Community Forums

rmueller · 05-29-2019, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DariusB

Just trying to help the OP to understand there is not a lot of hacking required...which WAS basically the original question!

Yep, agreed. If you do the research, get the right base plate, just a bit of plastic cutting is all that is necessary. Good call @DariusB.

I started the disassembly yesterday, not a big deal.

Now just planning the install of the SMI box, much heavier than I expected. I saw a video with it mounted on top of the fuse box, I don't think that's a great idea.

I'm going to mount it just right of center on the back of the aluminum bumper. Have to find the right fasteners, stainless and aluminum cause a galvanic reaction; so using a self taping screw is not a good idea.

I think I'll use aluminum pop rivets, there is no reason to move/remove the box once installed and working. Still have to isolate the metal box, I'll use a thin piece of rubber behind it and plastic washers on the rivets.

Ron.

dcgettinby · 05-30-2019, 08:04 AM

Ron, you might want to check your bumper material. Mine is definitely NOT aluminum. A magnet is a very quick, very easy, definitive test. And, if you think about it, aluminum would not be a good choice for a bumper anyway.

Bikinjim · 05-30-2019, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcgettinby

Ron, you might want to check your bumper material. Mine is definitely NOT aluminum. A magnet is a very quick, very easy, definitive test. And, if you think about it, aluminum would not be a good choice for a bumper anyway.

At least for the pre 2019 models, the Trailhawk had a steel bumper and the other versions had an aluminum bumper.

rmueller · 05-30-2019, 08:10 PM

Yep, definitely aluminum. And I agree, not a great choice, but I'm sure it was tested to be safe.

The biggest issue now is the stainless bolts that came with the Roadmaster kit to replace the zinc coated OEM bolts. I put plastic isolators under the washers to eliminate the possibility of corrosion.

Might have to change my mind on mounting the SMI to the bumper.

After looking over the SMI box a bit closer, it has gaps on the long sides of the box that are about 1/8" so, if it was on the inside of the bumper it would definitely get water in it. Not sure it that's ok or not, gotta call Demco tomorrow to check.

I'm not going to put it not the fuse box, so the only other place that it looks like it will fit is on the motor cover. Kinda sucks to have to drill a few holes and cover up the Jeep logo. But, that's probably the best place overall. I'm planning on driving this thing into the ground so I can live with it.

Ron

dcgettinby · 05-31-2019, 06:16 AM

Rather than drilling holes anywhere to mount the towed box, you might consider using velcro with adhesive tape. This is the approach shown in the Demco AF1 installation video, and I'm confident it will work, provided mating surfaces are properly cleaned before putting down adhesive tape.

rmueller · 05-31-2019, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcgettinby

Rather than drilling holes anywhere to mount the towed box, you might consider using velcro with adhesive tape. This is the approach shown in the Demco AF1 installation video, and I'm confident it will work, provided mating surfaces are properly cleaned before putting down adhesive tape.

Just talked with Demco, good news...the box is completely ok getting wet (not submerged necessarily) but it can get wet. So, the bumper mount is back in play. I have two aluminum 90deg angle brackets, that will screw into the bumper with zinc coated screws and then I'll be able to mount the box to the brackets with stand-offs.

They also said that they are re-designing the box so the screws aren't protruding on the bottom...at least they take customer feedback seriously. To add, the tech said that those screws secure a strap for the pump and could be moved to the side so the bottom could be flat again.

I think the bumper mounting is looking like a good choice.

I could mount it upside down on the fuse box, but I don't want to look like 'that guy' who couldn't figure out up from down...

Ron

rmueller · 05-31-2019, 08:04 PM

I finished the SMI control box mounting, went with the bumper location. It will definitely see at bit of weather when driving, but the Demco tech assured me it wasn't an issue.

Box is mounted with aluminum brackets, secured with zinc coated screws (don't use stainless they will react with aluminum). I decided to use the screws vs the rivets just to be able to get it off (if it has issues) without removing the fascia.

Fascia is back on, looks pretty good. All lines are clean, snapped right back to where it was. You can definitely tell that Jeep and these base plate manufacturers work together so this is possible.

Next, I have to finish the wiring and the SMI actuator mount.

rmueller · 06-01-2019, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FLSteve

Here is my story ... based on using a blue ox base plate. Came out better than I was thinking it would. Just miss the red OME tow hooks.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/buyin...ml#post4747303

FLSteve

I saw a post or video somewhere, that showed Red tow hooks on a base plate pin...brings the look back to factory even with the base plate mod.

I didn't find it with a Google search this morning, I'm pretty sure it was a YouTube...I'll keep looking and post if I find it again.

Ron

FLSteve · 06-01-2019, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmueller

I saw a post or video somewhere, that showed Red tow hooks on a base plate pin...brings the look back to factory even with the base plate mod.

I didn't find it with a Google search this morning, I'm pretty sure it was a YouTube...I'll keep looking and post if I find it again.

Ron

I will start looking as well. Thanks for posting the idea.

FLSteve

rmueller · 06-01-2019, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FLSteve

I will start looking as well. Thanks for posting the idea.

FLSteve

Found it...

https://rvlove.com/2018/04/12/our-to...g-up-jeep-tow/

Scroll down...

I also saw some guys on jeepcherokeeclub.com using large d-rings painted red.

And then there is comedian in the group...scroll down to post 19.

If it's purely a cosmetic effect, you could probably do some creative plastic pipe bending with a torch.

Again, if it's purely cosmetic, then 3D print a set. That would cure two issues, plugging the hole and restoring the look.

Ron

FLSteve · 06-02-2019, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmueller

Found it...

https://rvlove.com/2018/04/12/our-to...g-up-jeep-tow/

Scroll down...

This is exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. I am going to see if I can make this work for me as I do have an extra pair of tow pins. Now just need to find a friend that welds.

Thanks for finding and posting this.

FLSteve

rmueller · 06-03-2019, 11:05 AM

OK, another weekend in the garage installing the SMI unit and finishing the wiring.

Something interesting to know if have a newer model Jeep and want to use the SMI unit...There is a step to connect the SMI LED indicator to the 'dead' side of the brake switch (the switch is a mechanical indication of the brake pedal being applied).

I was lucky in the sense that I could reach the connect but I couldn't get it off (its way up under the dash at the top of the brake pedal arm). I backed off until I could call Demco and ask them if there was a better approach (as their manual indicates you should do -it says call them to ask about this step if you have problems)...so I did.

Well, turns out, in newer models, the power to that switch is only on for a few minutes after the car is turned off, so basically while towing it's completely useless!

The Demco tech also said to connect their LED indicator to the 'blue' wire coming off the breakaway switch. The blue wire sees power when the SMI unit is applying the brakes via the actuator. That's good to know, but it doesn't cover the issue where the actuator fails, or gets stuck and your brake pedal is down when the MH isn't applying the brakes.

The only indication of the actuator failing with that setup will be burned up overheated brakes or flat spots on your tires when you arrive (assuming they don't fall off beforehand)....neither is desirable.

Only one choice to indicate the brakes pedal has moved, add a second switch (there are kits available).

I'll probably go with both the kit, the blue wire connection and add a second LED indicator. The one on the blue wire will tell me if the SMI is working, and the second will indicate the position of the brake pedal.

The other issue, which requires another kit, is the turn signal can be overridden by the brake signal. Without a relay kit, the combined nature of the brake and turn signal to the toad lighting will won't indicate (flash) a turn signal with the brakes on.

The moral of the story is that while the instructions are pretty good for a self install, if you don't understand how this all works or if you do and you see a problem...you should call the manufactures and ask questions. The techs I've talked to at Demco, Roadmaster and eTrailer.com are outstanding and very easy to deal with.

Ron

rmueller · 06-03-2019, 05:39 PM

This is the device that fits a 2019 Cherokee Limited. https://www.etrailer.com/p-RM-751471.html

Basically, a bracket and a switch that indicates the brake pedal arm has moved.

Ron

DariusB · 06-13-2019, 05:03 PM

Agree 100% about the videos on e-trailer being a big help but still lacking on some very important points. I would much rather hear a description and then see performed taking off the facia of the cherokee than watch so many "wire end strippings". There ARE many "little" things that could be pointed out like where to pry, better routing ideas, how to determine which wires in the Jeep harness activate which function, i.e. what is left turn, right turn, brake. The mention the colors but my vehicle was opposite/different than the ones they defined in the video. Some DIYer's may not know how to determine that info. A discussion about the "combined" brake/turn light issue would have saved me some hair pulling as well.

All in all, it was a fairly simple install with the toughest part just the disassembly and the routing of everything once you locate the brain box.
I did not bother installing the brake light indicator LED on the toad rear view mirror. There is no way I would see it unless at night perhaps. The glare on the windshield is such that the backup camera cannot filter it out so I see very little inside the toad through the camera. I will be running something to the cab of the RV.