What makes a nice ride, chassis, wheels,???

[ffpmdefi]

Ok now I'm confused as I stated in another message a couple weeks ago about how my 30' FR3 I felt did not handle very well. It has a F53 chassis 18000 GVWR, 19.5 tires and 190" wheel base. I was convinced because of the configuration is why it did not handle so well out on the highway with 18 wheelers passing. I've been researching the Tiffin Allegro 32CA Which after studying the chassis and wheel base length I was convinced that it must handle better. I drove a Tiffin Allegro today 34' on a 22000 lb chassis, 22.5 wheels and even a 242" wheel base today. "To my surprise as soon as I pulled out onto the street heading towards I 95 to join the big boys I knew my theory on the chassis and wheel size was going to be sooo painfully wrong. This coach started swaying back and forth on the top side to side from dips in the road, grooves in the road and of corse 18 wheelers. I told the sales man I'm getting off at the next exit and heading back. It was horrible. My FR3 handled much better than this did. Is it me or is everyone out there dealing with this type of handling. I have noticed that some of the Class A are 30" taller than a class C. I guess my question is . Are most of you people out there actually dealing with the poor handling of these motorhomes and just living with it. Now I'm starting to wonder if the Class C handles better because they are about 30" shorter. Some people are saying just start looking for a used DP. I haven't found a salesman yet that can tell me the truth about which one handles the best. Signed HIghly disappointed.

[RCCFleetwood]

Originally Posted by ffpmdefi

Ok now I'm confused as I stated in another message a couple weeks ago about how my 30' FR3 I felt did not handle very well. It has a F53 chassis 18000 GVWR, 19.5 tires and 190" wheel base. I was convinced because of the configuration is why it did not handle so well out on the highway with 18 wheelers passing. I've been researching the Tiffin Allegro 32CA Which after studying the chassis and wheel base length I was convinced that it must handle better. I drove a Tiffin Allegro today 34' on a 22000 lb chassis, 22.5 wheels and even a 242" wheel base today. "To my surprise as soon as I pulled out onto the street heading towards I 95 to join the big boys I knew my theory on the chassis and wheel size was going to be sooo painfully wrong. This coach started swaying back and forth on the top side to side from dips in the road, grooves in the road and of corse 18 wheelers. I told the sales man I'm getting off at the next exit and heading back. It was horrible. My FR3 handled much better than this did. Is it me or is everyone out there dealing with this type of handling. I have noticed that some of the Class A are 30" taller than a class C. I guess my question is . Are most of you people out there actually dealing with the poor handling of these motorhomes and just living with it. Now I'm starting to wonder if the Class C handles better because they are about 30" shorter. Some people are saying just start looking for a used DP. I haven't found a salesman yet that can tell me the truth about which one handles the best. Signed HIghly disappointed.

That's interesting... I bought our RV this past summer, and expected it to be difficult to drive and/or would handle as you described, but was happily surprised that it doesn't! It is quite stable, even at 65 (though I find the engine likes it best around 55-60), and only sways left to right a bit on corners and/or bumps or holes in the road. I'm really happy with it. It's a 34 foot '97 Fleetwood Pace Arrow with a tag axle and a Ford V8. I doubt it would tow a small car though, but we don't mind, for our first RV, until we retire maybe. My wife or one of our sons drives a car when we need one with us.

[c92vette]

There isn't an F53 Chassis right off the lot that handles well. They need help. Therefore I suggest you look up the thread Cheap Handling Fix on this forum.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/cheap...fix-72335.html

It is one of the largest threads but will enlighten you about the F53 chassis and handling. The CHF as it is known works and works well. Add to it proper loading and tire pressure and you can make the F53 chassis handle real well. I did mine after about being blown off the road and fighting it in wind during our first trip out. Since the fix I barely notice a semi coming past and wind is almost a non factor.

There are a lot of mods that can be done. All I did was the CHF, new poly bushings on the rear sway bar, increased my tire pressure 5 psi over recommended, and played with loading to find the beat configuration. I really enjoy driving the coach now.

The CHF IMHO is the way to go.

[Isaac-1]

You are not alone, I recently bought a 28 ft (29.5 actual) 2002 P32 wide track chassis motorhome with a 178 inch wheel base and have many of the same issues. The previous owner had spent almost $2,500 on suspension upgrades trac bar, safe-T Plus, etc. in the last couple of years, and before I even made it home from picking it up (1000 miles away) I had decided it needed more, in one month of ownership I have already added another $500 or so filling in some of the gaps the the previous owners upgrades, and have it close to where I would like it, but still plan to spend another $750 or so before spring.

[ffpmdefi]

Yes I did all the fixes to my first one. Blue Ox front sway bar, rear sway bar, rear track bar and a Safe T Plus steering shock. I figured I'm not going to assume I can fix a handling problem after the fact. I would like to drive one that handles some what ok before I install all the suspension upgrades. Personally I think they are all to tall and top heavy. Climbing up 5 steps just get inside is going to be unstable from the start. The Tiffin I drove the other day was 12' 11". Problem is I have not seen any other options.

[Waiter21]

My 2001 F53 handled like a shopping cart with bad wheels..

I did the CHF and replaced the worn out shocks. WOW - What a difference.

[530ktm]

Originally Posted by ffpmdefi

Ok now I'm confused as I stated in another message a couple weeks ago about how my 30' FR3 I felt did not handle very well. It has a F53 chassis 18000 GVWR, 19.5 tires and 190" wheel base. I was convinced because of the configuration is why it did not handle so well out on the highway with 18 wheelers passing. I've been researching the Tiffin Allegro 32CA Which after studying the chassis and wheel base length I was convinced that it must handle better. I drove a Tiffin Allegro today 34' on a 22000 lb chassis, 22.5 wheels and even a 242" wheel base today. "To my surprise as soon as I pulled out onto the street heading towards I 95 to join the big boys I knew my theory on the chassis and wheel size was going to be sooo painfully wrong. This coach started swaying back and forth on the top side to side from dips in the road, grooves in the road and of corse 18 wheelers. I told the sales man I'm getting off at the next exit and heading back. It was horrible. My FR3 handled much better than this did. Is it me or is everyone out there dealing with this type of handling. I have noticed that some of the Class A are 30" taller than a class C. I guess my question is . Are most of you people out there actually dealing with the poor handling of these motorhomes and just living with it. Now I'm starting to wonder if the Class C handles better because they are about 30" shorter. Some people are saying just start looking for a used DP. I haven't found a salesman yet that can tell me the truth about which one handles the best. Signed HIghly disappointed.

My 22K chassis with 22 inch wheels handles and drives nice with no mods done except an alignment. We just drove 100 miles in 50 to 65mph winds last weekend and it was no problem at all. I watched the guy behind my in his DP and he was all over the road so I am not sure that is your answer. Tire pressure, alignment and loads have a lot to do with the ride so those need to be correct before you make any rash decisions.

[MisterT]

I've delivered several F53 chassis Class A motorhomes from different manufacturers and find that they all drive fairly the same - the Ford chassis is not any different no matter which factory builds a home on top of it. Having said that, the length, the weight, the placement of furniture, etc., will ALL have an impact on the feel of the 'drive'. In good weather, no wind, and not a lot of large vehicle traffic, and on smooth interstate, they all drive great. Add any of the above, though, and you will see a quick decline in the enjoyment, if not plain white-knuckle driving.

we've owned a fifth-wheel, class a gas, and our current diesel pusher... you probably already know which one I want to stick with - and the drive is a pleasure.

[Betr2Trvl]

You've seen my post on your other thread, so here a few thoughts based on your recent drive.

In general, driving a ClassA takes getting used to. If you are not driving "heads up" and trying to "point" it down the road, you are going to be all over the place. If you are driving in your mirrors tying to keep it centered, you are going to be all over the road.

If you are favoring the center line vs. the right side of the roads and / or driving 15 mph slower than traffic, passing trucks are going to have a much more significant impact blowing / sucking you when they go by, it's just the way it is - the only time I feel a truck is when one sneaks up on me and I'm not favoring the right side of my lane, with my right tires on the white line.

All of the above are also going to be impacted by a tight grip on the steering wheel. White knuckles make it worse, not better. The more you see-saw the wheel, the more back and forth, weight transfer, and rocking / rolling you are going to create. You don't have to fight it.......

Brake in a straight line, get slowed to the speed you want for the sharpest part of a corner, then turn in. "Trail braking" a front engine RV to the corner apex is just bad driving, although most people have no idea that they do it. You are exaggerating dynamic weight transfer, both to the front by braking and side by turning, and hence more "roll over" to the outside front / front tire when you are turning and braking at the same time in a front engine RV.

Getting to the coaches you drove.

While they are Tiffins, both the 32CA and the 34TGA are a couple generations old now.

If you look at thier newer cousins, the 32SA is on a 24k chassis and the 34PA is now on a 26k although it started on a 24k for a while last year. The 36LA is on a 26k and you can get the 31SA on the 24k as I have. The 24k and 26k chassis is exactly the same with only the springs providing the different GVWR and have larger 255/80-22.5 tires vs. the 22k on 235s. With that, the 24k has the same 30k GCVW as the 26k, so you don't have to eat into your GVWR to tow 5k.

I would also say that most knowledgable buyers opt for the factory Sumo springs now if they special order (and we did as well), and even some dealers order thier inventory with them now as they have become so popular (and they might as well add another option to the selling price!).

As I noted before, I've played with my tire pressures a bit and added a Safe T Plus. That's it. In less than 2 years, we've been all over the country including the Rocky Mtns., covering over 16,000 miles and spending close to 10 months on the road by the end of this year, and have enjoyed greatly enjoyed our gasser, no 2nd guessing at all in our decision.

Good luck

[D Lindy]

I think that the biggest issue with units is that a person driving a coach for the first time usually has no idea what they're driving, basically a truck chassis with a HUGE side sail area. I think too many people expect these coach's to drive like their SUV's or sport cars. Just my 2 cents worth.
I spent 20+ years driving truck so maybe from that experience I'm so used to wind push rough road bounce, etc that I don't notice in our unit. Yes mines a DP 40' but a lot of owners complain about how bad these units drive too. Also I have no additional handling add on's either.

[96 Wideglide]

Originally Posted by 530ktm

My 22K chassis with 22 inch wheels handles and drives nice with no mods done except an alignment. We just drove 100 miles in 50 to 65mph winds last weekend and it was no problem at all. I watched the guy behind my in his DP and he was all over the road so I am not sure that is your answer. Tire pressure, alignment and loads have a lot to do with the ride so those need to be correct before you make any rash decisions.

[LVJ58]

Our 2000 38' coach on the F53 chassis handles very well, of course it has a tag axle that probably helps with directional stability. Had a pretty rough ride in the cockpit until I installed Koni FSD shocks and Firestone Ride-Rite air bags on all 4 corners. Running 20psi in front bags and 70psi in rear it now has a more comfortable ride.

[ffpmdefi]

What surprises me is I've driven 18 wheelers for 4 years in my younger days, fire trucks and aerial ladders for over 25 years, the largest U Haul trucks loaded up I 95 and I 75 which I must say the U Haul did not sway at all. Im not sure but it seems like it is the chassis that make the difference in the poor handling of a motor home. Ive never driven a class C before. A friend tells me he owned a 30' on a Ford 450 chassis, pulled a toad up to NY and said he never felt what Im telling him about mine. I did notice the class C is about 30" shorter in height which is a lot.

[ffpmdefi]

It seems if Tiffin is voluntarily going to a larger GVWR they realize there is a problem.