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deputydog · 09-15-2021, 06:47 PM

With the Jeep Grand Cherokee if it has the 3.6L V6 Pentastar engine there is an issue with the roller tappets going bad causing misfiring. To replace them on the drivers side requires removal of the intake plenum before you can get to the valve cover and then removal of both camshafts which is a PIA!
Just had #6 cylinder on my wife's 2014 with 76,000 miles go bad and replaced.
4 tappets per cylinder - parts aren't too bad - about $25 per tappet if I remember correctly but it's about a $500 to $600 labor bill at a decent shop and probably twice that or more at the OEM Stealership.

F4Gary · 09-18-2021, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deputydog

With the Jeep Grand Cherokee if it has the 3.6L V6 Pentastar engine there is an issue with the roller tappets going bad causing misfiring. To replace them on the drivers side requires removal of the intake plenum before you can get to the valve cover and then removal of both camshafts which is a PIA!
Just had #6 cylinder on my wife's 2014 with 76,000 miles go bad and replaced.
4 tappets per cylinder - parts aren't too bad - about $25 per tappet if I remember correctly but it's about a $500 to $600 labor bill at a decent shop and probably twice that or more at the OEM Stealership.

That's pretty reasonable.

deputydog · 09-18-2021, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F4Gary

That's pretty reasonable.

Yeah, problem is we originally thought spark plug or coil. Removed the intake and replaced all plugs and the #6 coil. Unfortunately no way to test it without reassembling everything. You guessed it - MIL light came on in less than 10 miles

so it's back to the shop and start over. Total bill was about $1200 - $1300. Still not bad since the plugs were about ready - just bad deal that had to tear it apart twice.

F4Gary · 09-19-2021, 09:33 AM

You have to remove the intake to change the spark plugs? Yikes.

deputydog · 09-19-2021, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F4Gary

You have to remove the intake to change the spark plugs? Yikes.

On the left bank, (cylinders 2,4,6) YES! And it's not an easy task to remove it. Extremely hard to get to some of the bolts and one hose near impossible to get off. I got it all disconnected except for the rear hose and decided that if I took it off I didn't know if I could get it back on so I buttoned it back up and paid somebody to do it.

F4Gary · 09-19-2021, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deputydog

On the left bank, (cylinders 2,4,6) YES! And it's not an easy task to remove it. Extremely hard to get to some of the bolts and one hose near impossible to get off. I got it all disconnected except for the rear hose and decided that if I took it off I didn't know if I could get it back on so I buttoned it back up and paid somebody to do it.

Aren't the plugs below and outside the valve covers? Down by the exhaust manifold? The opposite side of the head as the intake?
Just trying to get a picture in my mind.

deputydog · 09-19-2021, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F4Gary

Aren't the plugs below and outside the valve covers? Down by the exhaust manifold? The opposite side of the head as the intake?
Just trying to get a picture in my mind.

Nope - they go down between the two overhead cams dead center in the top of the valve cover which is under the intake manifold/plenum.

This video at about 3min 45" shows a good view of removing the valve cover which was under the plenum. See the light bluish tubes - those are the spark plug wells.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AArVGmQlgfk

By the way, aren't you on the C172 forum??

F4Gary · 09-20-2021, 01:04 PM

Gotcha. I didn't realize it was a DOHC engine.
No, I've never been on that forum.

ga traveler · 09-20-2021, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deputydog

The "rattling" you refer to is the variable valve timing and is basically a mechanism on the end of the cam shaft that allows the timing to be changed mechanically by changing the orientation of the timing chain gear relative to the camshaft (advances or retards the cam relative to the crankshaft)

I have a 2014 that I bought last year and I really like it for a toad and runabout for my local driving. Gets decent gas mileage (average 24 mpg combo city/road and will do over 30 on the road at 75 mph)

Mine is also an EX-L with NAV.

The rattle didn't appear on mine until it got cold. Then you will hear it when it's been sitting overnight in temps in the 40's °F then it will rattle for the first few seconds when it starts.

Mine has a lifetime powertrain warranty so every time I take it in I tell them that the VVT is rattling and every time they say they can't duplicate it in the shop (because it never gets cold) and I tell them to just put it on the report so when it breaks down they can't say I didn't tell them about it. It's a known problem but other than that I can't say anything bad about it.

Oh yeah, the a/c compressor cycles excessively in my opinion (and I've worked on a LOT of car a/c's) but every one I have driven does the same thing and so far no issues. It cools great - it must have a good clutch to do that much cycling (but I'm only at 55,000 miles)

Great little car & toad.

I have a 2014 CRV. Could you explain the lifetime drivetrain warrenty.