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Old 10-06-2021, 03:05 PM   #1
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When removing air lines from the VDU doesn't work

I need to remove the VDU, as I want to check the solder joints which are a known problem on my model year chassis. I am familiar with the procedure, as stated some years ago, by forum member FireUp. He posted a simple how-to:

"Here's how you remove the hose. First, bleed every pound of pressure out of your air system. Do this by pumping the brakes, pulling on the lanyard s in the front right fender well etc. When you are sure all air is expelled from the system, then, grab the air hose, about an inch or so away from that collar and push the hose towards the VDU with a tad bit of force. Then, while holding that pressure on that hose, using your other hand, push the collar, ALSO towards the VDC. What that does is, by pushing the hose towards the VDC, you're in effect releasing the bite on it, from the collar. And, by pushing the collar forward too, you're relieving it of it's bite. Now, while holding the collar in towards the VDC, you can now simply PULL the hose out of the fitting, done."

Trouble is, I cannot get them to release. All the air is bled from the air tank, and brake pedal pumped many times, until there was no more air to be releases, then pumped many more times, and the pressure release lanyard pulled several more times. I'm pretty sure there is no more sir in the system.

I push the red or green air line, with a lot of force, the try pushing the collar toward the fitting. It seems to be already all the way against the fitting, as there is no visible room for it to move. But I try pushing it anyways, then while pushing both the air line and the ring, I try pulling the line out.

It does not budge.. and this is the same with both lines.
So what to do now? I'm thinking of un-bolting the module, and try taking the back off with the air lines still attached. I don't want to do this, but I don't know of any other option. Do you?
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Old 10-06-2021, 05:47 PM   #2
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The casing has to by pried open anyways as it's sealed, which will need to be resealed. Maybe once it's popped open those lines will come out. The solder points are on the back part of the box as well.
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Old 10-06-2021, 05:53 PM   #3
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Sometimes it helps to put an open end wrench on the collar and give sharp rap on the wrench with a hammer
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Old 10-06-2021, 07:02 PM   #4
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bizzerbiz,
Thanks, that idea might help. I will keep it in mind.

Reka,
I did push using a pair of pliers held loosely straddling the air line, and pushed with quite a bit of force, but I will try your idea tomorrow. But close inspection of the collars does not reveal and gap that would be taken up when pushing on the collar, so if it doesn't move, I don't know how it will release.

Ive actually thought about cutting the plastic lines right at the collar, then using a pair of small needle nose pliers to compress the remaining stub of plastic tubing, to remove it. Kind of a gamble doing that, but might just work.

I wonder of those "L" fittings that the plastic line connects to, are available as replacements.
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Old 10-06-2021, 07:22 PM   #5
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Sounds like a “Shark bite” fitting. If the collars are already bottomed out you could try pulling on the hose to see if you can gain enough separation to press the collars in.
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Old 10-06-2021, 11:14 PM   #6
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Sounds like a “Shark bite” fitting. If the collars are already bottomed out you could try pulling on the hose to see if you can gain enough separation to press the collars in.
I hope not. Sharkbite is not an approved DOT fitting.
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Old 10-07-2021, 12:05 AM   #7
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Have you tried pulling on the air line first to see if the collar moves away from the fitting?
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Old 10-07-2021, 07:55 AM   #8
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If its that hard to remove, it probably wont seal well again if you disassemble...

Cut both airlines, go on amazon and buy DOT rated 1/4 splices for $10 each (metal)...

Youre done...
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Old 10-07-2021, 09:03 AM   #9
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DOT approved air line fittings

Thanks for all the suggestions. Before even attempting to disconnect the air lines, I cleaned the area; used a toothbrush to clean around the fittings, and a dry paint brush on the module. I understand how these fittings work, but the release ring is tight to the back of both fittings, and no amount of pushing or pulling back on the ring, has moved it.

I think I'll replace the fittings with either https://www.mcmaster.com/push-to-con...tube-fittings/ or if I can find one with the thread-lock already in place, I may prefer that.
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Old 10-07-2021, 11:04 AM   #10
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quick update

I had sprayed the fittings, release rings and sprayed up into where the lines attach, using a solution of Spray9, and let it soak. Went back out and wiped it all down with a clean rag, then pushed and tugged on the lines and rings, and finally they released.

Now I have the mounting bolts and nuts soaking with DeepCreep penetrating fluid. I'll try removing the module in an hour or so.
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Old 10-07-2021, 11:13 AM   #11
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Well CaptBill,
The instructions I gave you are correct in releasing those fittings. You just happen to be up against some stubborn ones. It happens. The *Barb* type securing of those fittings are normally fairly easy to release. In your situation, there might be a couple things causing your problem. It may be possible but, not probable, that the ends of those plastic hoses are sort of *fused*, either to the collars or, to the interior plastic holes they are embedded into.

I know there's limited room to maneuver in that area but, have you tried twisting each of those hoses to see if there's actually any ability to rotate each hose end? That would eliminate my suggestion of any type of fusing. If you twisted the hose AND pushed on the collar, maybe you might, just might, jar something loose, just a guess.

If all else fails, I'm presupposing you have enough slack in each hose to cut them, very close to the collars, correct? If so, you can then remove the VDC and perform the inspection and if necessary, re-solder any components that are questionable. In the mean time, you can now, at the work bench, manipulate the cut-off ends to maybe tweak them out of the collar without damaging anything. If you do damage a collar, well, as you've stated, you can get replacement push-to-connect components at multiple places,

Before I'd do a McMaster Carr thing, I might make a call to Napa. Most Napas deal in big truck parts so, it's quite possible they will have those type of fittings, just a guess but, somewhat educated. Good luck, sorry for your inconvenience on the stubborn fittings. I don't mess with mine all that often but, on occasion, I too will find one that is a bit hesitant to let go. But, I'm bigger that that fitting and normally win the *tug-of-war*!
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Old 10-12-2021, 02:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I hope not. Sharkbite is not an approved DOT fitting.


Shark bite was in quotes. I didn’t mean Sharkbite fittings.
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Old 10-12-2021, 02:54 PM   #13
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I just did mine and I sprayed it with blast and worked the line in and out and they finally came loose. I pressed the collar in with a small open end wrench. The cold solder trick didn't work the second time around, new unit time ordered it from So Carolina.
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Old 10-12-2021, 04:36 PM   #14
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As posted a few days ago, I did get the lines released (used Spray9). I re-soldered the 8 pins (4 each sensor) even though they looked ok. Everything back together and re-installed. I've started the engine several times, and the gauges worked properly, and no alarms, but I did not have the time to take it for a test drive. So I really don't know if the problem has been addressed.
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