Water heater

[Jmac00]

electric continuity only has one meaning as far as I know

Set your Multimeter to resistance, or in my case a Fluke 16 has a continuity setting.

Remove the wires from the element and check for resistance between the two screws. You should get a reading between 5 and 55, if you do the element is good. If you get a reading of less than 5 or zero, the element is open, and no good

If you go from the either screw terminal to ground, the element is shorted and no good

It should make no difference whether the water is hot or not. as long as the wires have been removed from the terminals

[Billnlynda]

Heat exchange (engine coolant). I saw hoses going into it. What does that do.

[Billnlynda]

This sight is awesome and I want to thank all of you for your advice. I now know my hot water heater inside out. Lol

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Billnlynda

Heat exchange (engine coolant). I saw hoses going into it. What does that do.

While in transit the hot coolant from engine flows thru a 'heat exchanger' (tube) and heats the water.
After couple hours of drive time the water should be around 130*F ----hot water upon arrival at destination

[Billnlynda]

I was just thinking. The switch inside our coach that you use to turn on the electric heat. It was never lit so we really never knew if it was on or off. Does it light up when on do you know

[theroc]

Originally Posted by Billnlynda

I was just thinking. The switch inside our coach that you use to turn on the electric heat. It was never lit so we really never knew if it was on or off. Does it light up when on do you know

Yes, the switch is supposed to be lit when in the on position.

Those water heater switches are infamous for the light burning out. We replaced ours several times until I read about the fix that several on this forum and other RV forums have suggested by wiring a "diode in series" to drop the voltage a bit once you replace the switch.

From my notes, the switch is a JR #12045 and can be ordred from RV parts vendors or on Amazon for less than $10.

The least expensive place to probably order one online is from RVupgrades (an iRV2 sponsor and forum founder) as they have it for $6.99. They are an excellent online vendor with good service, excellent customer support, and fast shipping. --go HERE

The other alternative that others have used is to find a switch that uses an LED or I've even heard that some have even modified the JR switch with a small LED.



eta: Hey! ...it looks as if JR Products has upgraded that switch as the description now says it does have an LED !!!!

[Rkesselus]

Originally Posted by Jmac00

ok. educate me has to how that would be possible?

Stick your meter leads into a cup of water and see what you get. water is a conductor of electricity here is a site that explains this: https://www.scienceabc.com/pure-scie...ure-wrong.html

[Billnlynda]

If I put a new switch in and have not changed the heating element will it burn the light out on the switch?

[GNP99]

Follow the troubleshooting in the Atwood service manual, link is in Post #3. Specifically page 14 is for the heating element and ECO/thermostat. Didn't see where any mentioned resetting the ECO button, also on the back of the W/H. That was the problem with my Winne Adventurer, the ECO had tripped. reset and heating element worked fine.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by GNP99

Follow the troubleshooting in the Atwood service manual, link is in Post #3. Specifically page 14 is for the heating element and ECO/thermostat. Didn't see where any mentioned resetting the ECO button, also on the back of the W/H. That was the problem with my Winne Adventurer, the ECO had tripped. reset and heating element worked fine.

No mention of resetting ECO BECAUSE OPs model/year does NOT have a resettable ECO and it is NOT located with element.
Atwood 4E versions (since design change in 2004) use only one set of t-stat/ECO for electric and propane which are located in outside compartment with the common circuit board.
T-stat & ECO are self resetting when temps cool down
T-stat Opens/140*F---Closes/110*F
ECO Opens/180*F----Closes/150*F


System needs to be reset IF ECO Opens....turn on/off switch OFF--wait 30 seconds---turn back ON
If ECO has Opened...t-stat is most likely faulty and should be replaced

[GNP99]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

No mention of resetting ECO BECAUSE OPs model/year does NOT have a resettable ECO and it is NOT located with element.
Atwood 4E versions (since design change in 2004) use only one set of t-stat/ECO for electric and propane which are located in outside compartment with the common circuit board.
T-stat & ECO are self resetting when temps cool down
T-stat Opens/140*F---Closes/110*F
ECO Opens/180*F----Closes/150*F


System needs to be reset IF ECO Opens....turn on/off switch OFF--wait 30 seconds---turn back ON
If ECO has Opened...t-stat is most likely faulty and should be replaced

Just going by what is in the manual, note item 3


Current production water heaters with the 110 VAC
heating option use a screw-in heating element, a
separate pre-set thermostat and a separate ECO.
The screw-in heating element is rated at 1400 watts
just like the bolt-on element. It is an incalloy element
and can be run for a limited amount of time in a dry
tank without shorting out.
CAUTION: If the heating element is allowed to run
with a dry tank, allow the tank to cool down for 2-3
hours before adding water. Adding water before
the tank cools sufficiently could collapse the tank.
The thermostat and ECO are pre-set surface-mounted
discs. The thermostat is set at 140° F and is the same
thermostat used on the gas side of the electronic
ignition water heaters. The ECO is a backup
thermostat and will trip if the thermostat fails and the
water temperature exceeds 170° F.



When the 110VAC portion of the water heater is not
heating water, the following diagnostic steps and
repairs should be investigated:
Turn POWER OFF to the appliance before removing
junction box cover.
Perform the following steps with POWER ON to
water heater.
1. Verify switch is in ON position.
2. Insure there is 110VAC to the unit (measure
voltage across the black and white lead to the
appliance with POWER ON). If none, trace wiring
back and make appropriate wire repair.
Perform the following steps with POWER OFF to
water heater.
3. Manual reset ECO high limit switch-A should be
depressed. Check for continuity between
TERMINAL B and TERMINAL C of ECO.
4. Check for continuity between TERMINAL D and
TERMINAL E of thermostat. If there is none, replace
thermostat.
5. If water is insufficiently hot, insure thermostat is
flush with tank.
6. Verify a good wire connection between ECO
TERMINAL-C and heating element TERMINAL-F.
Correct if necessary.
7. Check for continuity between heating element
TERMINAL-F and TERMINAL-G. If none, element is bad
and should be replaced. Do not over-tighten selftapping
screws when installing new element.
8. There should NOT BE CONTINUITY between element
screw-G and flange of element. If there is, element
has shorted. Element should be replaced.
9. Verify ground connection.
NOTE: Heating element can be operated on an empty
tank for a limited period of time before it self destructs.
Ground
Switch
Element
Fixed Thermostat
Manual Reset
High Temperature
Limit Switch
( 3 )-GREEN
( 1 )-BLACK BLACK
( 2 )-WHITE BLACK
Hot

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by GNP99

Just going by what is in the manual, note item 3


Current production water heaters with the 110 VAC
heating option use a screw-in heating element, a
separate pre-set thermostat and a separate ECO.
The screw-in heating element is rated at 1400 watts
just like the bolt-on element. It is an incalloy element
and can be run for a limited amount of time in a dry
tank without shorting out.
CAUTION: If the heating element is allowed to run
with a dry tank, allow the tank to cool down for 2-3
hours before adding water. Adding water before
the tank cools sufficiently could collapse the tank.
The thermostat and ECO are pre-set surface-mounted
discs. The thermostat is set at 140° F and is the same
thermostat used on the gas side of the electronic
ignition water heaters. The ECO is a backup
thermostat and will trip if the thermostat fails and the
water temperature exceeds 170° F.



When the 110VAC portion of the water heater is not
heating water, the following diagnostic steps and
repairs should be investigated:
Turn POWER OFF to the appliance before removing
junction box cover.
Perform the following steps with POWER ON to
water heater.
1. Verify switch is in ON position.
2. Insure there is 110VAC to the unit (measure
voltage across the black and white lead to the
appliance with POWER ON). If none, trace wiring
back and make appropriate wire repair.
Perform the following steps with POWER OFF to
water heater.
3. Manual reset ECO high limit switch-A should be
depressed. Check for continuity between
TERMINAL B and TERMINAL C of ECO.
4. Check for continuity between TERMINAL D and
TERMINAL E of thermostat. If there is none, replace
thermostat.
5. If water is insufficiently hot, insure thermostat is
flush with tank.
6. Verify a good wire connection between ECO
TERMINAL-C and heating element TERMINAL-F.
Correct if necessary.
7. Check for continuity between heating element
TERMINAL-F and TERMINAL-G. If none, element is bad
and should be replaced. Do not over-tighten selftapping
screws when installing new element.
8. There should NOT BE CONTINUITY between element
screw-G and flange of element. If there is, element
has shorted. Element should be replaced.
9. Verify ground connection.
NOTE: Heating element can be operated on an empty
tank for a limited period of time before it self destructs.
Ground
Switch
Element
Fixed Thermostat
Manual Reset
High Temperature
Limit Switch
( 3 )-GREEN
( 1 )-BLACK BLACK
( 2 )-WHITE BLACK
Hot

That's all well and good....
IF you had read the Introduction (1st page 2nd paragraph) you would have read this:
In 2003, Atwood relocated the Switch, Thermostat and ECO that was installed on the back of combination 6 and 10 gallon Gas/Electric Water Heaters.

A double switch is now located inside the RV for convenience and a joint ECO and T-Stat is located on the gas side of the water heater.

This leaves only the relay and heating element on the backside of the water heater


The info you posted from manual is under the PILOT Model Section which DO use that element-t-stat/ECO set up on backside because the propane gas valve has it's own temp/over temp controls


That manual is also lacking information for the Electronic Model elements and DC Controls used.
GC6A-9E and GC10A-3E are OLD models with separate controls
GC6A-10E and GC10-4E (and all versions of 10E/4E) are completely different designs/DC controls etc.


OP has a GCH10-4E and the info I posted is correct/pertains to his model.


Atwood had available a Service Manual that was updated and covered the 4E/10E conversions but in 2017 when Dometic acquired Atwood a LOT of really good resource manuals are no longer available

[Jmac00]

Originally Posted by Rkesselus

Stick your meter leads into a cup of water and see what you get. water is a conductor of electricity here is a site that explains this: https://www.scienceabc.com/pure-scie...ure-wrong.html

the element is a tube submerged in the water. The Element (the heater part) at no time ever comes in contact with the water. If it did there would be a dead short and the fuse/circuit breaker would blow. ,

[Rkesselus]

Originally Posted by Jmac00

the element is a tube submerged in the water. The Element (the heater part) at no time ever comes in contact with the water. If it did there would be a dead short and the fuse/circuit breaker would blow. ,

You are correct, however this all started out on how to test if a element is good or bad. Obviously if the element is still good it will show continuity when ohmed but if it is bad and the sheath has been compromised (carroided) then the electric coils will be exposed to the water and if so it will also show continuity. If the sheath is compromised the overload in the thermostat will trip and the breaker will not be affected. Ask your plumber.