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Old 05-20-2021, 03:54 PM   #1
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12V charge line using Brake controller line

Hello

I am looking from some advice on getting a 12V charge line from my 31 ft Class A to my towed Vehicle (Jeep Wrangler). I would like to use the RVi charger since I have already ordered the brake controller. My motorhome has a 7 pin connector at the rear. However, it does not have a 12V charge line connected to the plug. There is a brake controller wire connected to the 7 pin connector which I traced the other end to an unused wires under the dash of the motorhome. In this group of wires, there was a 12V hot wire to power the brake controller (I do not have a brake controller). I connected the 12v wire to the brake controller wire that goes to the plug at the rear of my coach. Under the dash, I measure 12V. However, I barely get any voltage readings (0.03 volts) at the 7 pin connector.

1) Any ideas on how to correct this?

2) Should I give up and run a dedicated 10 or 12 AWG wire to the 7 pin connector from the battery using auto or manual reset CB? Do I also need to run a negative wire all the way back to the 7 pin outlet as well?


Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-20-2021, 08:46 PM   #2
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I've always had to rewire the 7 blade connector at the rear of the MH to work with my TOAD. Or, If I get a new TOAD, then I run the 6 wires to match the MH. I only use 6 wires. There is one good ground, and I find a constant HOT 12v wire at the back of the MH, and connect it to the TOAD to run my Invis-a-brake. My current TOAD has a push button start, so no key to put in the 'accessory' position. One push w/o the brake pedal will unlock the steering, but only for 30 minutes. I had to install a battery disconnect switch to turn all the power off the TOAD after I unlocked the steering. The HOT wire runs the invis-a-brake, and that's all. I ran separate wires for LT, RT, Brake, and Park lights, using diodes. The brake controller wire is for an electric brake controller for a trailer, so it probably will do no good with a TOAD. I've had several 7 blade to 6 pin coiled wires go bad due to corrosion, bad connections, loose wires, etc. I always carry a spare. After you get it wired, check it several times before you hit the road. I've had many gremlins get in the wires and mess things up just as I'm ready to go. Good luck.
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Old 05-20-2021, 09:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jethead007 View Post
Hello

I am looking from some advice on getting a 12V charge line from my 31 ft Class A to my towed Vehicle (Jeep Wrangler). I would like to use the RVi charger since I have already ordered the brake controller. My motorhome has a 7 pin connector at the rear. However, it does not have a 12V charge line connected to the plug. There is a brake controller wire connected to the 7 pin connector which I traced the other end to an unused wires under the dash of the motorhome. In this group of wires, there was a 12V hot wire to power the brake controller (I do not have a brake controller). I connected the 12v wire to the brake controller wire that goes to the plug at the rear of my coach. Under the dash, I measure 12V. However, I barely get any voltage readings (0.03 volts) at the 7 pin connector.

1) Any ideas on how to correct this?

2) Should I give up and run a dedicated 10 or 12 AWG wire to the 7 pin connector from the battery using auto or manual reset CB? Do I also need to run a negative wire all the way back to the 7 pin outlet as well?


Thanks in advance.
Hmmmm,
You say you have a 7 pin connector and, NO 12V charge wire in any of those 7 pins, correct? May I ask, have you checked each and every pin of those 7 pins for function? Typically, what's back there is:

1. T/M (tail/marker, aka "Running lights"
2. R/T brake (that's a combo right turn and brake light pin)
3. LF/T brake (" " " " " " ".....)
4. Ground
5. B/U (back up lights)
6. Brake control wire (typically for electric trailer brakes)
7. 12VDC (hot, either with, or without the ignition HOT)

Many 7 pin plug covers, have a layout of what pin is what, not all of them though. And, not all 7 pin connectors are completely wired, some have empty pins.
Scott
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Old 05-20-2021, 09:46 PM   #4
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You didn't specify your chassis, but some don't supply a 12v hot wire to the trailer connection. I had to run a 10ga wire from the fuse block in the front to the connector in the rear on my Itasca. Both of my last two coaches (Freightliner and Power Glide chassis) came equipped with a hot wire but they were only hot with the key on.
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Old 05-21-2021, 08:02 AM   #5
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follow up info

Thanks for the responses. I have a 2015 Coachmen Pursuit 31BD - Ford Chassis. The 7 pin plug at the back of the RV only has 6 wires coming to it. No 12V hot wire is currently there. My thought was to use the brake controller wire on the plug as a 12V hot wire since I am not using a brake controller. I was going to move that wire to the appropriate pin on the plug and then connect the wires under my dash that was for the brake controller to be my constant 12V power for my battery charger. However, when I do that, I measure 12V under the dash on my meter but only .03V at the rear of the coach. So my plan does not seem to be an option unless I am missing something.

My second option is to run a 12 or 10 guage wire from the battery through 20 amp manual or automatic CB to the 12V constant post on my 7 pin connector. Then run a wire from my 6 pin connector on my Toad - Jeep Wrangler- to another manual or automatic 20 amp CB then into my battery charger. Does this seem correct?

I know other have mentioned just using the 12V line from the coach to directly power my toed brake Controller - RVi3 and disconnect my Toad Battery. However, In a breakaway situation, the RVi would not have any power to apply emergency brakes in this situation. Therefore, I would prefer to keep the Jeep battery connected and wire a charger into the system. With a Jeep Wrangler, there is no requirement to keep the key on since the steering wheel doesn't lock.

Thanks again for your input.
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