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Old 11-30-2016, 06:08 PM   #15
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Had the dead battery problem with our 2014CRV and our 2016 BayStar. Took some advice from the board and replaced the group 51 battery (not much bigger than a lawn tractor battery) with a group 24...need the base plate and shroud for a Odsey, about $20.00 at the dealer. Everything drops right in. I wired a 15 amp fuse at the fuse block under the dash and installed a diode at the battery connection in the CRV to keep the toad battery from supplying the coach fuse block (and all the circuits wired into it). I wired another fuse in the circuit at the CRV just because I had the parts and it is easier to access than the one under the dash of the coach. No more dead battery.
Check out the diode on line...used in vehicle lighting...keeps the toad battery from charging the coach circuits through the 12vdc supply.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:40 PM   #16
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"Mr.D"......I just set up a 2013 CRV for towing. First, the wiring harness with the built-in diodes from Etrailer was a great choice. I Know you have the charge line, but installing the larger battery really gives you piece of mind. I didn't install a charge line on mine, just the bigger battery and we towed some days for 8-10 hours before using the CRV. Never had a battery issue during our nine week trip.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:52 PM   #17
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Are you pulling the fuse outlined in the manual for towing. Friends were having dead battery problems and I helped them install a switch on dash to kill the fuse while towing. They drove over 8 hours and no dead battery.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:34 PM   #18
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x2 on adding switch to remove power to dash
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:47 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by waroland View Post
Are you pulling the fuse outlined in the manual for towing. Friends were having dead battery problems and I helped them install a switch on dash to kill the fuse while towing. They drove over 8 hours and no dead battery.
I have the 2012 CR-V and can't figure out which etrailer/Hopkins part to buy for the disco switch. There seems to be one that has 2 fuses bypassed and one that bypasses a single fuse.

Since my toad didn't come with the owners manual I am not sure which instructions to follow. Any ideas on part # and procedures for setting up to tow it? One fuse or two?

Thanks
Jim
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV-Writer View Post
I have the 2012 CR-V and can't figure out which etrailer/Hopkins part to buy for the disco switch. There seems to be one that has 2 fuses bypassed and one that bypasses a single fuse.



Since my toad didn't come with the owners manual I am not sure which instructions to follow. Any ideas on part # and procedures for setting up to tow it? One fuse or two?



Thanks

Jim

Jim,
As others have said, you do not need to pull any fuses if you go to the larger battery. Pulling the fuse was a band aid, for want of a better word, that Honda came up with to get around the real issue of the undersized battery. The car is actually designed for the group 24 battery as you will see if you choose that route.
In my case, I use the Blueox Patriot braking system which requires a 12V power source so disconnecting the dash power was not an option. After installing the group 24 battery, without pulling a fuse, I can tow for at least two days without unhooking and only starting the car for a few minutes in the AM to lube the transmission and never a dead battery problem. Even powering the Patriot.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waroland View Post
Are you pulling the fuse outlined in the manual for towing. Friends were having dead battery problems and I helped them install a switch on dash to kill the fuse while towing. They drove over 8 hours and no dead battery.
No, which is why the need for a charge line.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Susiedavid View Post
Had the dead battery problem with our 2014CRV and our 2016 BayStar. Took some advice from the board and replaced the group 51 battery (not much bigger than a lawn tractor battery) with a group 24...need the base plate and shroud for a Odsey, about $20.00 at the dealer. Everything drops right in. I wired a 15 amp fuse at the fuse block under the dash and installed a diode at the battery connection in the CRV to keep the toad battery from supplying the coach fuse block (and all the circuits wired into it). I wired another fuse in the circuit at the CRV just because I had the parts and it is easier to access than the one under the dash of the coach. No more dead battery.
Check out the diode on line...used in vehicle lighting...keeps the toad battery from charging the coach circuits through the 12vdc supply.
As I previously said, the '05 Ody battery would go dead without the charge line and it had the larger battery.
What type/size diode did you use? The charge line resetting breaker is a 30 amp.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
Jim,
As others have said, you do not need to pull any fuses if you go to the larger battery. Pulling the fuse was a band aid, for want of a better word, that Honda came up with to get around the real issue of the undersized battery. The car is actually designed for the group 24 battery as you will see if you choose that route.
In my case, I use the Blueox Patriot braking system which requires a 12V power source so disconnecting the dash power was not an option. After installing the group 24 battery, without pulling a fuse, I can tow for at least two days without unhooking and only starting the car for a few minutes in the AM to lube the transmission and never a dead battery problem. Even powering the Patriot.
Thanks Dennis - I will be going that route for sure. Not only for towing reasons but because it just makes sense to have a larger more reliable battery. I didn't want to have my electronics all powered up during towing though. Was hoping the main display would power down after a few minutes. I have the Air Force one so no need for power at all during towing so I figured I would do both. Maybe even add a charge line too love overkill
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:43 AM   #24
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I have towed my 2014 CR-V frequently over the past two year and never had a dead battery. I had the Roadmaster Universal Wiring Kit with 4 Hy-Power Diodes, the FuseMaster and Brake-Lite Relay installed. I use Roadmaster Brakemaster supplemental braking with a break away.

I previously towed a Dodge Caravan and frequently ended up with a dead battery. Since the brake lights would work without the key in, I found that I was using the Caravan's battery everytime the brakemaster was activated. With the Brake-Lite relay, the brake lights are powered by the motorhome. That was the first thing I tested on the Honda.

Now when I am towing, I flip the FuseMaster switch to tow and am not using any of the CR-V's battery power while towing. My last trip I towed the Honda for two days twice. At the end of each of the two day trips, the Honda started with no hesitation.
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Old 12-02-2016, 12:51 PM   #25
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I used a lighting diode rated at something like 80amp...ordered on line it was for parking lighting if I remember correctly. A self resetting breaker will not let you know if you have a short...just keeps resetting. I wired a inline fuse. Newmar installs the charging wires but they are not terminated on either end...I used both orange and black as they were 14ga.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:37 PM   #26
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Right, a resetting breaker just keeps resetting and lets current flow either way that's why I asked about that what rating you used for a diode.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:42 PM   #27
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To wrap this up

I ordered the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring kit and RoadMaster Brake-Lite Relay Kit from etrailer. Ordered a new battery box from Honda and it'll be in tomorrow morning. Plus picked up a 700 CCA battery from Costco.
Will need to relocate the air canister for the RoadMaster 9160 which will take a longer air line and maybe extended wiring.
Will also look for a high amp diode for the charge line and add that in.

If that doesn't take care of it.....................
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