Air Force One toad brake indicator light

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by FlaRider

I am going to hard wire it the the dash of the coach. The only reason I want to wire two lights is that we are still shopping for a RV and I am getting the jeep set up to be towed, so I wanted to install the AFO light until I have the time to wire coach.

Now I understand. FYI. The LED strip with the AF1 is intended for remote viewing from your RV rear view camera. That is why the instructions suggest mounting the LED strip on the dash. Other than that, there is no reason for a break light indicator in the towed. That is the reason I chose to go the way Crankshaft suggested. Running a wire the length of your soon to be RV will not be pleasant but is doable, just to see the break lights come on through the action of the AF1, is a lot of on the ground back work IMO.

Rick Y

[gnlandrus]

I just finished installing a AF1 brake system and a blue ox base plate on our Cadillac SRX. Decided to go with the wireless system that crankshaft described. Works GREAT. Took a little time for me to figure out how to use it with the reed switch on the brake pedal air actuator, but figured it out and it works really well.
Just got back from a 2000 mile trip and it worked flawlessly.
When I get a chance, I'm going to retrofit my F150 with the same setup.
Greg

[StuartS]

I'm using the extra wire that Newmar runs to the under dash area from the 7 pin plug on the back of the coach. This wire can be used for a trailer brake but I am using it for a dash indicator for my AF1.

My biggest useful reason for the indicator light on the dash, & as per techs at SMI, is to know that the light GOES OFF showing me that the toad brake has released.

[DrDaveMA]

I took a different approach, I cut a small piece of Lexan with a hole large enough to fit over the ambient light sensor (to hold the Lexan in place).

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by StuartS

I'm using the extra wire that Newmar runs to the under dash area from the 7 pin plug on the back of the coach. This wire can be used for a trailer brake but I am using it for a dash indicator for my AF1.

My biggest useful reason for the indicator light on the dash, & as per techs at SMI, is to know that the light GOES OFF showing me that the toad brake has released.

Stuart, this concept escapes this old man. At what point are you observing the jeep dash AF1 indicator? You have to be in the vehicle to see it. As soon as you step on the break peddle you will know if it feel normal or not. Please clarify this for me. Thanks.

Rick Y

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by DrDaveMA

I took a different approach, I cut a small piece of Lexan with a hole large enough to fit over the ambient light sensor (to hold the Lexan in place).
Attachment 157527
Attachment 157528

I hope your rear view camera is good enough to give you a clear view of the light. I found on bright sunny days mine was not when I had the light mounted back at the hitch.

It came to me, when I was noodling this topic out for my situation, that the times I really needed to know if the breaks were working, at a glance, were when I was in traffic and really busy in the drivers seat. On my last trip I had no problem seeing that the breaks on the towed were working. But, I am old and not as quick as some of the other folks using the AF1. Having a visual indicator of some sort is much better than blind trust.

Rick Y

[Dutch Star Don]

I've always liked hard wiring things that can be hardwired. No signal issues or batteries to be replaced. I've had the SMI AF1 on two coaches and five vehicles over the years. I've always had an indicator on the dash. When I first connect, I can tell, just by pushing the coach brake that my brakes in my toad are functioning. Every time I stop hard enough to engage the toad brakes, I get the light, telling me that nothing has come loose or broken while driving. Since the wire for the brake light indicator is part of my 6 wire umbilical, I can reasonably know that my lights are still working too.

I've towed 4 trucks over the years and one CRV. I found when towing the CRV, the indicator light was coming on at the mere touch of the coach brake pedal. Over the next few days of towing, I kept an eye on the CRV front wheels and saw some excessive brake dust. This let me know that I needed to loosen the pull cable under the dash.

Here is a photo of the indicator light on my old Diplomat (center of picture). I installed the same light in my Dutch Star. It's small, flush mounted, unobtrusive and bright. You can buy them on Amazon.



https://www.amazon.com/Pink-Lizard-P...dicator+lights

[Safetysteve5]

I use the AF1 system also with a 2015 Ford Explorer. I tapped into the wire that goes to the toad brake lights from the toad brake pedal switch. Ran this wire from the toad thru the 7 pin connector (used an unused pin) to the coach dash and installed a red LED light. When this LED light comes on I know the toad brake pedal has actually moved. I wired a separate light harness & bulbs for the toad tail lights so when I hit the coach brakes the aux. tail lights come on, then as the brakes are applied more firmly (AF1 proportional braking) the toad brakes activate and the toads own brake lights come on also. This requires a long wire run to the coach dash but it is simply the way I wanted to do this. Works well.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Safetysteve5

I use the AF1 system also with a 2015 Ford Explorer. I tapped into the wire that goes to the toad brake lights from the toad brake pedal switch. Ran this wire from the toad thru the 7 pin connector (used an unused pin) to the coach dash and installed a red LED light. When this LED light comes on I know the toad brake pedal has actually moved. I wired a separate light harness & bulbs for the toad tail lights so when I hit the coach brakes the aux. tail lights come on, then as the brakes are applied more firmly (AF1 proportional braking) the toad brakes activate and the toads own brake lights come on also. This requires a long wire run to the coach dash but it is simply the way I wanted to do this. Works well.

Works for you. Confirms the old saying, "There's always another way to skin a cat."

The model coach I have didn't leave a spare wire in the tow harness. Running a wire to the dash from the rear is a big pain, especially for an old duffer like me. The FOB remote is the better option in this case. Did you install the relay on the coach to activate the toad break lights when the engine break operates?

[Safetysteve5]

No I didn't need to. I installed separate tail light bulbs in the toad tail light housings that are connected directly to the coach 7 pin tail light connections (like trailer wiring). When the coach brake/tail lights come on (brakes or engine brake) these separate bulbs illuminate with them. The toad's stock brake light bulbs ALSO come on when the toad brakes are actually activated by the AF1 system. I wired mine this way because of all the electronics. The only tie to the toad electrical is 1) a hot wire to the battery for the AF1 system and 2) the wire tied into the toad brake light wire. I also have a charge line from the coach to the toad battery. There are many solutions, I was just sharing mine.

[jerichorick]

I finished building and testing the FOB & remote receiver for a friend. Here are a few pictures of this project. The 2 prong trailer plug in the car is the break sw connection to the FOB. Velcro is holding the FOB on the windshield post. The arrows are pointing to where the LED connects. The jumper is from +12V to COM. The leads are attached to a 12V lighter plug.

[lass]

Originally Posted by StuartS

I'm using the extra wire that Newmar runs to the under dash area from the 7 pin plug on the back of the coach. This wire can be used for a trailer brake but I am using it for a dash indicator for my AF1.

My biggest useful reason for the indicator light on the dash, & as per techs at SMI, is to know that the light GOES OFF showing me that the toad brake has released.

StuartS, I ordered a couple of LED panel lights and plan on doing the same as yours. Is the wire under the dash identified and is it terminated?