Wheel Masters Simulator RnR and Airbag Install

[BlauMax]

Coupla questions. I'm in the process of seeing if I can install the airbags I purchased for my rig. I have a W22 Workhorse with 22.5" wheels. I found out that the simulators are held on by a few dimpled fake nuts that fit a 1.5" socket. I also found out on the WheelMasters site that it takes a special coated wrench to remove them. Well, it can be done with a pair of channel locks and a scrap of leather or naugahyde.

So, I now have some new questions. It looks like I'll have to remove the wire coated air fillers from the center hub. Then under the fake nuts there are some real nuts. I assume I remove these with a large socket.. yet to be determined.. and then the simulators will come off. Next, after jacking and stabilizing the rig.. I can remove the wheels themselves.

This all sounds pretty straight forward.

Now, without a manual of some sort.. on the Workhorse W22 chassis, there are four nuts that hold the springs to the axel by a large cast plate. I need to remove three of the four nuts and place the new airbag bracket below the cast bracket. Once in place.. HOW MUCH TORQUE should the four nuts receive? Anyone have the proper specs?

Finally, if I'm successful in the installation.. I'm hoping the chassis is not hardened like my F-350 was.. and I put the wheels back on.. HOW MUCH TORQUE should the wheel nuts receive on this chassis?

Thanks... Whew, that was long winded

[DAN L]

Originally Posted by GreatWhite

Coupla questions. I'm in the process of seeing if I can install the airbags I purchased for my rig. I have a W22 Workhorse with 22.5" wheels. I found out that the simulators are held on by a few dimpled fake nuts that fit a 1.5" socket. I also found out on the WheelMasters site that it takes a special coated wrench to remove them. Well, it can be done with a pair of channel locks and a scrap of leather or naugahyde.

So, I now have some new questions. It looks like I'll have to remove the wire coated air fillers from the center hub. Then under the fake nuts there are some real nuts. I assume I remove these with a large socket.. yet to be determined.. and then the simulators will come off. Next, after jacking and stabilizing the rig.. I can remove the wheels themselves.

This all sounds pretty straight forward.

Now, without a manual of some sort.. on the Workhorse W22 chassis, there are four nuts that hold the springs to the axel by a large cast plate. I need to remove three of the four nuts and place the new airbag bracket below the cast bracket. Once in place.. HOW MUCH TORQUE should the four nuts receive? Anyone have the proper specs?

Finally, if I'm successful in the installation.. I'm hoping the chassis is not hardened like my F-350 was.. and I put the wheels back on.. HOW MUCH TORQUE should the wheel nuts receive on this chassis?

Thanks... Whew, that was long winded

you may be able to get a manual from the stickies on the workhorse forum first page.

i will try to answer your questions.
i have a w20 with 19.5'' wheels so my torque values may be different from yours. i have the special tool for removing the simulator nut covers and can still damage them.

there is a safety recall #30101c on my moho to re-torque the rear axle u bolt nuts to 140'#.

my wheel simulator cover retaining nuts are 1-3/16''. imho they do not require a lot of torque. 50'#-75'# should be adequate. i have never seen a torque spec for them. i tighten them with a 3/4 drive breaker bar.

my lug nuts are 33mm. a 1-5/16'' socket is a loose fit, too loose imho to get the proper torque of 475'#. that is a LOT of torque.
you will need a very long extension for the lug nuts. you can get hurt if your wrench slips so please use a tight fitting 33mm socket and have someone support the wrench while you are breaking the torque or tightening the lugnuts.
i use a jackstand to support my 600'# 42'' long harbor freight 3/4'' drive torque wrench. i use a harbor freight ''earthquake'' pneumatic wrench with 125+ psi air pressure to break the torqued lugnuts loose.

imho, it is good that you are planning on stabilizing your rig after jacking it up before working on it.
if your moho is like mine, you cannot use your parking brake to keep the wheels from turning when breaking the torqued lugnuts loose with a long wrench. the differential action precludes this.
imho it is necessary to either break the torqued lugnuts before jacking the moho or have someone inside apply the service brakes. i used chocks jammed under the rear wheels once. the chocks should have been under the front wheels.
good luck and work safe.

[BlauMax]

Thanks Dan... Wow, when I first saw some of the old posts from 4-5 yrs ago about this torque I thought something is wrong with this number. That IS one hecka lot of torque.

I'm beginning to wonder if it is something I want to tackle on my own. I think my largest t-wrench is something like 250#. I think my brother in law has a 6 point socked that will fit.. and if 6 point, a 1 5/16" should work fine.. I have 1 1/4" and 1 3/8.. but the 1 1/4 is too small and the 1 3/8 is too large.. plus that one is something like an 18 point.. more than the standard 12 point. Any pressure and it slips.. Don't want to round those nuts.

Darn.. sitting in my garage waiting to be installed..

[edgray]

Bill: Yes, the lugs are susposed to be 475 pounds-feet of torque, and unless you've got access to a torque mutiplier, you're gonna need a tire mechanic with a 1" drive impact wrench and a 33mm socket.

Removing and re-torqueing the U-bolt nuts to the recommendation provided by Dan L above seems challenging enough, but is doable. Are you sure you NEED to remove the wheels in order to install the air bag bracket???
Ed

[BlauMax]

Yes, unfortunately the wheels need to be removed.. Need to drill four holes in frame on each side for the brackets. I know some airbag instals have brackets that fit pre-drilled holes in the chassis.. but not for the W22

[DAN L]

Originally Posted by GreatWhite

Thanks Dan... Wow, when I first saw some of the old posts from 4-5 yrs ago about this torque I thought something is wrong with this number. That IS one hecka lot of torque.

I'm beginning to wonder if it is something I want to tackle on my own. I think my largest t-wrench is something like 250#. I think my brother in law has a 6 point socked that will fit.. and if 6 point, a 1 5/16" should work fine.. I have 1 1/4" and 1 3/8.. but the 1 1/4 is too small and the 1 3/8 is too large.. plus that one is something like an 18 point.. more than the standard 12 point. Any pressure and it slips.. Don't want to round those nuts.

Darn.. sitting in my garage waiting to be installed..

greatwhite,
you are welcome...
when i had my brake caliper recall accomplished by brazels in centralia, wa they said that their air wrench was calibrated for 475'#. i requested that they use a torque wrench. they finally used my torque wrench and got some movement on each lug nut. i think that the air wrench torque is a common practice in most shops. this is not good enough for me.
another thing to remember... anytime the wheel is off, the lugnuts should be retorqued to 475'# in about 1000 miles.
imho a 1-5/16 6 point or 12 point socket will work if you stabilize the extension well. it is better to use a tight fitting 33 mm socket available at most truck stops and parts stores. if you plan on using an air tool, the 33 mm 6 point socket is a necessity.

[BlauMax]

I asked this in my original thread.. but, I better re-ask it here. I'm wondering if a 3/4" drive impact socket and a long breaker bar is stout enough to do the job. I'm really only interested in getting the nuts off.. If I can do this, I can do the install and replace the wheels and get them torqued enough to get to a tire shop for the final tightening.

Any mechanics out there that know if 3/4" drive is stout enough??

[DAN L]

Originally Posted by GreatWhite

I asked this in my original thread.. but, I better re-ask it here. I'm wondering if a 3/4" drive impact socket and a long breaker bar is stout enough to do the job. I'm really only interested in getting the nuts off.. If I can do this, I can do the install and replace the wheels and get them torqued enough to get to a tire shop for the final tightening.

Any mechanics out there that know if 3/4" drive is stout enough??

my 42'' long torque wrench is 3/4'' drive. 3/4'' drive is stout enough. you will need a long breaker bar maybe with a cheater bar on the end.
good luck finding a tire shop with a 475'# torque wrench.
as ed gray suggested, maybe you can purchase a torque multiplier so you can use a smaller torque wrench.

[mfire1339]

Greatwhite, I used a 3/4 breaker bar and the jack handle from my large floor jack. I had to jump on the 54" bar to break them loose!


Mike