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Old 10-17-2017, 11:34 AM   #15
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Agree with Gary. I have only used the blow out method for the last 15 years with anti-freeze in the P traps.
Zeb and Teena
2005 Mandalay, 2013 Ford Edge
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Old 10-17-2017, 01:32 PM   #16
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There are many posts on this subject. I drain the water, put 60 watt trouble lights where ever there is water and pink stuff in the P traps/toilets.
2014 American Eagle 45T
DD 13, 500 HP
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Old 10-17-2017, 03:53 PM   #17
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Hi together!

If you are thinking about blowing out all the water, you need to think about, where the air is coming from! If you only do have your own compressor attached to your rv's engine I wouldn't recommend this!!!! Ask about this each technician.

I am with all, which one are only using antifreeze!

What I am doing: open all valves, while the rv diagonally is inclined. A lot, but really not all, of the water is running out by itself. Don't forget to drain the waterheater. Close all valves.Remove all the ice from the icemaker. Then put the antifreeze in the freshwater-tank and switch on the pump. Open in a row (even one) all the outlets until only antifreeze is running. Don't forget to start the eventually built in washer (on an cold and an warm programm, because there are two electric valves -one for cold and one for warm water- inside), eventually the dishwasher and the icemaker. For all of this I need to spend about 50 bucks, but it works very easy and safes all.

Safe travels!

Beatrix and Dietmar
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:32 AM   #18
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Most rv's are set up so one only drains the fresh tank but does not put anti freeze in it. There is a separate port to put the antifreeze in between the tank and pump. Saves a lot of antifreeze and makes spring cleaning a lot simpler.

A little water left in the fresh tank does not seem to be a problem.

If you have bypass valves on the HW heater work all the valves with antifreeze flowing to get it into the cores on the normally closed valves. Water will freeze and crack the valve body.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:43 AM   #19
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Air or pink, the one done completely and correctly. No water to freeze and expand or antifreeze that freezes at way low temps.

2004 Clss C 31' Winnebgo
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Old 10-19-2017, 10:24 AM   #20
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We winterize with the pink antifreeze. It takes roughly 30 minutes to winterize the coach. I man the wet bay - draining the fresh water tank, opening the low point drain valves, and finally - keeping the bucket filled with antifreeze while it's being drawn up into the coach's plumbing system. My DW moves from water source to water source inside the coach - opening the faucet, flushing, etc. until the pink antifreeze is obviously present.

Between what gets run thru the lines to the faucets, toilets, ice maker and washing machine, what gets poured into the P Traps, etc. - we end up using roughly 8 gallons of antifreeze. I usually purchase 3 cases (4 - 1 gallon bottles per case). 8 gallons get used during the winterization process - the other 4 gallons get set in the mid-ship bath and used to flush during our regular visits to the coach throughout the winter. I know I could get away with less antifreeze - but prefer to use it liberally. Being that we often use the coach for periods throughout the winter ... it's common that we unwinterize/rewinterize two or three times over the course of the winter. We've yet to have any freeze damage.

On a side note - I paid our dealership the first time we had the coach winterized - with the understanding that I could watch and ask questions about the process. It was expensive - BUT, I rationalized a good chunk of the cost as "tuition".
2012 HR Endeavor 43' DFT, 2012 Jeep Liberty
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