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Old 05-12-2019, 08:44 PM   #57
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"Septic"??

No better way to end my reading of an article as when the author uses the wrong nomenclature to describe the subject at hand. Describing the RV waste system as a "Septic" system (more than once) is the same as someone penning an article on the number or cartridges a gun can hold and calling the magazine a clip. In both cases, you loose any credibility you thought you may be attempting to garner.

But in case you are using your RV waste tanks as septic tanks then you deserve all the misery you get.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:12 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grindstone01 View Post
We have been leaving both of our tank valves open whenever sewer hookup is available. Just think of how many tank dumps I have not dealt with in 6+ years of full timing. Other methods do work with a little planning, like no paper flushed and 2 soap packets w/water on travel days to slosh around!

You have been extremely lucky. I did the 'Leave the tank valves open' routine one summer - it did not take long and I had a heck of a pile of solidified [Mod Edit] to clean out.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:21 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkbeasley View Post
You may go years without a problem. Have you ever used a vault toilet? Some COE campgrounds have vault toilets. It they are not properly drained and cleaned out you can see a pyramid of waste building up from the bottom of the collection area to a point just below your. Well you get the point. Dumping a full tank minimizes the chance of this happening.
Toilet paper will begin to break down immediately. I have tested both rv paper and my home paper. Both begin to separate after only two days. Try it yourself using a sheet of each in a jar. Set it in the kitchen window and see what happens.
I have an additional shut off valve I installed at the end of the trailer pipe. Once I dump my black tank. I close this end valve, leave the blank tank valve open and open my gray tank. The result is my gray water backs up into my black tank. Once equalized I close my gray tank and open the end valve. This flushes my black tank with my black water. Once the black tank is quit running I close the black valve and ope the remaining gray water.
Now I have your attention. Let me mention the Most important piece of equipment you can have is a Surge Guard. Especially if you have a 50 amp service. You won't believe how many cg's have low voltage when the cg is busy.
I also do the procedure you suggest on dumping the black tank, then - while the black tank valve is still open - opening the grey tank valve. I don't have an additional shutoff valve - so some of my grey water goes 'down the drain' - but enough of it backflows into the black tank that I get a second rush of black tank brownish sludge going down the drain. Very important (in my mind) to close the grey tank valve before the black tank water might start going back into the grey tank - also important to have the clear elbow on the drain pipe to see the 'goodies' flowing down the drain.

And I agree with you on the need to have a surge guard -and not just for 50 amp units. My 30 amp EMS has cut off power more than once per season when incoming voltage drops to 103 volts.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:22 PM   #60
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If you leave the black valve open and use lots of water, you might be able to dodge a bullet.

Or not.

The fun of finding out is something I'll try to avoid!
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:42 PM   #61
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I once seen a guy dump his tanks. After he dumped he unhooked the stinky slinky from the Rv and also unhooked from the sewer connection. Then he laid his slinky on the lawn and got the hose out and stuck in the end that was hooked to the Rv and rinsed it all out on the lawn. He then put the hose away in his bumper storage and drove away. This guy was about 50-60 years old and had no common sense at all.
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Old 05-12-2019, 11:08 PM   #62
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Problems are coming

Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
We have been 6 months contionues use with both gray and black tank valves open.

Threaded connection to the CG fitting.

When do the bad things start happening ?

Wouldn't a partial full black tank smell thru the roof vent line ?
You may never have a problem, but a future owner of your RV will. We bought a 10-year old MH from the original owner who always left his black tank open. That being our first RV, we did the same for a few months, not knowing any different. Then the problems started. Sewer smell inside and reduced capacity of the tank. Upon investigation and talking with some people, we quickly learned that we had a mound of solids in the tank. Fixing the problem was a nightmare. We tried adding the bacteria, using ice and driving around, and snaking the tank, all to no avail. Ultimately those things probably did help but what finally broke the log jam was flushing with water. Lots and lots of water. This whole process took a few months but we finally got the tank cleaned and its capacity restored. So we learned the hard way to only use the proper toilet paper and to keep the tank closed until it’s almost full before emptying.
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:42 AM   #63
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RV sewer systems.

Over the few short years we've been RVing we have received different directions from many people on how to utilize our black and grey water drain systems. The first problem we had was the dealer had to completely remove and re-install our black water system as Forest River installed it incorrectly so it would not drain properly (just one of many, many problems with an expensive 5th wheel RV). Once that was done it got better but still not draining completely. We may have now received some good information from a friend and a dealer regarding how to properly handle this black water system...we'll see and report back. With all of that said, I join a long line of people who would like to find whoever designed the black water system on RVs and hang him upside down until he cried Uncle.
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:56 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cimplexsound View Post
Attachment 243610

There's nothing worse then stepping outside of your RV to the smell of someone else's rotting poop, all because of some bozo who doesn't know how to use an RV sewer system properly. Unfortunately I've had such an unpleasant experience on more than one occasion. Not used properly your septic system can get you kicked out of an RV park faster than any other feature on your RV because no one wants a stinky slinky hanging around including the RV park management. The popular nickname often used to describe the common RV sewer hose (stinky slinky). So I have published this article to help keep your stinky slinky from getting you in trouble and to keep your RV sewer system running right.

*Taking a close look at the RV septic system there are 2 tanks, black water for toilet and gray water for sinks, showers, etc.
*At the sewer hose connection the large knob is for your black water and the small knob is grey water. A common mistake people make is leaving their sewer valves open which is a defiant no no 😱. Always keep the sewer knobs closed except when dumping. This prevents the pyramid effect in your toilet which can eventually lead to serious plumbing problems. It also keeps your foul smell inside the holding talks where it belongs, not where your neighbors have to smell it. Leaving the sewer knobs open can quickly destroy your sewer hose and make it completely unusable.

*The only intended use of an RV sewer hose is to transport the sewerage from RV to the sewer connection in the ground and when dumping only.
*Only dump at a proper dumping station or through the sewer connection in your RV park when and only when your tanks reach 3/4 full. This gives any solid matter in your holding tanks time to break down and decompose. It also keeps your sensors working properly. A common problem with RV holding tank sensors. If toilet paper sticks on the sensor you might have to purchase a water wand and give your tanks a power wash at the sewer hose connection, or run your toilet for 1/2 hour with the black sewer knob open to give your black tank a complete cleansing flush.
*When dumping remember dump black water first and allow your tank to completely drain. Close the black water and then dump gray water to allow the soap suds from your leftover dish soap to clean the system. Once both knobs are closed use a toilet chemical like Camco TST orange treatment and put about a gallon of water in each tank. A couple of cap fulls of tst will work quite nicely after each dump. No more complaints about a poopy smell. If your a person with physical disabilities that has a hard time getting into such low spaces, consider having an RV professional install electronic dump valves on your system so you can operate your septic system from inside of your RV. Check your sewer hose at least twice a month for leaks. There made out of cheap plastic and are notorious for cracking and developing leaks that will have the whole RV park keeping your pungent order at the center of their attention. Keeping all the components of your septic system in good condition is key to enjoying trouble free convenience. So now that you know the proper industry standard etiquette for using your RVs septic system properly there is no excuse for your neighbors to ever smell your sewage again. Properly delivered from RV to the hole in the ground, that's how it will work when used properly. Hope this helps a lot of people learn the proper way of using the RV septic system.
I have a leak in my grey water tank - Class C motorhome. Any advice on removal and replacement? The hard part seems to be getting at the inputs to the tank
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:37 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRUSA14 View Post
I suggest you Google “Septic System Definiftion”. RVs do not have a septic system. A septic system is a waste treatment system, RVs have waste holding tanks. There is a big difference between the two.
Really? I think everyone knows what the op is talking about. A little knit picking don't you think?
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:40 AM   #66
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Newbie thanks you!

As a 1st time seasonal camper this summer I appreciate this bit of information. I have a 17ft Whitewater Retro and can't see my tanks to know when their full. If I can, I haven't found a hatch that allows me to view them. I have only used the rig 3 times since purchasing it last year and just dumped after each excursion.


How do I guesstimate when Ill need to dump?




Quote:
Originally Posted by cimplexsound View Post
Attachment 243610

There's nothing worse then stepping outside of your RV to the smell of someone else's rotting poop, all because of some bozo who doesn't know how to use an RV sewer system properly. Unfortunately I've had such an unpleasant experience on more than one occasion. Not used properly your septic system can get you kicked out of an RV park faster than any other feature on your RV because no one wants a stinky slinky hanging around including the RV park management. The popular nickname often used to describe the common RV sewer hose (stinky slinky). So I have published this article to help keep your stinky slinky from getting you in trouble and to keep your RV sewer system running right.

*Taking a close look at the RV septic system there are 2 tanks, black water for toilet and gray water for sinks, showers, etc.
*At the sewer hose connection the large knob is for your black water and the small knob is grey water. A common mistake people make is leaving their sewer valves open which is a defiant no no ��. Always keep the sewer knobs closed except when dumping. This prevents the pyramid effect in your toilet which can eventually lead to serious plumbing problems. It also keeps your foul smell inside the holding talks where it belongs, not where your neighbors have to smell it. Leaving the sewer knobs open can quickly destroy your sewer hose and make it completely unusable.

*The only intended use of an RV sewer hose is to transport the sewerage from RV to the sewer connection in the ground and when dumping only.
*Only dump at a proper dumping station or through the sewer connection in your RV park when and only when your tanks reach 3/4 full. This gives any solid matter in your holding tanks time to break down and decompose. It also keeps your sensors working properly. A common problem with RV holding tank sensors. If toilet paper sticks on the sensor you might have to purchase a water wand and give your tanks a power wash at the sewer hose connection, or run your toilet for 1/2 hour with the black sewer knob open to give your black tank a complete cleansing flush.
*When dumping remember dump black water first and allow your tank to completely drain. Close the black water and then dump gray water to allow the soap suds from your leftover dish soap to clean the system. Once both knobs are closed use a toilet chemical like Camco TST orange treatment and put about a gallon of water in each tank. A couple of cap fulls of tst will work quite nicely after each dump. No more complaints about a poopy smell. If your a person with physical disabilities that has a hard time getting into such low spaces, consider having an RV professional install electronic dump valves on your system so you can operate your septic system from inside of your RV. Check your sewer hose at least twice a month for leaks. There made out of cheap plastic and are notorious for cracking and developing leaks that will have the whole RV park keeping your pungent order at the center of their attention. Keeping all the components of your septic system in good condition is key to enjoying trouble free convenience. So now that you know the proper industry standard etiquette for using your RVs septic system properly there is no excuse for your neighbors to ever smell your sewage again. Properly delivered from RV to the hole in the ground, that's how it will work when used properly. Hope this helps a lot of people learn the proper way of using the RV septic system.
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:58 AM   #67
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Black Tank

Just a reminder
You should never leave the black tank open!
When you do you are building in your tank a mountain of solids that get harder and harder the longer that it sits in there.
Dump it at 3/4 to full tank.
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:45 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2fishnh View Post
As a 1st time seasonal camper this summer I appreciate this bit of information. I have a 17ft Whitewater Retro and can't see my tanks to know when their full. If I can, I haven't found a hatch that allows me to view them. I have only used the rig 3 times since purchasing it last year and just dumped after each excursion.


How do I guesstimate when Ill need to dump?
Some toilets drain straight down into the black tank. If yours does, then simply looking down the toilet will tell you when it's time to dump because the level will be high enough to be obvious.

In my trailer, when the tub won't drain or a sink makes gray water appear in my tub, it's time to dump the gray tank.
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:24 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by careh View Post
You have been extremely lucky. I did the 'Leave the tank valves open' routine one summer - it did not take long and I had a heck of a pile of solidified [Mod Edit] to clean out.

Really! You call it lucky, do you realize how many flushes we have done in 6+ years of full time living in our RV? I call it understanding the system and making it work for my life style. Question, in your "Leave the tank valve open experience" did you flush down toilet paper and soap the tank on travel days? I realize some people aren't up to that method, but the trade off was minimal for us.
You didn't see me standing by the dump valve drinking a cup of coffee in the last 6 years.
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:31 AM   #70
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Nice helpful Post!

Don't worry about the negative comments, they mean well, but, they missed the important parts of the post. No harm No foul. Keep posting.
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