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Old 07-23-2018, 02:06 PM   #15
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Why you bringing up the 'W' word in mid July ?
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Old 07-23-2018, 02:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide View Post
Why you bringing up the 'W' word in mid July ?
I've been traveling since April and the wife asked me to come home early...guess she misses me for some reason. Usually I travel till mid September.
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Old 07-23-2018, 03:06 PM   #17
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I've been traveling since April and the wife asked me to come home early...guess she misses me for some reason. Usually I travel till mid September.
The other option would be to drive the RV down to a place that doesn't have winter and store it there.
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Old 07-23-2018, 03:15 PM   #18
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The other option would be to drive the RV down to a place that doesn't have winter and store it there.
It's going to be an indoor storage place in Salt Lake City indoor storage is hard to find. But I'm positioning the coach for ease of access when I come back to be able to do the Grand Canyon all the way up to Yellowstone so I could say it's strategically placed
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:11 PM   #19
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Keep in mind the ice maker water solenoid only receives power when frig is on and the ice maker timer calls for voltage to open the solenoid-temperature-dependent.
I've been removing the solenoid bowl and disconnecting the supply line for 5 years now, no damage yet.. If the solenoid freezes there is a plastic thing in the bowl that bulges out a bit to signal it has failed. I'll try to find my link to that and reply again.
HAH! found it: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/icemaker.pdf
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:23 AM   #20
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Man that's a lot of work just to winterize/dewinterize the ice maker.


I use an old lamp cord and just momentarily hot wire the solenoid from the fridge outlet while using an air compressor or adding anti-freeze. I also place a bunch of towels at the ice maker to catch any anti-freeze/water. Only takes a few seconds of energizing the solenoid to accomplish the task.
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:31 AM   #21
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Some good ideas here about powering the solenoid manually or by removing the lines and manually draining. These certainly work on RV reefers which have great access through the outside ventilation panel. However, the problem with residential reefers is that generally there is no easy access to the rear of the unit where the valve is located, hence compressed air and multiple icemaker cycles are far easier than trying to access the feeds and water valve.
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:37 AM   #22
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If it's a whirlpool type ice maker you would remove the front cover , it pops off, run a jumper between the L and V terminal, that opens the solenoid so that compressed air will empty the line just let it run 5-10 min for caution
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:36 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sbrownstein View Post
Some good ideas here about powering the solenoid manually or by removing the lines and manually draining. These certainly work on RV reefers which have great access through the outside ventilation panel. However, the problem with residential reefers is that generally there is no easy access to the rear of the unit where the valve is located, hence compressed air and multiple icemaker cycles are far easier than trying to access the feeds and water valve.
If I were installing a residential fridge in my RV, I'd hook up jumper wires to the icemaker solenoid and run them down to the outside vent door. Knowing I'd need to purge the water line, this would allow opening the valve and blowing it out without having to remove the lines or refrigerator. Planning ahead sometimes works.
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