 24 hour period during the work week and also on a weekend.
https://www.zoro.com/winters-max-poi...IaAldOEALw_wcB
https://www.quora.com/What-can-cause...ecommended-PSI
https://www.waterone.org/customer-se...water-pressure
Myself, I just fill my fresh water tank and operate from it using the pump until I need to dump and refill it as I seldom use FHUs. I can then do my pressure checks at my leisure. On the rare occasions I keep my water hose hooked up I use a pressure reducer on the hose bibb, then a Y fitting. On one leg of the Y is a stainless steel screen in a clear plastic screw housing for catching any large goop before it gets to my 10" sediment filter followed by my 10" carbon block filter. Only then does the water of unknown quality enter my coach's plumbing. The other leg of the Y has the recording water pressure gauge on it during testing. The rest of the time an expanding hose is connected for washing the car, coach or motorcycle and putting out refrigerator fires or campfires. The highest and best use though is for chasing kids off my lawn.[emoji41]
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Old 02-06-2020, 04:39 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by AZ RV'r View Post
Quote from : RKins

Thanks, lots more things I didn't think about!

I arrive at a CG with a full tank of water and we live from the water tank for around a week before needing a refill. No real reason but I have always used the city hook up directly to the coach VS. filling the tank and water pump way. Possibly because I travel with as many as 5... wife and I and 3 grown kids. I feel with showers and laundry I would be filling it almost daily. My way, maybe not better but I never worry about running out of water.
Most people use City Water setting for that very reason - it's just my wife and I, so no need to fill often. Some use the fresh tank with a "auto fill" setting. I like to use the fresh tank/water pump so I know if there is a leak in the water system. If I hear the pump running when there is no tap open, I have a leak somewhere and can investigate.

Then I open the CG spigot to flush, I grab a small amount after the flush and test it. If it tests high in iron or looks mirky I will add specific filters. I test the pressure at the spigot and if it's less than 65psi I don't bother with a regulator. You are the second post in a row that said they use the pressure regulator when needed... Im confused... I figured it was like an electricity surge protector, you never know when it will happen, so use it all the time. If I left the CG spigot on all the time I agree and I would have my regulator on it. I only open the spigot (and connect my hose) when filling the tank.

I hook a carbon sediment filter and from that filter I connect a manifold of filters with at least 2 more, maybe 3, depending on the water quality. I fill the water tank and start the process over again. I top off the tank before departing the CG.
If you drink the CG water I would consider more filtering. We never drink the water. When I bought my coach the black tank rinse "screen" at the connection point was so plugged by minerals that I'm surprised that they could get any water through it. You have no sediment filter on your black rinse hose (that I can see) so you'll have the same problem if you camp in the rust belt of the midwest. I found the same mineral problem at every tap in the coach. This is a real problem that I never thought of. I just figured if its going into the black tank thru the sprayers, any sediment would just come out the sprayers larger holes.I had to hunt down screens (original Moen faucets) for all of the taps.
One more thing- you need to fill that big hole so mice don't follow the hose into your basement and then find a way into the house.
I don't want to say its probably impossible...BUT... In my coach the compartments are molded, one-piece, thick, plastic. They have no direct penetration to the coach and are separated from each other. IF one got in, it would simply run around not being able to really go any where and eventual leave. But yes, he could do some damage first by chewing wires on the water pump or hoses but nothing really that much to get into and definitely no food down there. In my 10 years of owning RV's I've never had one occurrence with rodents How do you suggest to close it? It is the factory opening with lid.[/QUOTE]
Here is a link to a thread on this that shows different methods (I use bronze wool to plug any holes)

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/rod...-348431-2.html
Don't forget where the electric cord enters the rig too.
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:27 AM   #23
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To the OP. Are you a teacher?
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:46 AM   #24
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No black water hose should ever be connected in any kind of header or splitter

Black hoses should be kept segregated from all other hoses, filters and so on and stored like the slinky

If using the black water hose at your site the potable hose should be disconnected and moved away off the ground

Flush the black water tank, drain the hose away from the spigot and store in a container

Flush the spigot, disinfect, reconnect the potable water
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:59 AM   #25
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To the OP. Are you a teacher?


No, but my wife is.
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Old 02-09-2020, 01:50 PM   #26
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I bought what I thought was good brass quick connects at Lowe’s but had leakage problems from the get-go. They now reside in my spare part box. Wish they would have worked!
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Old 02-09-2020, 02:29 PM   #27
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To each their own, but I personally don't think the black tank needs flushed often enough to have a permanent water line hooked up. Many rvs have been flooded by the black tank flush. Besides the ability to flood the rv due to inattentiveness, the anti syphon valves have been known to leak, and flood the rv as well. They are often hidden under a sink, or in a wall. If used properly, the tank doesn't need flushed often enough that I cant hook the hose up when it does. Does anyone have any evidence that using the black tank flush has any benefits really. People complain that the tank level gauges aren't accurate, yet they, "flush all the time". Other than adding a bit of water at the end of draining the tank, I cant see many other benefits. I can flush the toilet a few times and accomplish that. Just my opinion. I think the risks outweigh the benefits. I don't like floods.
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:36 PM   #28
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To each their own, but I personally don't think the black tank needs flushed often enough to have a permanent water line hooked up. Many rvs have been flooded by the black tank flush. Besides the ability to flood the rv due to inattentiveness, the anti syphon valves have been known to leak, and flood the rv as well. They are often hidden under a sink, or in a wall. If used properly, the tank doesn't need flushed often enough that I cant hook the hose up when it does. Does anyone have any evidence that using the black tank flush has any benefits really. People complain that the tank level gauges aren't accurate, yet they, "flush all the time". Other than adding a bit of water at the end of draining the tank, I cant see many other benefits. I can flush the toilet a few times and accomplish that. Just my opinion. I think the risks outweigh the benefits. I don't like floods.
Agree!

Personally, I don't mind hooking up the utilities at all because it's a part of the camping experience. Maybe because I use the KISS principle. The regulator stays mounted on the Y so all I have to do is screw the Y onto the spigot, attach the hose to the regulator, fill the hose, and then hook the other end of the hose to the motorhome. Takes less than a minute to do this.

I've never had a desire to have a black tank flush connection on any of the rigs we've owned. I'm sure there are some RV plumbing systems that aren't set up well that can benefit from a flush but I have never run across one in my 40 something years of RV travel.
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