Winterizing coach what do you think?

[Dave1956]

My mechanic says he puts the anti freeze directly into water tank and then pumps through all systems. Sounds easy enough to me. My water pump is a bear to access so I like this idea. Any comments or thoughts?

[wyorancher]

Your RV, your choice. I have been just blowing out my water lines in NW WY for 4 years now and have had no problems. I winterize and de-winterize on the road as necessary. Either method works if done correctly. I just don't like that yukky stuff in my water lines.

[Bumps]

Does your coach have a winterizing connection? We flip the lever, and suck the red stuff into the plumbing (be sure you have bypassed the hot water heater!) from the winterizing hose. We let the pump push the red stuff through all of the lines (don't forget the washing machine and dishwasher lines!). Takes about 10 minutes with 2 people. Then pour some red stuff down each drain, too. We leave the valve for the fresh water tank open (empty). \ken

[golfpgb]

This will be our first time winterizing our Class A. I think I will let the pump suck the pink antifreeze throughout the coach. That is what I do on my boat.


If you put it in the tank you may end up using more than needed just to get enough in the tank for the pump pickup tube.

This year I have two systems I must winterize.

[R2Home]

The issue with putting antifreeze directly in the water tank, is that it takes a lot more care to get the water tank cleaned out. I did that once, a long time a go and never again. We use the pump to pump antifreeze through out the system and it is easy to clean out in the spring time.
But as has already been said 'to each his own'.

[Dave1956]

I will search my pump area for a connection or I could add one. I had thought about using the hand pump they sell and going in at the city fresh water connection. I have a small class C and the pump and tank are below the dinette which is screwed together. No valves on the outside.

Thanks

[dvmweb]

Get one of these.

http://www.adventurerv.net/pump-conv...r-pi-1574.html

Easy. I put rv antifreeze in a four gallon container and put the uptake hose in and turn on the pump. Works great, takes about 1/2 hour because we have a washing machine and an ice maker.


2013 FleetWood Expedition 38B

[eddieelk]

Dave 1956, I don't know where you live, but take the closest ODD numbered Interstate, keep going till you get to CA, TX, or FL zipcodes. and wait out the winter. It's, by far, the best plan. Eddie Elk.

[ChasA]

I'm doing as Eddie elk said.

[nothermark]

Originally Posted by Dave1956

My mechanic says he puts the anti freeze directly into water tank and then pumps through all systems. Sounds easy enough to me. My water pump is a bear to access so I like this idea. Any comments or thoughts?

If my mechanic told me that it would be the last time I did business with him.

Drain the big tank and you are done with it. Depending on your unit there is an easy way to put antifreeze in without dumping it in the big tank. On our old one it was a setting on the 3 valves and a connection. On the new one the pump is under the end of the bed and has a valve to shut off the big tank and a place to connect a hose to a capped line at the pump input. Both units used 1/2 in pipe threaded fittings.

FWIW You should know where your water tank and pump are located. If they are under screwed down covers leave the screws out if practical. You also need to know where your HW bypass valves are. Ditto covers.

[CigarBoy]

man o' man Eddie Elk.. i can't wait until i can do that. still working the day job for a couple more years, but counting away until i can point south and drive for the winter. But here in NH.... brrr.. gotta winterize soon.
-mike

[middleman210]

Originally Posted by eddieelk

Dave 1956, I don't know where you live, but take the closest ODD numbered Interstate, keep going till you get to CA, TX, or FL zipcodes. and wait out the winter. It's, by far, the best plan. Eddie Elk.

Wishing I could do just that myself

[Skip426]

Originally Posted by Dave1956

I will search my pump area for a connection or I could add one. I had thought about using the hand pump they sell and going in at the city fresh water connection. I have a small class C and the pump and tank are below the dinette which is screwed together. No valves on the outside.

Thanks

Problem with the hand pump at the city connection; is you may leave enough water in the 12v pump or it's debris screen to freeze up and crack
the housing. The hand pump @ the city connection, puts the A/F into the system downstream from the pump , for the best protection; for the pump; the A/F needs to be run through the 12v pump.
JMHO: Take the time to investigate, the 12v pump, pick up side for installation of a temporary A/F hose. Your safest way to winterize.

[wanderso]

I've done the RV antifreeze route and have had the enjoyment of tasting that stuff for the first 3 trips of the season. Now I blow out the lines instead at 40 PSI for 30 minutes or so and pour a bit of the antifreeze in the p traps. I like this adapter for the city water connection that allows the compressor to run without having to stand there and hold the air hose. http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36143-Br...+blow+out+plug As for the pump, if you are concerned about the pump being damaged if you were unable to remove all the water, you can consider a pump converter winterizing kit like this Camco one and then only enough antifreeze to enter the pump and the adjacent line. That limits the amount of yucky taste you have to put up with in the spring and protects the pump. On my current rig, I don't use one because the drain line method on my Chinook actually involves turning a couple of ball valves and the pump pulls water from the tank and the adjacent line through the drain valve and will do so until it runs dry. (Camco pump winterizing kit here) Amazon.com: Camco 36543 Pump Converter Winterizing Kit: Automotive

Oh - and concerned about running your pump dry? At least in my case, Shurflo says it is safe to allow it to run dry. http://www.shurflo.com/rv-products/r...s/default.html