Community Forums

Boomer Express · 07-01-2012, 07:13 PM

When the water softener is hooked up our water pressure is severely diminished. We have the Flo Pur 10,000. Is anyone else having this issue? Any solutions?

cb1000rider · 07-01-2012, 07:41 PM

I don't have this system, but I do a little work with water quality and system design (we're on a well).
These systems are ridculously simple. Water flows through a tank that has media in it.

I would try:
1) Backwash it. Run it backwards under pressure. This should clear anything lodged in it. Backwashing it will "push" the media out, so you'll have to limit the pressure once it is full

2) IF that doesn't work, it may be clogged with non-dissolved solids. This is why people typically run sediment filters in front of their softener. If you have a filter, check that first. If clogged, you can't clean it chemically without destroying the media. Bleach is really hard on softener media.

Last resort, you can empty it, clean the neck and buy replacement water softener media, it's not very expensive. If you refill it with media, make sure that the tube going down the tank is in place FIRST, then fill it.

TXiceman · 07-01-2012, 07:49 PM

The pressure loss through any filter device will effect the flow of water in the RV. As any filter plugs, the pressure drop increases and the flow decreases.

You may need a new catalyst bed in your water softener.

Ken

wa8yxm · 07-02-2012, 08:50 AM

I do not use a softener, but have used several different filters, ALL of them reduced water flow (Which appears as a reduction in pressure at the faucet).

I found that the best solution is to use a 2-stage regulation method.

Depending on the park.. I put a primary regulator (Watts 3/4") at the park hydrant/water bib, set to like 60-70 PSI, this protects the hose and filter,

Post filter is a Sur-Flow (I'd rather have another Watts, but Sur Flow is a Watts company) factoroy set to around 45-50 PSI. This is the standard RV_inlet regulator for RV's so equipped but configured as an IN-Line.

That one protects the RV.. This results in better flow.

If the park is pump fed by well controlled pumps. I skip the first regulator.

Another "Trick" that works is to fill the on-board fresh tank (One park whre I stay this is a must, make that 2 parks) and use the on-board pump. this gives better pressure.

of the two parks. ONE is on city water and I think the water system manager owns stock in a bleach company cause they over chlornate, letting it sit for a period in teh fresh watter supply tank fixes the bleach taste, Not even activated charchoal filters are enough to do it without the "resting" period.

The other park has spring loaded spiogts, If you do not hold them open, they shut off. It is a "Frost proof" thing.

Clay L · 07-02-2012, 10:58 AM

I have a Mark 8000 with a sediment filter between it and the incoming water. I am sure it and the filter restrict the flow some but not enough to be a problem. As the others said if you don't have a sediment filter you might want to get one.

The cost for resin replacement for mine is $35. Since you have a 10,000 grain unit yours will be a little more but if back flushing doesn't help you might want to replace it.

cb1000rider · 07-02-2012, 02:25 PM

If a sediment filter reduces your flow, use a bigger filter. We have a home on sediment filters - no problems with pressure. There are appropriate "whole house" filter at most hardware stores that will work just fine.

BTW, if you're trying to get clean drinking water, the only way to really accomplish this is via using a reverse osmosis system. Water dissolves solids that pass right through filters.

Reverse osmosis systems cost under $200 and can be installed under your sink.