Community Forums

Djfan · 08-15-2020, 07:46 AM

I can't figure out how to light them. The instructions say to turn lighting control to off. I don't see anything that can be turned on or off.

Same with the furnace. I can't see any place that I should light, turn, push, etc.

I have a 2006 Terry 279 fqs TT.

Thanks!

TXiceman · 08-15-2020, 08:00 AM

For quiet a few years now, the RVs have a DSI (direct spark ignition) on the water heater and furnace, There is no pilot to light. Your water heater may be both electric and propane. There should be a panel for the water heater in the kitchen area or in a common control panel. if it has electric, there will be two switches, one like a regular light switch and the other inside the water heater cover panel. It is a safety to prevent you from operating the water heater with no water.

On the furnace, there should be a thermostat that you turn on and set the temperature. It make take several start cycles to clear the line of air. Turn on a burner at the stove top and light it first to get gas to that point.

Sounds like you are new to the trailer. Didn't the previous owner leave the manual with it? If not, contact him for the manuals.

Ken

Djfan · 08-15-2020, 08:15 AM

OK, I think that I figured out the furnace. It has nothing to light, just throw a switch? Seems too simple.

Is the hot water heater run off the same switch, or is there a separate system? The owners manual says that there are bypass valves for the hit water tank, but I can't find them.

Thanks for the rookie time here.

Djfan · 08-15-2020, 08:18 AM

I am new, and he did give me a manual. It only has general info, and legal stuff. It's a bit frustrating. These systems have evaded me, probably due to it being much simpler than I expected.

Thanks for your time.

450Donn · 08-15-2020, 08:22 AM

What brand of water heater? Suburbans have a small switch down low on the left side. On is electric, off is off. There should be a switch somewhere inside to start the gas side.

Ljwt330 · 08-15-2020, 08:31 AM

First of all, welcome, and don't be afraid to ask as many questions as you need.

The systems in your trailer are all made by vendors to the trailer manufacturer. One of the first steps you can take is do a little exploring and find out the make and model of each appliance--in this case, the furnace and water heater. Then, go on-line and find the owner's manual for each as 99% of the time they are posted. Make hard copies and carry them with you.

You will need to investigate your trailer and find all the appliance locations, just to familiarize yourself with where they are and what's surrounding them. The water heater, for example, will need to be investigated to find the by-pass valves.

Now, to directly answer your question. The water heater is on a separate system from the furnace. Depending on the make and model, you may or may not have a switch inside the trailer. You need to know if the heater is gas only, direct spark ignition, or gas/electric. We cannot advise accurately beyond this until you let us know the brand and model of the heater. What can be said is that there are really only two heater manufacturers, Atwood (Dometic) and Suburban, but each maker has slightly different control systems as well as gas or gas/electric water heaters.

Post all new information, and you'll get lots of responses.

Djfan · 08-15-2020, 08:35 AM

I am pretty sure it's an Atwood.

Bill 3rd · 08-15-2020, 08:41 AM

That is an Atwood, the name is on the label on the right. I can see by the picture the gas is direct spark ignition (DSI), there's nothing to light. There should be 2 switches inside your rv for the water heater, one for electric and one for gas. That model should be able to use both gas and electric at the same time for quick recovery, or either alone for normal use. They should be on the control panel. Also, it has an aluminum tank, so it does not have or need an anode rod, that is why it has a plastic drain plug, use Teflon tape when replacing it.

Djfan · 08-15-2020, 08:54 AM

Appreciate it. So simple, that it confounded me.

arcaguy · 08-15-2020, 08:55 AM

Just a heads up, don't try to light/operate the water heater without ensuring there is water in it. You can cause severe damage very quickly especially in electric mode. Many if not most water heaters have a bypass system installed so even if you have cold water coming out of the hot water side of faucets it doesn't necessarily mean that the tank on the heater is full. Just be careful and you will get it figured out, I'm just trying to save you some expensive education.

Bill 3rd · 08-15-2020, 09:00 AM

The bypass valves should be on the tubing behind the hot water tank. Just align them so there is water going in and out, but the crossover for winterizing is closed.
Just relax and enjoy your travels. If you need help, don't be afraid to ask other campers, we've all been newbies at one time.

Djfan · 08-15-2020, 09:14 AM

I can't get to the water tank. I can see it if I push a wooden panel I. My bathroom back in a bit, but don't see any other access.

We are hooked up to city water. Does that fill it automatically? If not, where could I find valves to open it up?

Bill 3rd · 08-15-2020, 09:21 AM

It fills if the valves are right. I'm not sure where the access is on yours. There should be a panel you can remove, either behind or next to it. My son-in-law's trailer has the access panel to the valves outside in one of the compartments. It is held in place by screws.

Ljwt330 · 08-15-2020, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Djfan

I can't get to the water tank. I can see it if I push a wooden panel I. My bathroom back in a bit, but don't see any other access.

We are hooked up to city water. Does that fill it automatically? If not, where could I find valves to open it up?

City water may fill the hot water tank, but only if the by-pass valves are set correctly, as others have said.

What you can do since you are hooked up to city water, is to very briefly open the pressure relief valve on the water heater. If you hear a rush of air, the tank is pressurized from the incoming cold water and that means the incoming by-pass valve is open, at least. Don't hold the relief valve open too long or else you will need to reestablish the air pocket.

You will still need to find out how to access the rear of the water heater as any repairs to the electrical element or other connections are at the rear. Keep looking inside, directly behind the water heater, and maybe you will find a cabinet floor or wall that is removable. As mentioned, maybe an adjacent outside compartment has a panel that can be removed.