Community Forums

RVwheels · 09-08-2012, 08:59 PM

Has anyone experienced this problem? After sitting empty for four months, went to use the water heater and could get no water out of it. It does fill (bypass value does work correctly) but will not deliver any water. It heats up Ok with either electric or gas. I tried cleaning out by removing the anode rod, disconnecting the hot water line on the rear and "back flushing" with air as well with pressured water. Could get no air nor water into the tank via those methods. Is there a check value not allowing backflow? Would there be some other blockage problem from perhaps sitting dry so long?
Your comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you

BFlinn181 · 09-08-2012, 09:49 PM

There are check valves at the water inlet and outlet fittings on the back usually. They can get minerals in them causing them to fail. You might try cleaning the tank out with white vinegar or gain access to the rear of the heater and remove or replace the check valves.

DAN L · 09-09-2012, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVwheels

Has anyone experienced this problem? After sitting empty for four months, went to use the water heater and could get no water out of it. It does fill (bypass value does work correctly) but will not deliver any water. It heats up Ok with either electric or gas. I tried cleaning out by removing the anode rod, disconnecting the hot water line on the rear and "back flushing" with air as well with pressured water. Could get no air nor water into the tank via those methods. Is there a check value not allowing backflow? Would there be some other blockage problem from perhaps sitting dry so long?
Your comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you

you don't state the year or model of your rv or if you have a suburban or atwood water heater. you probably have a suburban as the atwood does not use an anode rod.
you can add your rv info to your signature block.
it sounds like you have a check valve problem.
many times the check valves can be taken apart and the spring and seat removed, then reassembled.
the check valves purpose is primarily to keep pink anti freeze out of the water heater when winterizing.
camco brass check valves come in two flavors. the male pn is 882032130, the female is pn 23303. they cost about $9 each.

here is a reference that may help.

Service Documents

Gary RVRoamer · 09-09-2012, 09:15 AM

Assuming you have verified that the heater bypass valve(s) are in the correct position, it is probably the check valve(s) in the bypass. One or more has frozen up. If you have a single handle or two handle heater bypass set-up, it will have check valves and they are a common source of problems.

If you have a three handle/valve bypass system, there are usually no check valves in the tank outlet and we will have to look for some other cause.

RVwheels · 09-09-2012, 08:29 PM

Thank you for your replies. I have the suburban hearter. I'm just a little confused with the replies. There is an indication that the check values may be in the water heater or a part of the bypass value. Perhaps both? By bypass valve is a single handle operation. Placing it in the bypass position channels water into both hot and cold faucets. In the "normal" position the tank will fill but no hot outflow. Now that you made me think about it, I'll have to disconnet the hot outlet tomorrow and see if, while the tank is filling, water will come out. That should tell me if it is the tank or the bypass value.
Thanks again